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Spec clutch fails in first 25 miles

tasso

CEG'er
Joined
Mar 25, 2006
Messages
109
Ok first we used the Ford honey fluid. The install was done by my friend Keith who did the first install also. He owns a 5 bay repair shop and is a very good mechanic. The clutch was great for the first 25 miles, it engaged very smooth with no shudder in the pedal. It was driving fine came to a stop sign in town and when pushing the clutch pedel in it was hard to push down and then when released felt like it would not engage in first gear. I let all the way off the clutch it shuddered a bit and it engaged at the very top of the pedel but just enough to get rolling, any slight increase in rpm's and it slipped. I was able to limp the few blocks home at feather throttle.

The first spec clutch failed in 20,000 miles. With that one we used the resurfaced flywheel and I just assumed that I had a bad clutch or perhaps a improperly machined oem flywheel that contributed to the premature failure of the first spec..

The one installed today went in with a brand new light weight flywheel. We replaced the trans with a brand new trans at the same time because of the third gear syncro issue in the original. I would think if it was a bad release or throw out bearing it would make some noise but I dont know that for sure. There is no noise it is quiet.

This sucks!
 
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Sometimes peoples SPECs go bad because they accidently install the Zetec TOB instead of the Duratec TOB. If your SPEC went out within 25 miles, I would say thats a install issue and not a SPEC issue.
 
This was a complete kit from spec. The throw out bearing that was installed was the one that they sent. The first clutch failed in under 20,000 miles and now this spec failed the first day. Are you saying that spec could have sent me the wrong throw out bearing?
 
what spec clutch did you use and with what flywheel?

SPEC is a pretty renowned company, and i think the chances of you getting 2 bad ones from them is a little far fetched. Something else is wrong with this picture.
 
It is a spec stage 1 and a fidanza flywheel. I purchased both clutches from SP Motorsports. The first clutch always had some shudder and a high release point. It failed with under 20,000 miles. This car has never seen a quarter mile track and is not abused on the street. The first clutch went in with the stock re-surfaced flywheel. I gave the first one the benefit of the doubt because there could be the possibility that the flywheel was not re-surfaced properly or I may have just got a bad clutch. After talking with Joe at SP Motorsports I went ahead and ordered this one.

As I mentioned it went in with a new transmission and the new flywheel. Someone else has told me it sounds like the new throw out bearing they sent me failed but I do not know. We are talking now taking it apart for the third time and alot of cost. I am going to call spec on Monday and see how they stand up for the product.
 
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Failure at 20,000 miles on SPEC is possible. Some have died out early. I think a member on here is on his third SPEC clutch becaused the first two failed early on him.

With the second one failing at 25 miles, I would say it's the TOB that came with the clutch. SPEC uses Ford TOBs, and IIRC Ford had problems with shipping out Zetec TOBs in Duratec TOB packaging. SPEC did have a bunch of clutches that were coming with Zetec TOBs.
 
when my clutch was installed, I made sure an OEM Ford TOB was installed, I even took the one Spec provided outa the packaging to make sure..OEM slave cylinder and OEM TOB with Spec Stage I clutch..
 
I'm on the incorrect TOB bandwagon myself.

I've had my SPEC installed for 30k very hard driven miles. I'm safely willing to claim driven harder then any one else. Not poor driving abusive, as in slipping the clutch profusely due to inadequate skill, but hard launching & repetetive very high rpm shifting done on a daily basis.
 
Well the trans is coming back out. I have been in contact with spec. I will update you guys on both the results after the trans is pulled.
 
Check the overall height of your slave. The V6 is around 78 MM high, the 4 cylinder is much shorter. The V6 has a FLAT face on the release bearing face,the 4 cylinder has a raised portion.

V6 left, 4 cyl right

standard.jpg
 
i was just on fordcontour.org and terry was showing how much dust a spec puts out after only 10k miles and holly crap!! its bad

dose anyone know the TQ rating on a OEM svt clutch?
 
Yeah, defenitly buy an OEM TOB from the dealership, don't use the one that came in the package. I have heard of too many problems. That is just my 2 cents.



Reebs
 
i'm about sick of my contour and am looking to buy a new lexus due to my money pit know as the 2000 csvt. how and the dash wrap !!! thanks ford you cheap *******s !!!!

now my spec stage one clutch kit is acting crazy. the engine will continue to rev with the clutch fully depressed. is happening more frequently now. just driving normal while changing from 2-3 , 3-4 ,4-5. i've had it for about a year and it has manybe 20K miles on it . it was just great untill the other day.

i wonder if the two burn outs i did this past weekend have something to do with it . the first one wasn't to bad but the second burnout was a Mcnasty.
lol.

if it is the throw out bearing going south this POS is so getting traded in this weekend. i've got my eye on a 2003 lexus GS300 sport edition.
 
The get the **** off of CEG. Your car sucks because your clutch was improperly installed? The cars arent a money pit...I don't know where you get that from. Just because you may choose to spend money, or you choose to abuse the car which causes premature wear or damaged parts, doesn't mean the car is a POS. Granted some things could have been better, like no dash warpage (which doesn't affect anything) or the weak differential (which works fine for normal driving). Go buy your lexus and beat the crap out of it, and then when your putting money into it for fixes...complain to that board about how that car is a POS.
 
The get the **** off of CEG. Your car sucks because your clutch was improperly installed? The cars arent a money pit...I don't know where you get that from. Just because you may choose to spend money, or you choose to abuse the car which causes premature wear or damaged parts, doesn't mean the car is a POS. Granted some things could have been better, like no dash warpage (which doesn't affect anything) or the weak differential (which works fine for normal driving). Go buy your lexus and beat the crap out of it, and then when your putting money into it for fixes...complain to that board about how that car is a POS.

Dammit! You beat me to it!

Seriously, clutch has nothing to do with high revs at all. Read the FAQs before blaming a certain part. :nonono:

IAC or throttle hang fix is the first thing that comes to mind. :idea:
 
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