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How-to: Short Shifter Install

KingpinSVT

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
May 21, 2003
Messages
2,634
Location
Ocala, FL
Here is my old Steeda short shifter how to. Same idea for the B&M just skip the parts about the riser plate.

edit: this is for cars with the small plate

its really not a hard install. took me about 30-40 min max and i didnt have instructions. here is a brief overview:

1. remove the shift knob, reverse lock out, and shift boot.

2. remove the center console.

3. using a flat head screwdriver, pry off the shift linkage on the right hand side of the tower. dont pry on the whole thing, just try to pop loose the little center section. when you get in there you will see what im talking about.

4. remove the 4 screws that hold the shift tower on.

5. pry off the shift linkage on the bottom.

6. slide the shift lever out of the housing. the shift ball will be covered in a rubber thing with two plastic halves covering the ball in the rubber. again, when you see it you will know what im talking about.

7. take that rubber sheild off of the top half of the plastic on the inside and slide that plastic half off of the shifter.

8. remove the bottom half of that plastic sheild (i just left the rubber cover on it as opposed to taking it off)

9. grease up the main ball on the shifter (use lots). the grease is uber sticky and messy. i didnt wear gloves and it takes lots and lots of paper towels to get off. also go ahead and dab some grease on the shift linkages

10. put the top half of that plastic piece you just removed on the new shifter.

11. put the bottom half and rubber cover back on stretch that rubber cover back over the top half.

12. i removed the centering spring. one, i like it without it and two, it looked like a major [censored] to notch the tower. if you need to notch the tower, when you put everything back, you will see on the right hand side where the spring hits. its covered in a little rubber coating.

to remove the spring:

a. take off the c clip on the end of the pin that the spring is attached to (right behind the elbow on the right hand side shift linkage).
b. pull off the elbow (dont lose the washer under the carpet like me! i had to find a new one). c. remove the spring and put the elbow, washers, and clip back on.

13. insert your spacer in between the bottom of the shift tower.

14. slide the top half of the shifter back through the top piece of the shift tower.

15. work the bottom half of the shifter back through the bottom.

note: it may be kinda tricky to get the covered shifter ball back in the top half of the tower but once you do everything should fall into place

16. with your new bolts, start bolting everything back down.

17. reconnect the side and bottom shift linkages

18. put the center console back in

19. attach the shift boot to the new reverse lock out

20. slide the two rubber o rings onto the shifter and position them in their groves.

21. slide the reverse lock out back on the shifter (the flat side goes in back) and line the slot in the reverse lock out up with the hole in the side of the shifter.

22. insert the pin into the hole. it will take a little persuasion (sp?) but just bang it in, it will go

22. re-attach the shift boot to the console

23. put the spring from under the shift konb back on top of the new reverse lock out

24. screw the shift knob back on

25. enjoy your new shifter.

this was just a quick write up so if i forgot something, let me know. hope this helps.

also, if you cant find the bolts anywhere, let me know. i would be willing to go buy you some, if you cant get them anywhere else. i just called around to some hardware stores and found some.
 
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I have not re-adjusted the cables and the shifter has been on for roughly 25,000 miles. Not a problem to speak of so far.

Im not saying not too. It may be required in some instances. Or it may be preferred in all instances. I never did, and never had a problem.
 
Mine needed a bit of tweaking.. of course that would require me to be able to actually disengage the linkage... Its fine tho, i left it and its only popped out of 4th like 2 times..
 
They would probably only need to be adjusted after installing the Steeda short shifter, as it is the only one that actually changes the location of the ball on the bottom. Other short shifter should be fine.
 
Good point. I didn't think about readjusting the ends when I did my Steeda shifter. But a little while later, Terry ended up with my tranny and saw the 3rd gear grind that I had been subtly hearing.
 
i never adjusted anything after both my B&M and Steeda instals, and mine shifts fine.
i think it is a hit or miss application.
 
It's notchy in the sense that the amount of force required to put it into gear is more than it should be. This is most prevalent for 2nd and Reverse though. It's not the peanut butter shifting experience, but more like they pop into place.
 
I just noticed that I dropped the washer without knowing it, finding it later in the carpet. Can anyone tell me where to put the washer?

"Next to the dryer" is not the answer I'm looking for.;)
 
2000 csvt cfm short throw shifter installing

2000 csvt cfm short throw shifter installing

while i was doing research on how to install my cfm shifter into my 2000 csvt, i cam across a hand full of threads that contained detailed info regarding this install.

1. csvt#49's thread
2. kingppinsvt's thread
3. striker2's cfm install thread

however, none that i found was specific to the 2000 csvt. afaik, the 2000 sts install required the riser plate. i bought the cfm shifter complete with riser place, new bolts and even 2 allen keys and a torx bit! kudos to the cfm team for offering such a thoughtful and complete kit!

when i took apart my center console, i was kinda unsure exactly what i was looking at because the shifter tower before me does not look like those i have seen on those previous sts installation threads... i did some more researching and found this on the NECO. then it became clear that my 2000 csvt came equipped with the updated focus shifter tower that does not require the use of the riser plate! which sorta contradicts what i've learned up to that point... regardless, i was pleased at the find non the less.

i would like to point out that dislocating the bottom cable is easier than using a flat head to pop it out. simple press the center of the cup like a button and the ball will pop right out! lastly there are much debate on whether the shifter cables will need to be adjusted. i was thinking that a "how to" adjust the cable link would have been a great final touch should you decide to perform the adjustment. The procedure is in this thread under striker2 and brapple's posts.

over all, the shifts for my car feels much more solid and much less play. you can definitely tell the shifts are shorter as i need to get used to this new decreased shift length. construction of the cfm kit is top notch and thoughtful. i do kinda miss the reverse lock out feature of the old shifter... the reverse lock out gave the car a "euro" feel.
 
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