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More Troubles for the SVT

sweetsvt

CEG'er
Joined
Oct 23, 2005
Messages
119
Location
Brighton, MA
In the last couple of years I've had about three instances where my 99CSVT would not start. I would let it sit for a night and then it would start right up without any issues. Last night, it was raining and I went for a drive. The car started up great and drove very well. When I pulled off the highway, and stopped at a light, there was some minor bucking and the rpm were jumping all over the place. I then went to a store and when I came out the car didn't start. I hit the gas pedal once, tried to start again and it came on, but with the same rough idle problem and this time a CEL came on as well. A few hours later I drove again and it kept bucking during idle. This morning I was going to take it to auto zone to get my CEL read, but it wouldn't start. There is turn over, and at times it feels like it catches, but then nothing. Any ideas that what this might be? I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow, but I have a feeling they are going to have their way with me and charge an astronomical fee. Maybe it's time to get a WRX.
 
Water may have got into the PCM or Upper O2 sensors. Pick up an OBDII reader for $50. Read the codes and post.
 
Thanks for the response Tony. It finally started up this evening, but there is still hesitation during idle. I'm going to take it to the stealership tomorrow and hopefully they'll take care of it. What does PCM stand for?
 
Powertrain Control Module
and the stealership will probably "hook you up good", I agree with tony. go and get yourself a cheap code reader and just post the codes you'll get a response. good luck
 
The dealer will charge about $75 to $100 to read codes that Autozone or Advance will do free of charge. To diagnose the problem, they will spend another hour ($75 to $100 per hour) or two. However, they will probably be able to figure out the problem easily with all their "gadgets and gizmos". And then the labor and parts cost. You could be looking at $400 to $500 for something which might cost you $100 to $200 to do it yourself.

As mentioned, drive to Autozone or Advance, get the codes read and post the exact codes. If you want to invest in something good, get the new Actron 9180 for $200 (live data and freeze frames) or the Actron 9175 for $150 (freeze frames).

If all you want to do is get the codes read, there are some very good code readers from $50 to $80 (Actron 9135). But then you can get it done free at Advance or Autozone.
 
Having the CEL code is good. But it is only a first step. With a CEL code, sometimes it could be 10 to 15 items which could be causing the code to register.

With Freeze frames, it shows what the engine or sensors were doing at the time the code was set. This will help narrow down the issues which could cause the code to set.

With live data (or PIDs-Parameter Identification Data), you can have a few minutes worth of data showing what the engine or sensors were doing before and after the code is set. Armed with those info, it is easier to figure out what is causing the problem.
 
Thanks again. I'm gonna get the dealer to fix it, but will definitely get a good code reader too. I just don't want to pay $200 for the reader, $100 - $200 to fix it and then find out I did something wrong. After this, if I get anymore CEL's I'll be able to diagnose, and hopefully fix problems on my own. Thanks again Tony and I will post back after I get word from the dealer.
 
I'm sure everyone will tell me how stupid I was for taking my car to the dealer, but I finally got it back and $1200 later it's running like new. I guess I kept the mechanic pretty busy because Ford had my car from Tuesday morning to Friday afternoon. Here's what was done:

1. Diagnosis
2. Multipoint Inspection
3. Replace DPFE Sensor
4. Replace intake gaskets + UIM & LIM cleaning
5. Replace IAC
6. Program PCM
7. Throttle Body Service
8. Replace PCV Valve
9. Clean EGR Passages
10. Replace Broken Vac Lines
11. PA State Emission Test - Pass
12. PA State Inspection - Pass

I don't know if I could have done these things on my own, but it's a little late at this point. Guess I gotta learn how to work on this thing on my own.
 
I'm sure everyone will tell me how stupid I was for taking my car to the dealer, but I finally got it back and $1200 later it's running like new. I guess I kept the mechanic pretty busy because Ford had my car from Tuesday morning to Friday afternoon. Here's what was done:

1. Diagnosis
2. Multipoint Inspection
3. Replace DPFE Sensor
4. Replace intake gaskets + UIM & LIM cleaning
5. Replace IAC
6. Program PCM
7. Throttle Body Service
8. Replace PCV Valve
9. Clean EGR Passages
10. Replace Broken Vac Lines
11. PA State Emission Test - Pass
12. PA State Inspection - Pass

I don't know if I could have done these things on my own, but it's a little late at this point. Guess I gotta learn how to work on this thing on my own.
What you spent is actually very reasonable considering what was done to the car. And "it's running like new" :cool: .

If you do it yourself, you would have saved a few hundred dollars, but at the end of the day, you have to weigh spending time and effort versus spending a few bucks (and getting the car fixed right the first time). ;)
 
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