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Timing Chain Slack / Noise

Danef150

CEG'er
Joined
Jun 6, 2006
Messages
48
Location
Louisiana
So I got everything bolted together and timed up. Everything looked good the timing chain marks matched up and everything looked as pictured. I had cylinder 1 at tdc and went to turn it over by hand to check things out. We'll the timing chain has slack and makes a clacking noise is this normal until the tensioner get oil from the pump? It also feels like it binds when it transitions from tension to slack. It only does this on the outer timing chain. When I put extra tension on the guide with a screw driver most but not all of the noise goes away.
Thanks.
 
I think i got what u're trying to ask. Yes, the "clank" is normal. As you hand turn the crank, it tenses up & frees up. In other words it goes like this: Tenses up slightly - Clank - And "free" spin. Repeat. As for the slack, they should be on top in between the cams. That's normal as well.
 
We'll the timing chain has slack and makes a clacking noise is this normal until the tensioner get oil from the pump? It also feels like it binds when it transitions from tension to slack. It only does this on the outer timing chain. When I put extra tension on the guide with a screw driver most but not all of the noise goes away.
Thanks.
have you removed the pin from the tensioner, did you use one ? (to hold the plunger in the retracted position)

When i do this job, i put a pin in the tensioner to allow easy assembly, then as soon as you remove the pin, the chain goes very tight. Without pinning the tensioner plunger back it should be almost impossible to get the bolts in ... unless you're doing allsorts of prying and stuff.

Did you prime the tensioner with oil before installation ?

i suggest you take the outer chain tensioner off ... pump it up with oil.... check its operation .... then re-install using a pin to allow easy installation ... remove the pin and expect the tensioner to push hard on the guide and take up all the slack on the chain....... it is possible that the force of the tensioner on the guide will cause the chain/ camshaft assembly to rotate the engine slightly.

MAKE SURE THAT THE TENSIONER IS WORKING PROPERLY BEFORE INSTALLING THE ENGINE .....it's a lot of work going back after assembly, to put it right.

Do not start the engine with a slack chain .... unless you're up for a coin toss ....G.
 
I don't think it's that bad g. There's always a wee bit of slack in the chains until you turn the crank, then it tightens up. I figured he's got this far into his swap without posting a question, so he must have a pretty good idea of what he's doing. I just went through all this myself, so it's still all fresh in my mind. Then again, nuthn wrong with double checking everything before closing it all up.
 
point taken ... just trying to give the very best advice

Must say though, i have never needed a screwdriver to take slack out of the chains ....G.
 
They were brand new motorcraft tensioners. I did not prime them nor did I know you had to. I didn't see it in the factory build manual.

You can submerge the tensioner in oil and push down on the plunger, this will push air out and draw oil into the tensioner.

You could also prime the engine's oil system by rotating the engine by hand until the oil is drawn up and around the whole engine (spark plugs out. accessory belts off). Professional builders always do this.

Brand new parts are just that, brand new.... that doesn't mean they don't need checking or preparing for installation. The Ford manual doesn't tell you all the things you see and learn from experience ..G.
 
Pretty sure turning over by hand will not draw the oil through the filter and to the parts. It takes about 50 RPM just to pull oil into the pump.

Take the plugs out and spin the motor with the starter for 30 seconds. Put them in and start it and it will be fine.
 
Pretty sure turning over by hand will not draw the oil through the filter and to the parts. It takes about 50 RPM just to pull oil into the pump.

Take the plugs out and spin the motor with the starter for 30 seconds. Put them in and start it and it will be fine.

i've used the starter motor method myself ... but i didn't have a chain with enough slack to concern me.

Interested in the 50 rpm statement.

Good to know if confirmed, for when i build my 3.0L. ... might seek out a crank handle and weld a socket on it. Anyone 100% sure on that situation.

I had planned to prime it manually turning the engine over by hand. Thanks for the advice.

how did you get on ? ...G
 
I went on a little mini vacation with my family this weekend and did not get to work on it. I will try hand priming it with a wrench first just for good measure then turn it over with the plugs removed as stated above.
 
I will try hand priming it with a wrench first just for good measure then turn it over with the plugs removed as stated above.

is your motor already fully assembled ?

I'd be interested to know if you leave the outer tensioner off when you hand crank ... to see if you manage to get oil to pump out of the tensioner oil feed hole... if you don't mind making a little extra work for yourself, thanks ....G..
 
Ive got the timing cover and tty crank bolt installed. The only thing I'm waiting on is a new style oil pickup so that I can install my oil pan. I think it will be evident though if it primes because the noise should go away if the tensioners prime.
 
Ive got the timing cover and tty crank bolt installed. The only thing I'm waiting on is a new style oil pickup so that I can install my oil pan. I think it will be evident though if it primes because the noise should go away if the tensioners prime.
Hmmm, is your oil pressure sender installed ? oil coming out of that hole would definately prove oil was rising ...G.
 
well if you don't mind, would you try to get oil up there by hand cranking .... a very useful bit of info. for the forum ....G.
 
Gorman, I got the car started yesterday. And I don't think I would have ever gotten the oil primed by hand. I turned the motor over before connecting the fuel for about 30 seconds several times and the pump primed itself. All noise and slack has since gone away and the engine runs well. At least as well as an unturned 3.0 in a cougar running 24# injectors can. It doesn't like to idle but I fixed that for now by placing a rubber hose between the throttle and idle adjustment screw.
 
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