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Bell housing torque specs. and sequence 1999 ford contour svt

Mr Bill

CEG'er
Joined
Sep 25, 2009
Messages
105
I have the transaxle off, removed bell housing to inspect and removed clutch. Reinstalling clutch, slave, etc but need to know the torque, tighten pattern for bell housing bolts to clutch housing to reinstall transaxle. I have the torque specs for bolting transaxle to the engine. Thanks


By the way there is no sealant used between bell housing and clutch housing. Aluminum to Al contact
 
I don't think there is a sequence. In the many engines we have done we just start one and bring them all in slowly.

Do you mean the Clutch Slave or the engine to trans? There must be the proper sealant on the clutch slave cylinder or you will be pulling it all apart again as soon as you attempt to bleed the clutch.
 
Thanks, The new slave comes with a rubber o ring. The old one did not and had a sealant from the residue seen after removal.


I may not have my naming correctly but first is the bell housing that has all the intricate gears , next there is a second housing that covers the pressure plate, disc


The bell housing has many small bolts 6 and this housing which contains the spline or rod goes through the slave which is apart of the clutch housins so I connect these two first and just tighten them and bring them together. The whole piece the transaxle? is then lifted and put into the block or engine( diferential), The bolts to engine are much bigger and vary in length require Loctite and specify torque. Hope I explained it OK.


My flywheel is in good shape. At 176000 first clutch and were near the wear markers but no damage.
 
By the way the bell housing which has six identical bolts , contains fluid for the gears and connects to clutch housing is an Aluminum to Aluminum connection. No sealant used.
 
The two halves of the transmission are suppose to be sealed together ...




Also the tob does not use the O-ring anymore, just anaerobic sealer.
 
Anaerobic sealer is recommended on both the TOB and the transmission case. That said, I used regular ultra-black RTV on mine, and it's still good 60,000+ miles later.

Regardless, you do have to seal it up.
 
Anaerobic sealer is recommended on both the TOB and the transmission case. That said, I used regular ultra-black RTV on mine, and it's still good 60,000+ miles later.



Its not so much that ultra-black RTV will not work its that it hardens no matter what. So if someone was to put to much on and it gets into the transmission its going to float around as a "solid" piece. With the anaerobic sealer it will stay as a liquid, and therefore has less chance of causing any damage.


Anaerobic sealer is the one that is suppose to be used, its not just recommended.


Now has anyone reported issues with using ultra-black RTV .... not that I am aware of. But that doesn't mean it hasn't been an issue in the past.
 
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Anaerobic sealer has several advantages. It doesn't leave hardened strings of RTV that have squeezed out of the joints. It will cure, adhere, and seal even if there are traces of oil left on the joint or constantly leaking onto the joint (sump). It has much greater adhesion than RTV.
Loctite 510 hardens and is specified for rigid, doweled joints such as the Transmission Case.
Loctite 518 cures to a "hard rubber" consistency and is specified for those joints that flex because of the unequal expansion rates (dissimilar metals).
RTV will work just as well if the surface is perfectly clean and dry (in the absence of "Must Use Anaerobic Sealer Warnings"). Loctite 518 is more forgiving. Also, as BrApple pointed out, any "floating pieces" will not be solid.
 
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