Idle Fluctuating And Stalling

I know there are numerous threads dealing with this but I have tried all of them to no luck. I bought a 96 Contour (2 liter 4 cylinder) knowing it had problems but this ones got me. The guy that had it before me had the head changed to a zx3 head. When i start it....it stalls unless i hold the gas pedal down a little and then it still revs between 1000 and 2500 RPM's. Sometimes it will stay running but at high RPM. I can drive it but when i drive it it wants to stay around 2000 rpm's. I checked the idle speed control valve. Thats brand new. checked the fuel pump, injectors, EGR and much more. Im new to the FORD thing so im not sure. any help would greatly be appreciated. could it be the throttle body?

Welcome . Drive to Autozone or Advance and have the CEL code(s) read. Then post the exact code(s) here. It may be a dirty throttle body or a vacuum leak. Clean the throttle body (reinstall with a new gasket), check for vacuum leaks (spray with carb cleaner and when the idle changes, you found the leak).

Edit. Throttle body cleaning
http://www.contour.org/ubbthreads/s...d=allposts&Main=919728&Search=true#Post920243

there is no CEL. It came on when i first got the car but i fixed that. It was an O2 Sensor. will they actually get codes if the CEL isnt on? Is that a stupid question? Im not used to the cars yet? Im old school. LOL

pocketbullets32 said:

there is no CEL. It came on when i first got the car but i fixed that. It was an O2 Sensor. will they actually get codes if the CEL isnt on? Is that a stupid question? Im not used to the cars yet? Im old school. LOL

Click to expand...

Yes, sometimes the code is intermittent or pending and will not light up the CEL yet. They might not want to scan or read it for you but you can insist.

There are quite a few old school CEGers here too.

Well i gotta code. Its P1506 Idle air control overspeed error. Whats that mean?

Check connector to IAC valve. If that is fine, clean/change the IAC valve.

Edit. IAC cleaning/changing

Zetec IAC location.

For the Zetec I-4, you need to access the IAC from the bottom of the car.

IAC cleaning
from Ray's UIM/LIM how to in Duratec Maintenance how to.

"Replacing the IAC gasket:
(From IAC faq)
Over time, the IAC (Idle Air Control) valve becomes sticky due to buildup from the EGR and PCV systems. It can stick partially open such that idle quality is adversely affected, and engine RPM's will not drop below 1500. For a while, blipping the throttle will restore normal idle, but this only works for so long.

The fix is to remove the IAC valve by unbolting the two 8mm bolts that hold it on and disconnected the wiring plug. If you are careful enough, replacement of the gasket will not be necessary. The gasket costs less than US $1.00, so it is no tragedy if you destroy it. Once the valve is off, spray it out with some carb/intake cleaner and make sure any gunky residue is gone. Reattach, and you are done. It is a lot cheaper than a new IAC, which runs around US $70. Note: Ford claims the IAC cannot be cleaned, but this is not true in my experience." Ray.

Location of the IAC for the Zetec.

"It's on the back side of the intake plenum under the throttle body area." DESIGN.

I looked at the Haynes manual and the Zetec IAC valve is located next to the starter. Below are the steps from the 1996 Ford CD to remove it .

Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve


Removal

1. Disconnect battery ground cable

2. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube and resonator assembly.
3. Disconnect the main chassis vacuum line.

4. Disconnect the ignition coil and radio interference capacitor wiring.

5. Remove the fuel line bracket retaining bolt.

6. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, raise vehicle on hoist.
7.
7. Disconnect the engine control sensor wiring or fuel charging wiring (depending upon application) from the idle air control valve (IAC valve) at the idle air control valve connector.

8. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, remove retainer for engine control sensor wiring from the upper retaining stud bolt.

9. Remove the two idle air control valve retaining bolts or stud bolt (depending upon application).

10. Remove the idle air control valve and idle air control valve gasket.

Installation

1. Note: If scraping is necessary, be careful not to damage idle air control valve or intake manifold idle air control valve gasket surfaces or drop material into intake manifold.

Clean idle air control valve gasket mating surfaces.

2. To install idle air control valve, reverse Removal procedure. Tighten the fuel line bracket bolt to 8-12 N-m (71-106 lb-in).

3. On 2.5L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the retaining bolt and stud bolt to 8-12

4. On 2.0L engine equipped vehicles, tighten the idle air control valve retaining bolts to 8-11 N-m (71-97 lb-in).

IAC is brand new. i think i have a warped intake. Vacuum leaks everywhere!

pocketbullets32 said:

IAC .. Vacuum leaks everywhere!

Click to expand...

Sometimes just tightening the bolts or hose clamps to specs will take care of that. If not, maybe some new gaskets. Did you check if the connector for the IAC valve is installed correctly?

there is only one way that the wires can go on the IAC. You think the throttle body is bad? I took it off and looked down it and the little valve in it doesnt sit tight against the TB walls. should it?

Take a picture and post.

another question. I did the head conversion to the zx3 head. So i have the zx3 intake plenum but does anyone have the part number for the gasket or does this not have a gasket?