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Which is better and Why

Cheif Steele

CEG'er
Joined
Feb 18, 2014
Messages
43
Location
Southern ILL
So i will be going to play in a big sand box for awhile and will have some extra cash, so its time to make the engine swap. So the question is which is better a straight 3L, 3L (hybrid), 3l turbo. I am leaning toward the hybrid. thoughts and comments please.
 
No hybrid. Full 3L if you never want a shop to work on your car ever again. Ported 3L if you want it to look stock.
 
A turbo will set you back nearly 6 grand by the time you get it done right, and that is doing the work yourself. Not recommended unless you put rods and pistons in it.
 
The hybrid gets a bit messy with having to swap heads/timing plus 11.2 compression is NOT FI friendly. If you don't mind porting the heads out for the 2.5L intakes it makes maintenance down the road MUCH easier (for you and anyone you would ever sell it to). HP numbers are similar for both ported and full builds. They do have a pretty wide range and mods make a difference. The newer motors (04+ 3Ls) seem to put out a bit more hp on the dyno so I'd try to stick to those. Here are some dyno numbers from 3L builds: http://www.newcougar.org/forums/3-0...51-3-0l-dyno-plot-sheets-post-yours-here.html

Good luck!
 
ok so the 3L with the Ported heads with the 2.5L intakes sounds nice and keeps the stock look. I think that is what I am going to go with. Unless someone talks me out of it...
 
Why is that?

It all comes down to personal preference. The full swap avgs 5-10hp more than the split. But of course in the real world of driving, you don't feel the difference. In simplistic terms, if you want the stock look & simpler modifications along the way, go with the split port. Tune won't be needed as well, although recommended.
 
Why is that?

More power. I have every bolt on: intake, MSDS headers, y pipe, cat back. I also have a custom tune, and I'm a touch under 200HP at the wheels. You gain nothing going port matched other than looks. If you aren't in a state that regulates the engine model in your car, there isn't much of a reason not to go full 3L.
 
Power band is also in a more "usable" range for a full 3.0L. Flatter and more broad....easier for DD.
 
More power. I have every bolt on: intake, MSDS headers, y pipe, cat back. I also have a custom tune, and I'm a touch under 200HP at the wheels. You gain nothing going port matched other than looks. If you aren't in a state that regulates the engine model in your car, there isn't much of a reason not to go full 3L.

I'm sure you misspoke, & didn't mean you gain nuthn;). It's a 3L which comes with more power anyway you slice it. Like i said, you get more power with the full swap. But i'm sure i'm speaking on behalf of many of us who have port matched 3ls; The black plastic intake is just hideous. You can have that extra 10ponies if i get to keep the svt intakes:D.
 
There are no facts to prove that full 3L makes more power than a ported 3L build. There never has been. Just because the 3L you bought is low on power doesn't mean the ported build is the cause for your lower power numbers. I already posted a link showing dyno results that show each build type can vary wildly. A ported 3L can make just as much if not more power than any full 3L build. There are/were quite a few ported builds pushing over 220whp which is difficult in either build type.

The selection SHOULD NOT be based on power output! It should be based on what the installer prefers (2.5L intakes/porting vs. 3L intakes/custom throttle brackets, egr, fuel rail, wiring, vacuum lines, etc)
 
There are no facts to prove that full 3L makes more power than a ported 3L build. There never has been. Just because the 3L you bought is low on power doesn't mean the ported build is the cause for your lower power numbers. I already posted a link showing dyno results that show each build type can vary wildly. A ported 3L can make just as much if not more power than any full 3L build. There are/were quite a few ported builds pushing over 220whp which is difficult in either build type.

The selection SHOULD NOT be based on power output! It should be based on what the installer prefers (2.5L intakes/porting vs. 3L intakes/custom throttle brackets, egr, fuel rail, wiring, vacuum lines, etc)

Can you link me to the port matched 220whp builds?
 
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Don't have to keep the black intake.
 
Can you link me to the port matched 220whp builds?

My car made 215whp with stock TB, stock intakes, mail tune, and a MSDS y-pipe which I have since swapped for a BAT piece. I think with ported SVT intake manifolds, 65mm TB, and a dyno tune I could easily hit 225, but I just don't care. It scoots plenty good to put a hurting on those straight 3L swaps. :laugh:

They all make about the same power depending on supporting mods, tune, and overall attention to detail. I am in the same camp as BAD SVT in that I can't stand those plastic intakes manifolds :p
 
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