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Help - hub wont go back in

Murtaza

CEG'er
Joined
Jun 26, 2005
Messages
92
Location
Jersey City, NJ
Hey guys, I had bearing noise in the right side of my 96 GL so I took off the hub and got new bearings pressed out an in at pep boys. The problem I ran into now while finishing up is that after I connected the axle back onto the hub, I reconnect the ball joint to the hub but the strut has no room to get back on. Likewise, with the strut connected first I try to get the ball joint back in but theres nearly 1/2 inch gap. I took the control arm off hoping I could connect the strut and ball joint then just push the arm back in but that's not working. Anything else I should try before I hand it over to a mechanic?
 
You might have accidentally pulled the 1/2 shaft out of the reciever. Put your hand on the boot of the 1/2 shaft & try to guide the axel back in there. Might take a little manuvering, but you'll get it.
 
I think you should connect your knuckle to the strut, mount the strut into the strut tower, install the halfshaft into the transaxle, pull the knuckle out enough to let the halfshaft get behind the knuckle insert the halfshaft into the knuckle and install the nut that goes in the front, put the ball joint in the lower clamp of the knuckle. now if you have stock suspension on your car or suspension you cannot compress by hand or strap you will have to follow the #1 step below, if you have after market suspension that will allow you to compress then you should be able to follow #2.

1. aquire spring compressing clamps and follow compressing clamps instruction to compress springs far enough to get ball joints bolts and nuts to line up to holes in control arms and bolt down.

2. compress the strut/spring assembly to where ball joint lines up to holes and prethread a start bolt, then adjust and line up other holes and completely install all 3 bolts with lock washers and nuts.

the #2 route works with my suspension setup but again it is lowered and not stock so it is easy to do it that way. hope this helps and have a good day.
 
Tour has a good point that the CV came apart. I also think I know what trouble your having.

I have yet to find spring compressors that fit in the wheel wells. Although they show a pic of it in the Haynes manual. Here is a trick from the big dawgs on CEG.

The very top nut on the strut inside the engine bay. Bring it up tight but so the strut can move around a little bit. Too tight you will not be able to move it right/left front/back. Install the knuckle onto it however do not put the bolt in yet, you will find you can bring the knuckle up alittle more past the bolting hole on the strut.

Then get a chain about 18-20 inch or so, you have to make a loop with it, then sit it over the controll arm. This way you can use your foot to hold the arm down, and have 2 hands to move everything else into place. Too make the loop in the chain use a bolt to hold it together. Once you get the knuckle over the ball joint let your foot up slowly, and try not to pinch any fingers. You will find that that you might have to push in on the strut/knuckle to get the joint to line up.
 
the spring compressor I bought was a dealer item, you can order it because they are now using the same one on the Fusion with an extra spacer, the extra spacer bracket is not needed to work on the tours.
 
I haven't been able to work on it for a while and got some time now. I took the half shaft out and yeah it's definitely out of place and has a tear on the inner boot. I'm going to see if any local mechanic shops can replace the boot. If not, I'll try finding a new axle. Quick question, how do I know if I have ABS or not? I'm not sure I saw any ABS sensors around the knuckle and I want to be sure incase I decide to go with a new axle. Also, the other part that is attached to the inner boot (I'm not sure the name but it's the other shaft that goes to the differential) do I just hammer that part away or is there a special puller?
 
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Quick question, how do I know if I have ABS or not? I'm not sure I saw any ABS sensors around the knuckle and I want to be sure incase I decide to go with a new axle. Also, the other part that is attached to the inner boot (I'm not sure the name but it's the other shaft that goes to the differential) do I just hammer that part away or is there a special puller?

ABS Q= if you have wide gapped teeth on the knuckle side of the H/S (on the fat part) and their is a geared sensor attached to the back side of the knuckle you have ABS. also if you slam on your brakes to were they lock up and you hear a vibrating/kinda grinding sound and an ABS light flashes you got abs.

Pulling inner Shaft Q= I just use a big pry bar and work it back and forth going from onwe side to the other. It can be a pain sometimes but you'll definitely know when it has released.
 
Ok I checked with a couple local shops and the average price for a inner boot is $35 w/o labor. I looked on GCK.com and amazon.com and a new axle is about $49 so I might as well change it out while I have it laying here. I'm going to assume this is non-ABS because the teeth seem pretty close together. What does this geared sensor look like? I'm not seeing anything except the knuckle and the axle. Also if it is actually non-ABS, I can't find the exact model (GCK FD-8028) on amazon only the ABS version (FD-8028A) is there anywhere else I should look?

BTW, thanks a lot for the help guys. :)
 
an abs model will have a toothed ring around it neer the hub and there will be two wires going from the body of the car down to the hub for the sensor.
 
Well it went in perfect with the new half shaft. Even the ball joint wasn't that much of a struggle. Wewt!@ Thanks for the help guys
 
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