Ford Racing Performance Parts Short Throw Shifter Install How-To

Alright well I got around to installing the shifter tonight. Ran into a few problems. The bolts I bought need to be allen head bolts or torx head bolts because otherwise the reverse lockout can not be installed (not enough clearance). Now for the real problem, well sort of a problem I guess, the neutral return spring no longer fits. This is not a huge issue, but the shifter will no longer center the shifter. I'm curious to see what other people have done when installing the Steeda shifter...

However enought talk heres the pics (from my new camera, Nikon Coolpix 8700)

Remove shift knob and boot.


Disconnect the cable on the bottom of the shifter


Remove the C-clip on the side for the upper shift cable. Slide the lever assembly off the rod.

Remove the 4 torx bolts on top of the shifter assembly. For me they were T30 bolts.


Remove the top


Pull this shifter out


Peel back the rubber boot that holds the plastic bearing together.


Pull the plastic bearings apart and off of the shifter. I decided to clean my off to remove the old grease.


Use the new tube of grease and grease up the ball on the new shifter. Replace the plastic bearing back over the new shifter.


Put the rubber boot back over the plastic bearing to keep it together.


Stupid 10 picture rule... give me a few minutes

Place the riser plate over the mounting block.


Install the shifter and hook up the lower cable.


Replace the top cover. Install longer bolts 6mm x 1.0 pitch x 60mm. Place the side lever assembly back on to the rod (insuring the spring is installed with the plastic retaining ring). You won't be able to use the spring assist neutral spring as it no longer reaches where it needs to with the riser plate. However from what I can tell it needs to be there so that the lever stays in place. The retaining clip can now be reinstalled over the shaft.


With the shifter in place I decided to place the reverse lock out piece over the shifter and then placing the retaining rod through the shaft to hold the reverse lock out piece in place. Then well the rest you know. Replace the shifter boot and put the tie strap on to tighten the boot to the shifter.


Some after thoughts...

The Steeda shift assist spring is not useable. It was built specifically for the Focus shifter because the bolt holes on the top cover on the Focus are closer together. Also the only way ( I can think of as of right now on the fly) to retain the netural centering spring is to drill a hole for the shifter or denting the floor board the same amount as the riser plate or create a new spring somehow.

well this seems like it's going to be a fun install!! Man I don't have any torx with me at school..... well we'll see how it goes, and it may take awhile before I'll be able to install this, but definitly thanks for the guide, looks like it'll help tons!!

-Jon

What you need to do to keep the centering spring is use a die grinder and widen the slot in the tower upward by 3/8th of an inch. This will allow the spring the clearance that it needs. I forgot to tell you about that. I also forgot to mention that you would need the allen head bolts. Sorry:shrug:

So, was there still clearance under the shifter eventhough the riser was only 5/16th instead of 3/8th?

Looks like the riser is a go for the 98-99 models just need to see what a 2000 tower looks like.

TropicTour - can we meet at lunch on Thursday or Friday - somewhere in Renton?

Schuck's sells cheap Torx tools. I will look into suppling Torx bolts so that you only need one tool. And a die grinder I guess, or just run without the centering spring until you have access to a die grinder.

Yea from what I can tell there is still enough clearance, but it's dang close. Definately need the 3/8" plate.

Yea I didn't think of that. Grounding up the slot would accomplish what you need to use the spring. Thats a lot of grinding though as you have to make up 3/8"... oh well I'll take care of that when I can. At the moment the dremel is over at my folks place my brother needed it to modify something on his Talon TSi.

Hopefully sometime this weekend I'll have everything squared away.

Bugzuki said:

Schuck's sells cheap Torx tools. I will look into suppling Torx bolts so that you only need one tool. And a die grinder I guess, or just run without the centering spring until you have access to a die grinder.

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... I have plenty of tools, which also includes a full line of torx bits. I've thought about buying some torx screwdrivers... but eh I haven't needed them that much.

I'll run back up to Ace Hardware tomorrow after work to see if they have torx bolts if not allen bolts.

The riser plate worked out quite well though. Good work Paul!

so have u drove it yet? how does it shift? tell us something....

CSVT#49 said:

... I have plenty of tools, which also includes a full line of torx bits.

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You got me, I guess I was aiming that second message towards Primalzer1998's post.

primalzer1998 said:

well this seems like it's going to be a fun install!! Man I don't have any torx with me at school..... well we'll see how it goes, and it may take awhile before I'll be able to install this, but definitly thanks for the guide, looks like it'll help tons!!

-Jon

Click to expand...

Very helpful pics.
I was wondering about how to remove the stock shifter boot. Does the plastic ring around the edge just pop out?

Also looking at this install, I can't see how the 2000 install would be any different. Can anyone comment on whats different with reference to 49's pics?

Tell us how you like it.

ok so can i just use a dremal with a cut off wheel to make the slot?

SVTC1136 said:

Very helpful pics.
I was wondering about how to remove the stock shifter boot. Does the plastic ring around the edge just pop out?

Also looking at this install, I can't see how the 2000 install would be any different. Can anyone comment on whats different with reference to 49's pics?

Tell us how you like it.

Click to expand...

yes you just pull on the boot and it will pop off

SVTC1136 said:

Also looking at this install, I can't see how the 2000 install would be any different. Can anyone comment on whats different with reference to 49's pics?

Click to expand...

I am trying to meet up with TropicTour tomorrow that has a 2000 to see how it is different. I will get back on as soon as I know more. He something about it going under the car.

ok guys here are a few things ...

first I wouldn't remove the c-clip and remove the arm with the centering spring, leave it on there and remove the shift cable ...

next, I have said it is just about every thread on the steeda shifter in the last few weeks that you need to make a notch to make the centering spring work with the raiser plate .... how quickly people forget

BrApple said:

as for the steeda it will come with instructions for the focus ... only difference is you install the raiser plate and have to notch the tower for the centering spring ... now I don't think I can get a good pic but I will try to discribe it ... the centering spring on a 99 is about 2 to 3 inches long and runs down the side of the shifter tower ... as you can slightly see in my picture there is a arms the mounts at the coner over the spring and sits between the two arms of the spring. the spring sits in a groove in the tower the is like an upside down T ... so when you move the shifter left or right it expands the spring providing tention and the end of the spring moves in this groove ... since the plate goes in between the base and the metal cap where the ball on the shifter is located it raises the shifter and the spring ... now since the bottom of the spring is up higher then before its end is out the grove and it can not move, therefor you can not move the shifter left or right ... one you get everything together you will see where the interference is and how much you have to cut, but its a very small amount ...

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and again the information on the 2k raiser plate has been provided before ... also the 2k tower the shifter sits in is all plastic also iirc ...

Y2KSVT said:

With the plate Brapple is talking about, you'll have to have an earlier model 98+ Contour. I don't know when the shifter tower was revised, but the later models need a completely different riser plate. This requires the removal of the exhaust heat shield, which allows access to 4 wing-nuts(if I remember correctly). This allows you to remove the entire shifter tower, once all of the cables are undone. You can use anything from plexiglass(like I did) to a CNC'd piece of aluminum. Trace the bottom of the shifter tower onto the plexiglass, including the 4 holes that the mounting brackets go through. Cut the plexiglass out, drilling the 4 holes out as well. Remove the insulation from the shifter tower, directly below the front-to-back shift cable, to allow a little more clearance. Put the shifter tower on your freshly cut plexiglass, and reinstall it back into the car, with the Steeda in place of your stock shifter. Voila!

Click to expand...

Y2KSVT said:

Mark

Click to expand...

also just follow the focus directions, obviously only do what applies to the contour ...


I have also stated before that the centering assist spring is for the Focus only


also it appears that you might have installed your reverse lockout backwards ... flat spot is suppose to be to the back ...





finally I have circled that are that needs to be removed so that the centering spring will work ... all you have to do is notch it upwards the same thickness as the raiser plate ....




also search the old forums, I know there has to be more then one installation thread created after the past group buys for the steeda shifter ...

Please tell me you took a side-by-side picture of the stock vs ford racing shifters....

can you explain more about "notching the spring" maybe with pics or show me a thread with it. thank you.

BrApple said:

finally I have circled that are that needs to be removed so that the centering spring will work ... all you have to do is notch it upwards the same thickness as the raiser plate ....

Click to expand...

The spring sits down around a piece of flat steel. When you move the shifter side to side, one side of the spring actuates on the piece of steel, while the other side moves with the shifter lever mechanism. In the picture above there is a cutout that has been circled. This cutout allows the spring to move in the full range of motion. In order to accomodate the taller plate that cutout needs to be extended upwards.

I will include a paper template with the riser plate that can be used to mark and cut the slot.

Hope that helps
Paul

I'm sure I can figure it out. I just wanted to make sure my car was driveable the next morning so I could make it in to work. I called it a night on the car at 9pm.

Like I said I'll pick up the correct bolts at the hardware store today and then I will cut the slot bigger this weekend when I have a dremel tool available to me. I'll take updated pictures and modify the How-To so that everything is shown.

I just wanted to get this post up as quick as possible so that people were aware what they were getting into and what the end result somewhat looks like.

please post side-by side pictures of stock vs. this when you take it back out so we can confirm 100% that this is a steeda.

Bugzuki said:

The spring sits down around a piece of flat steel. When you move the shifter side to side, one side of the spring actuates on the piece of steel, while the other side moves with the shifter lever mechanism. In the picture above there is a cutout that has been circled. This cutout allows the spring to move in the full range of motion. In order to accomodate the taller plate that cutout needs to be extended upwards.

I will include a paper template with the riser plate that can be used to mark and cut the slot.

Hope that helps
Paul

Click to expand...

yes! thats perfict. i get it now. thank you so much, i was just worried about that.