Strange brake thing

[starjammir]

Again for the cougar 2001 v6 5 speed ZN
Anyways I will push on the brakes for about three seconds (feels normal) and then it feels like the ABS is kicking on (pulsing really fast) and the pedal will go down another inch or so. I bleed them twice already with no luck. Any other thoughts? Slider pins sticking?

[morbid]

I've had this same problem for a while... and I know of another local CSVT like that too. Do the brakes work like normal if: you're going at a decent speed, depress the clutch so the rpms drop, then jump on the brakes? Mine appears to be vacuum related, but I've replaced many of the parts with no change. Strange that it kind of went away recently... it happens every once in a while now, instead of at every stop.

[69Boss302]

sounds like you still have air trapped somewhere.

or

Are all of the bleeder screws tight? What is the fluid level in the resevoir?

[starjammir]

Bleeders look good and are tight, fluid in the MC is fine. I did not try to bleed the clutch on it. Should I try that?

[Ray]

Make sure to check the INSIDE half of the caliper. if you have a small leak either at the bleeder, or in the hoses, it will tend to leak down the inner side and won't be visible.

[starjammir]

I hope to pull the caliper off this weekend and check out what is going on with them. Something isnt right and I dont wanna take it to a shop since I just got done with Brake repair in school.
The weird thing about this brake prob is that it doesnt do it all the time. I drove car today for about 40 miles and it only did the problem once. Weird!

[jd2-98s]

This is some info I came aross, might be help full.

The click noise during initial driving is a result of the ABS computer self-test mode in which the computer momentarily energizes the solenoid in the ABS system. On many systems, pedal pulsations are normal during ABS function; however, pedal pulsation during a normal stop when the ABS function is not operating may be caused by out-of-round drums or rotors with excessive runout.
Vehicles equipped with antilock brakes will have different braking characteristics during extreme braking than vehicles without ABS. During normal braking conditions, the antilock portion of the brake system does not function. However, wheel speed sensors continuously send information to the ABS controll module. When wheel lock-up begins to take place, the control module will modulate hydraulic pressure through a series of solenoids to prevent wheel lock-up and maintain steering ability.
Correct tire size plays a critcal role in antilock operation. Different size tires can affect ABS operation and may cause wheel lock-up. During the ABS function process, the driver can misinterpret normal ABS operation as a brake problem. A pulsation felt through the brake pedal during ABS operation is normal. Also a whine or ratcheting noise can be heard as the solenoids are modulating hydraulic pressure to the wheels. Some systems use an antilock pump assembly, which will initiate from time to time to maintain pressure in the accumulator. The driver may hear an audible whine from the pump. If the pump runs continuously or is activated for longer periods of time, this may indicate a faulty accumulator. If no pulsation is felt under hard braking at speeds above 10mph, suspect an antilock malfunction. Below 10mph, the antilock system is generally disabled.

[SVTGT350]

Sounds more like you are getting false ABS activation. If you have access to a scanner monitor the 4 wheels speed sensors and make sure they all read the same or within 1 mph of each other. If you have a sensor that is reading significantly different than the other 3 it will cause the ABS system to activate which is what you are describing.

If you don't have access to a scanner remove the wheels and visually check the ABS sensor mounts. A common problem, especially back East, is where the ABS sensor mounts to the hub rust will buildup under the mounting tab causing the air gap between the sensor and the excitor ring to become to large and give an incorrect reading to the controller.

Another thing that can cause false ABS activation is loose wheel bearings. Neither the Cougar or the Contour have serviceable wheel bearings so if there is any looseness the the bearing will need to be replaced.

[starjammir]

Thanks for the info. I plan on doing some work on it soon so Ill check all this stuff out when I can.
Thanks guys...if you think of anything else feel free to post it