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Gonna race my E0 in SCCA! Need Help from CEG !!

jandungle

CEG'er
Joined
Nov 27, 2013
Messages
65
Location
Monroe, Louisiana
Waddup CEG

Im gonna live the dream and im going to enter my E0 into the SCCA Class G.
I would like to know if I could maybe get some sponsorship from anyone here??
I would gladly place your logos on my daily driver and do whatever I would have to do to stay in good standing with said sponsors. A brief history of my driving history Taught myself to drive a standard when i was 8 by stealing my sisters 82 Ford Mustang turbo(4 cyl turd). Was a 19 Kelo (Armor Crewman, I drove M1A1's) In the army National Guard " 19 kilos lead the way while the others stay back and pray" Tried my hand with drifting when I picked up a 1990 Nissan 240 but found out in a hurry that it was a rich mans sport. My best friend and "crew chef" is a 15 year veteran Tech for Dodge.
We have the car and the know-how and the will to win, all we need is some sponsors!:laugh:
 
well for G Street there isnt much you can change so you really dont need sponsors for parts, you just need seat time. best thing to do is go out and have fun

drifting doesnt have to be a rich mans sport. a guy i autox with drifts his miata on the cheap and has a blast
 
any sport can be a rich man sport it all depends on what level you want to compete at. even entry level door to door like spec miata can need up to 7 to 8 grand to be competitive. a friend of mine who is currently acing Spec here on the east cost right now is going through 2 sets of toyo race tires for the average race. He though has a tire rack sponsorship and is part of the mazda race contingency program so that helps. but to get most sponsorships it not about being out there its about being in the top three on a national stage. that you can take to the people and buy your way into some sponsors. good luck and get in the seat and drive. thats the best mod you can do that and a cg clip..
 
When I drifted my 240 I would go through 2 sets of tires a day. Granted they were used but @ 45 bucks a peace they put a dent in your play money. As for the fun part the only thing I have done that is in the range of the adrenaline rush of pulling a bigsmoke 90 degree drift in front of a bunch of gear heads and fan boys is jumping out of a plane. I hope this race thing pans out for me because as you can see i am a adrenaline junkie and speed/winning is my fix :=-)
 
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street or stock class has allot of limitations but you can do a few things most dont to be competitive. I will break it down top things that matter. Suspension, Aftermarket shocks(a long as they dont have more than 2 adjustment points), max out your negative camber on a laser level with you in the seat, camber bolts are allowed as long as it was a factory non-race option to help coreect camber or in your case increase, your can change the rear for a bigger one, you can change the front sway but most FWD street cars remove or replace with a smaller bar too decrease understeer and increase traction. Brakes, any pad you want front or back but thats it. no slotted rotors, SS brake lines, ect. Yet its not needed, a good set of pads (hawk, EBC), fresh DOT brake fluid, a good bleed, then learning to brake like a man will make all the difference. If your not tripping or almost tripping the abs your not braking hard enough. Tires, well this has changed recently. it use to be you can run dot race tires in this class but a large increase in accidents do to these compounds getting stickier and the want to balance out the classes( In short people running SM got tired of losing to stock miatas with just a little work) have changed that. So because of this you have to run a tire that has a tread rating of 140 or higher and in 2015 200 or higher. you can increase or decrease the size of you rim by 1 inch but offset and width must stay the same. Engine, You have your choice of air filter, oil, cat back(this most of the time means axle back due to it stating that you must retain stock cats or like equipment)oil filter, silicone hoses, any plugs, wires, any non adjustable distributor, and thermostats. As for machine work you can do minimum and maximum porting, blocking shaving,and refurbishing as stated in the factory manual. As you can figure out most people have used a gray interpretation of this rule to shave heads for increased compression, open up ports , reduce engine mass ect. Beyond what is stated above any other engine stuff is out ie no ud pulleys, engine swaps ect. now the Body. You can and should weld in a roll bar and if you have the money get a bolt in roll cage.( check my wording here you can't have a weld in cage just a bar. there is a few pages on building bars and cages to spec in your class just know it will make a world of a difference.) optional package swap between models of the same year. so you can remove the stock heavy leather/motorized interior for one that is light weight from a base. last but not least anything that is not permanently bolted down and lose may be removed. this is also a gray area so tread lightly. you can also add a 5+ point harness but you must retain the stock belts. if you do not wish to use such I Highly recommend a CGclip. The day of the race i recommend a complete cleaning of the car, remove anything not tied down, fold the rear seats flat, add a extra qt of oil, and run half a tank of gas. don't expect to win your first time(unless no one is in your class) and hope they bump the focus ST out of your class by next year. good luck
 
You're looking to run autocross and are looking for sponsors and you're running in a stock class? Why would you need a sponsor for a stock car? Only thing you'll likely get is advice, probably not money or free parts.
 
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