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Anyones starter relay ever go bad?

tiberious

New CEG'er
Joined
May 7, 2007
Messages
13
:shrug:

I've got an intermittent "no start, no crank" condition that never lasts long enough to hunt down.
 
yes the relay can go bad. luckly you can get just the relay/solenoid (its all one part) from your local parts store for about $50 or so iirc.

you still need to pull the starter to replace it though.
 
Since we don't know the specifics of his car (year, engine, tranny, etc), any suggestions at this point may be premature.

Steve
 
Which one are we talking about?

Which one are we talking about?

There seems to be a mixup about which "relay" is being discussed here. Is it a part on the starter or a relay in the engine bay fuse box? I might have this problem as well. I'll turn the key and the starter will engage for a second and then it stops as if I let go of the key. Next try it might do the same thing or engage long enough to start the engine. Most times it works as designed.
Karl
 
The "starter solenoid" is attached to the starter.

The "starter solenoid relay" is R6 in the Power Distribution Box next to the battery.

Edit. To the OP. Do you have a grinding sound? If yes, then it is probably the solenoid or the plunger. You need to change it soon or the flywheel will be next to go ($$$$$$).

If no grinding sound, just dead, then it could be the relay (in the Power Distribuiton Box), ignition switch (or lock) or any of the previously associated wiring (wiring harness issue).
 
Last edited:
All Contours, Mystiques and newer Cougs use C52 for the starter relay. The physical location in the BJB was changed in 5/3/99, (5/24 for the Cougar), but the circuit remained the same, (according to the wiring diagrams), regardless of engine/trans configuration.

95-97 schematics do not follow this pattern.

Technically, the starter relay for the 98-00 'turds is designated as K22 and plugs into connector C52. 95-97 did not give a circuit designator (only a name) for the relay and it plugs into connector C1017 in the BJB.

Additionally, the identification of the vehicle year and transmission is very important as each possible configuration has different ramifications for the starter circuit ie, CPP vs MLPS and non-PATS vs PATS with its starter interrupt relay.

The OP STILL needs to identify his vehicle as there are STILL to many variables involved to do other that speculate, guess, or throw everything out there that is possible.


Steve
 
My car is a 99 Cougar ATX with the 2.5L

My car is a 99 Cougar ATX with the 2.5L

I do have the starter relay in the BJB. Designated as K22.

It's very difficult to diagnose since the problem doesn't happen very often and it never happens when I am at home.

I think I will throw a new relay at it and see if that fixes it. Otherwise I think I will have to clean the connections at the starter.
 
There is only one starter relay and it's is in the BJB.

The piece that is part of the starter is the starter solenoid, (which is what sounds more likely to be your problem). You often will still get the *click* noise from a bad solenoid, or at the very least, hear the relay click. However, if the relay is bad, you won't hear anything buy your keys jingling.
Thanks. Yes, terminology is important and I'm not surprised that my problem is probably the hardest of the two to remedy. Why should anything I have to do be easy? :mad:
Karl
 
Had the same issue, car wouldn't even attempt to start. It was like the clutch wasn't depressed, I got nothing. Replaced the relay and she's running like a champ again. Thanks to everyone who was a part of this thread! CEG has saved me $$$ SOOOO many times, you guys rock!
 
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