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royal purple AND honey? silly question..

KAOS_3.0

Hard-core CEG'er
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so I know this is a dumb question, but I see CFM sells honey for 18/qt, which is significantly cheaper than ford here, so since my mtx likes to leak fluid (checked a suspect seal I replaced, but it's dry, I'm thinking it may have a fine crack in the casting that is weeping, hopefully not though) I was wondering how retarded it would be to keep adding a quart of honey at a time until it's all honey in there?

or should I just keep dumping RP in :shrug:

I really have no idea of the chemistry of either fluid, I know some additrives can catalize and form all sorts of gunk, was just wondering if this had been tried before and what the result was.

idk, just a thought

[edit]

also, in the case of a fine crack, is there any way to repair that without a whole new housing?
 
it's 15.99 here... but it leaks out and I'd like not to dump whats in there out, like when I got the 3.0 in, I changed it completely because only a quart came out when I drained it. then the other day, I heated and filtered the old take out and added that back. it's getting pretty annoying.

not annoying enough to take the trans out now though, I've got other problems in the short term.

a 15 dollar a month royal purple habit is cheaper than not getting to work for two weeks while I try to figure out where the juice is leaking from.

I make almost a quart of RP an hour
 
so how about this: I go to napa this morning to get a quart of RP and I've bought my local store out!

WTF

so now I have to call all the napa's around until I find one that has some, and waste a lot of gas just to get some.

stupid POS mtx

out of curiosity, exactly how low does one of these have to get to start shifting hard and not wanting to go all the way into first? I'm guessing it's a major problem to be that low. I wish it had a fluid level sensor
 
out of curiosity, exactly how low does one of these have to get to start shifting hard and not wanting to go all the way into first? I'm guessing it's a major problem to be that low. I wish it had a fluid level sensor

They'll do that even when they're full.
 
why? my old one didn't, and this one feels fine when I overfill it a little. wish I could get more fluid in there, not like overfilling it is going to mess anything up, it's not a automatic.

I can basically tell when I'm about a quart low because it'll start doing this, and then when I put another quart in it stops.
 
why? my old one didn't, and this one feels fine when I overfill it a little. wish I could get more fluid in there, not like overfilling it is going to mess anything up, it's not a automatic.

I am no expert, but I am pretty sure that having too much fluid in there will not allow it to circulate properly and the fluid will slosh around too much causing it to aerate...


I can basically tell when I'm about a quart low because it'll start doing this, and then when I put another quart in it stops.

A whole quart low? They do not even take three quarts of fluid :shocked:
 
It doesnt circulate anyway though.

yeah, I think he's afraid of it frothing, and fti, it takes 2.7 qts, thats almost three, my drive way is a steep hill, so it takes all three quarts. that only makes it .3qts overfilled, I doubt that is enough higher over the surface area of the cross section to cause any frothing. besides, I'd thing the fluid was designed not to froth considering the design of manual gear boxes and the fact that any oil distribution takes place via gears spinning half submersed in the fluid very rapidly and the slinging of fluid that this causes.

frankly if the thing was filled to the top with no air, it would be impossible for it to froth, from the lack of air to beat into the fluid.

Beans said:
I guess you COULD JB weld it closed... but I would just get a new case.

even if it is a fine crack, its so hairline that jb weld wouldnt penetrate the crack. from the outside, it looks like a casting defect, but it's the only place I can think of the fluid escaping from.

I probably will just wait for a buit trans with a torsen in it to come up in the classifieds, then swap that in rather than hassle with this thing. but right now, it just has to work.

I suppose something as superficial as some super black on a well cleaned surface on the outside would probably keep the fluid in though...

it's just a little alarming that it's in the bell housing side of the diff casing. I noticed the defect when I put this thing in the first time, but I was pretty sure it didnt go all the way through, since it came out of a wrecked SVT. wasn't thinking anybody would keep driving a car with a cracked housing. then again, I guess I was forgetting about myself, haha

is it common for there to be casting defects in these? I've never read about any...
 
me thinks this thread calls for pictures. I'll go out tomorrow and jack the car up to take a few.

at any rate, really the point of this thread to start with was is there anything I can mix with poyal purple in an emergency if I have like 5 dollars and the fluid is dangerously low. I dont want to get stuck purely from being broke and too far from the house. I'd hate to have to figure out the rate of the leak and establish a quantity of RP per hour departed from my house during a road trip, and then drag all that with me to where I was going. the weight of the RP alone would effect fuel economy significantly. I'm talking about taking this thing to atlanta for a month ofr something, and I cant even buy RP at Nappa here right now.

its sort of a PITA
 
mostlikely place for leaks are cv seals speedo sensor or it was a friday when they put ur mtx together and dint torqe all the bolts down around the bell houseing

if u do have a crack in the casting take a dremal or a grinder clean the area around the crack and chanel out the crack a bit clean the area with with a wire brush http://www.durafix.com/ u can get it at autozone napa might go by a difrent name heat the area till it starst melting the stick work the material into the crack if its overhead spot use a pice if wood to hold the matireal from droping out and wrok the matireal in with the pice of wood its better then jb weld cause jb will most likey faile after a few heat cycels cause its an epoxy and epoxy dosent do well with alot of heat ccycels ie car geting hot under driveing and then car off car on and so on and u have oil wich epoxy dosent like ither but if ur looking for a cheap fast fix cause u just wana unload the car jb might be the way

and the durafix stuff i used it to patch up a block that had a rod go threw the side it did alot better then i thot i had stript holes in blocks heads that i filed with theis stuff and drilled and retapt and it was good as new fixed countles transfer cases that got dingd up from offroading one thing i wana try is fixing a mtx case after a diff explotion but i would need most of the bits of the case that got blown out so if anyone has one
 
I have an mtx case with a hole the size of you head in the diff casing if you want it.

I had thought about channeling the crack and filling it with something, but that seems like it would weaken an already weak casing that will later have an ATB diff pushing outwardly on it.

I may buy an argon gas kit for my welder and just channel out and weld the suspected area.
 
i dont mean cut a huge trench chanel out about 2-3mm deep v shape in the crack fill the chanel if its overhead use a wooden shim like a puty knife to keep the molten material in place and to smoth out this stuff is really strong i used it in alot of areas whre it would have stress and it held and as for a mtx houseing it can have a huge hole as long as u have most of the bits that got blown out u can put it all back together my friend thot it was a good idea to go rock crushing with his oil pan in his ranger 4L
he broght the oil pan to me with most of the bits and i put it back together and it still runs 2 yrs so far no problem i think this way is better then jb weld
 
I have an mtx case with a hole the size of you head in the diff casing if you want it.

I had thought about channeling the crack and filling it with something, but that seems like it would weaken an already weak casing that will later have an ATB diff pushing outwardly on it.

I may buy an argon gas kit for my welder and just channel out and weld the suspected area.
argon wont help u unles u have a tig welder cause ur regual mig cant weld aluminum thats why most alumin is cast but the odd time u see welded aluminum its usualy done with a tig welder cause a mig wil just blow holes and burn it thats why this stuff is a grate alturnitive its strong fairly cheap and it works really well
 
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