• Welcome to the Contour Enthusiasts Group, the best resource for the Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique.

    You can register to join the community.

Are these good rotors?

milleniahead

CEG'er
Joined
May 29, 2008
Messages
208
Location
Jersey
http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brak...our+SVT&autoYear=1999&autoModClar=&perfCode=A


cryostop_rotor.jpg



i wanted to get the brembos but they dont have fronts anymore...
 
I now see.. Im saying tho, the other rotors on the page have more than 4 holes as well...

It says its fits.. I dunno. Tirerack usually is good with stuff like that.
 
they dont have them at tirerack anymore (the fronts)

and with ebay it takes like 2 or 3 weeks b4 I get anything shipped because im not a steady buyer/seller.. I only sold like 2 things on ebay and bought maybe 2 more things..

Tryin to get everything done asap and tirerack ships things to my door in 3 maybe 4 days tops.. car hit 200k yesterday and i want to give her, her gifts lolll

If its a quality product then whats the difference? My guess is that Brembo is just proven?
 
Centrix are proven as well. I have always liked Brembo blanks because of how beefy they are compared to any other blank I've seen.
 
I'd say the centric blanks are as good as the brembos. I work with a guy who has brembo brakes and replaced his rotors with centrics because they were cheaper and easier for us to get. So far they have lasted a lot longer than the stock brembos.
 
They were the stock brembo brakes. He has done several track events on the current rotors. He has mostly used autozone pads on the centrics, but he has also used ebc yellow and hp+ on them too. They are on the out, but it wouldn't be unsafe to go to the track this weekend with them.

Edit: I forgot to mention that I'm pretty sure there was certain amount of ablasion that helped the rotors last so long.
 
They were the stock brembo brakes. He has done several track events on the current rotors. He has mostly used autozone pads on the centrics, but he has also used ebc yellow and hp+ on them too. They are on the out, but it wouldn't be unsafe to go to the track this weekend with them.

Edit: I forgot to mention that I'm pretty sure there was certain amount of ablasion that helped the rotors last so long.

I assume they were the "brembo licensed" nissan brakes? And what do you mean by ablasion? Abrasion?
 
I thought stock brembo brakes use brembo rotors. Maybe I'm wrong. I know they use a pad manufactured by companies like ferodo. I did mean ablasion. Check it out here. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ablation

Dont confuse Brembo brakes with the Brembo licensed stuff you see on mass produced cars to make their brakes seem fancier.

And ablation doesnt really apply nor would it make rotors last longer. Driving it easier or using gentler pads would.
 
Ablation is what happens when you bed in new brakes. You accelerate to around 70 mph and then you slow down really fast to about 10 mph. You repeat this process another 2-5 times to allow the rotors and pads to get up to around maximum operating temp. This process builds up brake pad material on the rotor. This process is ablation. If pad material is being put on the rotor, it is essentially not wearing out. That's baisicly what I was getting at in my origional post. It doesn't really apply as much as a car that only sees street duties as compared to a car that sees plenty of motorsports. I didn't intend on getting into geek jargon. It just happened. Sorry. You are most certainly right about the softer pads and less aggressive driving. I don't think that route is going to happen for me until I get old. Until then I'll continue to buy brakes almost as fast as I buy tires. Don't try this at home kids. It's expensive.
 
Ablation is what happens when you bed in new brakes. You accelerate to around 70 mph and then you slow down really fast to about 10 mph. You repeat this process another 2-5 times to allow the rotors and pads to get up to around maximum operating temp. This process builds up brake pad material on the rotor. This process is ablation.

You're describing bedding. Ablation has to do with surgery or glaciers, neither of which apply here.
 
Dont confuse Brembo brakes with the Brembo licensed stuff you see on mass produced cars to make their brakes seem fancier.

And ablation doesnt really apply nor would it make rotors last longer. Driving it easier or using gentler pads would.

Hehe, I can't wait to see you get smacked down for this one, lol. I'm not even gonna do it. I'm gonna let someone else that knows even more about brakes than I do have the honor, lol.

Ablation is what happens when you bed in new brakes. You accelerate to around 70 mph and then you slow down really fast to about 10 mph. You repeat this process another 2-5 times to allow the rotors and pads to get up to around maximum operating temp. This process builds up brake pad material on the rotor. This process is ablation. If pad material is being put on the rotor, it is essentially not wearing out. That's baisicly what I was getting at in my origional post. It doesn't really apply as much as a car that only sees street duties as compared to a car that sees plenty of motorsports. I didn't intend on getting into geek jargon. It just happened. Sorry. You are most certainly right about the softer pads and less aggressive driving. I don't think that route is going to happen for me until I get old. Until then I'll continue to buy brakes almost as fast as I buy tires. Don't try this at home kids. It's expensive.

Sorry goumba, you are using the term completely incorrectly. While some ablation does occur during brake use (it is somewhat an erosive process in the wear of the pad and the rotor) the redeposition of pad material on the rotor is the complete opposite of ablation. Further, the transfer layer of pad material on the rotor most certainly does not prevent rotor wear.
Most likely the difference in rotor life on your friend's nissan was more related to the different pad materials used than the rotors themselves.
 
Back
Top