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When to "call it quits"?

lightngsvt

CEG'er
Joined
Oct 12, 2003
Messages
52
Im at a point where Im wondering if it is time to move on and sell my 98.5 CSVT. I have had the car over 4 years as a DD and it has treated me well, it currently has 98k miles and overall (except the head light lenses) the car looks excellent for its age inside and out. Realistically the car is only worth ~$3000 - $3500 now, but I have some pricey reapirs looming:

$1000- Replace rear calipers, parking brake cables, pads, rotors + labor
$800- BAT struts/springs + labor (mine are original and rear springs are cracked)
$150- Replace rear toe control arm + labor
$400- tires (in spring)
$200-500- A/C repair (not currently functioning but compressor still tries to cycle)
$220- strut bearings, alignment, balance and rotate tires
$400- rust repair at door seams (starting to get some bubbling at the lower seams, not bad still repairable)

So Im looking at repairs that are the cost of what the car is worth, almost. I like the car and not sure I could replace it with any equivalent for under $15k. Its just crappy timing with Christmas and all. So shoudl I stick it out and keep the CSVT for another year or 2 and spend the cash or would you move on?
 
I would keep it! Your car will never retain it's value, it's just how much you value your car. I love my SVT and until I don't I will continue to replace the things needed to keep my baby runnin! Keep it in my opinion or pay car payments again? LOL!
 
Most of those things are maintenance items, which is reasonable for a car of this age and mileage. With those done you'll have a car running in tip-top shape for much less money than a new car.

Now, if the car is becoming unreliable and you have had many unexpected repairs recently, that would be the time to get rid of it IMO.

I don't know where you live, but you may have some CEGers nearby that would be willing to help you out with the easier of those repairs. For example, the brakes/calipers are not that difficult and you can save a ton in labor.
 
I vote you keep it too. As stated, those prices seem a little inflated and some of the repairs you could tackle yourself if you were so inclined. Even sinking 3k into it, you'll be saving compared to getting something newer.
 
Actually I dont think any of the estimates are that outrageous except for the rear barke work. I think they are a little crazy:

$374- both rear calipers w/ pads
$220- parking brake cables (!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?)
$74- both rear rotors
$332- labor

Any idea what I could pick these parts up for myself? I could do the calipers and rotors / pads myself but I absolutely HATE working out in the cold and its been inthe 20's lately.

THe rest isnt bad, $120 to install struts/springs, tires are priced from Tire Rack, A/C repair starts at $65 and can get expensive quick, $75-100 per door to strip the sealant, sand blast it, prime and repaint and the rest is just guessing.

Maybe I should just keep the car, its been good so far, it looks like a much newer car than it is and its cheaper than a new car.
 
the strut bearing get done when you do the struts..so no labor there,the rotation...why? you need new tires anyways:shrug: alingment, four wheel,i wouldnt pay more than 60 dollars for.
bottom door rust..inside edge? grind it(gently) than put a wire wheel on the grinder or angle grinder. self ethcing primer,sealer primer than get duplicolor touch up spray paint to match your color code. even if you dont have the tools 40 bucks will get you all you need.
-again,were are you located? if your blessed w/being in the egl region,you have it made.
 
I saw your car today. The guy was actually shocked at how much it was going to cost you to fix the parking brake. Brakes are easy to fix. Buy the parts and do it yourself. The parking brake cable I'm not as sure about. might be a PIA.
 
Actually I dont think any of the estimates are that outrageous except for the rear barke work. I think they are a little crazy:

$374- both rear calipers w/ pads
$220- parking brake cables (!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?)
$74- both rear rotors
$332- labor

...

Parking brake cables (just the rear portions) are $55 each (you need two :blackeye: ) from www.teamfordparts.com
The labor to install is $220.

I spent approximately $2,700 this year on maintenance and repairs and the car is only worth $1,000. I anticipate ending out the year with 25K miles of driving, which makes it about 11 cents per mile, which is still much cheaper than a new car with payments, increased insurance, personal property tax and maintenance (I calculated that to be something like 25 to 30 cents per mile). I think you won't "feel" it as much if you plan for it. I plan (budget) $3,000 every year for maintenance and repairs.

The important question to ask yourself is, "Do I still enjoy driving the car?". If the answer is yes, then it is still worth repairing the car.
 
Im in SE Michigan so I think there are CEG'ers here .

Yeah, maybe a couple. :laugh:

Like everyone else has said, if you do it yourself, you could almost cut those prices in half (total). There is a how to for almost every one of those items somewhere here on the boards, or the old boards. Check out the Branches forum, I'm sure someone has a garage they wouldn't mind letting you use, and many of them wuold pitch in to help, too.
 
Usually when you buy the Ebrake cables from Ford they come as a set... That's my experience anyhow. I think I paid about $50 for my ebrake cables. You could get the calipers this way as well from either Bill Jenkins or Steve at Tousley Ford. The ebrake cables really aren't that bad either. You have to lower your exhaust and remove the heat shield above it. Really not much to it otherwise.

So you could probably do the entire brake job if you're somewhat mechanically inclined ;)
 
I saw your car today. The guy was actually shocked at how much it was going to cost you to fix the parking brake. Brakes are easy to fix. Buy the parts and do it yourself. The parking brake cable I'm not as sure about. might be a PIA.

Do you work at Auto Lab? The guy called me back today to say they lowered the price a couple hundred, but I havent called him back yet. Given what parts cost online I think Ill order them myself and either have them installed or just do it myself, this doesnt seem like a $1000 job!
 
I looked up the parts needed on RockAuto.com and was shocked to find that even paying a core charge I could get all the parts for around $290!!!! Are these the correct parts:

*Rear Rotors- RAYBESTOS Part # 66584R More Info {Professional Grade Outside Diameter 9.96" / 4 Bolt Holes / Vented}
Rear $13.96 /ea
*Rear Caliper- MOTORCRAFT Part # BRC141RM {remanufactured #F8RZ2V553AARM}
Un-Loaded; Rear Left $79.79 (+$40core)
*Rear Caliper- MOTORCRAFT Part # BRC142RM {remanufactured #F8RZ2V552AARM}
Un-Loaded; Rear Right $79.79 (+$40 core)
*Rear Pad- MOTORCRAFT Part # BR66B {#1U2Z2V200GA}
w/o Wear Sensor; Standard Premium Pad; Organic; Integrally Molded; Rear $34.79
*Parking Brake Cables- (x2) RAYBESTOS Part # BC95736 More Info {58 31/50" Overall Length}
Rear; Front Disc Brakes; Rear Disc Brakes; 2 Per Car $28.79 /ea

So that is $359 for parts ($279 after core refund) + shipping compared to the original estimate. Just out of convenience I might have it done for $550, but $1000 makes my eyes water!

I have not been budgeting any money for repairs on this car because honestly it has been very reliable. So far all Ive done in 4 years is pull the intakes for cleaning, tires/wheels (ST200), plugs and Magnecore wires, fuel filter and 1- complete brake job (I had the rears done because it was this time of year but did the fronts myself) and 2- A/C recharge's. Overall thats damn good for 4 years! So I guess I was due for some bigger repair/maintenance. I do like the car but dont like the thought of pouring $2500 into, although the BAT struts/springs should make a nice difference over the stock setup at almost 100k miles.

Off topic, do you guys know anything about the Jag X-Type? Isnt it built on the Mondeo platform? I found a 2003 X-Type 2.5 / 5-speed Sport pkg with 59k miles for a really good price at a local dealer. Maint. items like brakes, suspension, etc dont seem to be anymore than the Contour. Are these cars reliable and fun to drive like a Contour?
 
I spent a large sum at about the 100K mark doing the entire suspension, bushings, all engine and tranny mounts, belts, water pump, temperature sensor, all fluid changes, even new headlight housings and the rubber strips in the roof, etc. My car is spectacular. She runs wonderfully, and I enjoy her greatly. :cool:
 
the jag is JUST like the contour..in that build quality is questionable...at best. the 2.5 has 190 hp,so similar to the svt,but iirc its a bit heavier. so it would prob. perform more like a se:shrug:
 
They got the price down to $800 but thats still a lot. Are the parts I listed above correct for the CSVT?
 
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