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Boiling coolant

A

ancientsanskrit

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Dec 6, 2003
Messages
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Location
Dallas, TX
This is for my mother's 98SE (113k miles, atx).

It's a long story so bare with me. The driver's window regulator is shot so she can't open the window. Coupled this w/ a leak in the A/C system; the car gets hot as hell in the driver's seat (in the summer). I tried to find the leak a couple of years ago w/the flurorescent dye method and was unsuccessful. So for the past two years, I have been recharging the A/C w/two cans of refrigerant every summer and it seems to be fine for the season.

So I recharged it this weekend, and kept the A/C full blast while charging and driving it. When I came home, I double checked everything and while doing so noticed that her coolant in the reservoir was boiling. :blackeye:

So here's my game plan:

1.) Check WP
2.) Check thermostat
3.) Leak? Pressurized test- I've heard of this but have no clue how it works or how one goes about doing this.
4.) Fan is crapping out???

(If I'm missing something, please please point out!)

The first two I'm confident I can do myself, but the last two options, I have no experience in whatsoever.

As always, thanks guys!
 
I noticed the coolant does seem to boil in the reserve tank, after the thermostat opens. Both my family's Mystiques do this. I compared after noticing that when I changed out the shattered waterpump in my Mystique. Should not boil over and leak out of the reserve tank though. The engine cooling fans will triggger (low speed) if the a/c is on or the engine temperature reaches over the M on the scale for a few minutes. The engine temp should drop and the heater should work if the waterpump is OK. If it's never been changed, it will be time for a new waterpump. You can test the fans separately if you need to. (I can provide a test, from home where I have site postings saved) Check the two fans turn smoothly when car is off/cold if you can get at them. The a/c leak could be the accumulator tank which is near the battery. I had my compressor leak from the case o-ring. Soap bubbles (dish soap solution) may help you find the leak. I used a leak detector and dye, soap really found it.
 
If it a V6 you may have a water pump problem. This problem was mostly gone before the 98 model year but could still happen. On the earlier ones, the plastic impeller inside the pump would crack and not pump.

The test is that if it is the water pump, the heater will not get hot. If it is the thermostat stuck shut the heater will deliver hot air.
 
Well, I forgot to provide some information. She did have the black plastic impellar wp. I replaced this w/a metallic impellar around 55k miles (Been on for almost 60k miles). I guess I could double check if it is functioning correctly.

I think the gentleman above Jim has the right idea regarding testing of the fan, since I'm reluctant to believe the metallic wp is the culprit. Nonetheless, I'll give that a glance this weekend.

Actually, upon further talk w/her, her coolant hasn't been changed out in a while. I'm going to give that a go as well this weekend.

Anyways, thanks for the help guys.
 
Full Fan test described in this post FANS Note only jumper one relay at a time (remove low speed, test, if OK reinstall) then do with high speed. Glad to help if you have more questions.
 
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