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98 1/2 - 99 Contour 2.0 Zetec By-Passing the A/C Compressor Pulley

Bandit2

New CEG'er
Joined
Nov 1, 2013
Messages
13
Location
Metro-West , Mass.
Hi
I just installed a timing belt kit on the wife's 98 1/2 -99 2.0 thanks to all the great How Too post on here , plus the discount from here at Rock Auto .
I don't like the feel of the A/C Compressor Pulley and want to by-pass it for a couple of months till I can install a new compressor ( Bone Yards are $ 75. to $ 100. with 140 + miles on them ) I have also read that the by-pass pulley kit's break ?
I read the many threads here on the subject , and picked up a 790K6 belt ( 78.94 in. ) , it is Way Too Big , the stock belt is just shy of 83 in. .
I was just wondering if anyone had a number for a by-pass belt ? I would wrap a string on it ,but it is pouring out here and I wanted to try and finish up without 1/2 a dozen trips to Auto-Bone in the morning .
Thanks
Bob
 
Thanks for the heads up , I had found that thread last night .
I tried the 680K6 belt this morning , its still too long , heading out to pick up a a by-pass pulley just to have it , as I can all ways return it on Tues. with the holiday weekend coming up plus the rain , I would rather be safe then sorry .
Bob
 
Just called the guy I got the car from as I knew he had a" parts car " in the back yard , Mystique V-6 and according to the " Similar Threads " below , his A/C won't fit , but I can have the 15 in Brake Assembly and wheels . :D
So I will just install the Car-Quest Pulley between the rain drops tomorrow ( I really miss my shop ) , it was a lot more $$ then Auto-Bone & Advance , but looked like better quality .
Bob
 
I bypassed my Belt last summer do to the compressor locking up and leaving me stranded, the size of the belt with the AC bypass was to long. The dummies at Auto-Zone said that, that's happened in the past when people tried bypassing their AC compressor,(having the wrong size) I had to go back to Autozone (45 Minute drive one way) and got a belt 2" and 3" shorter then what they side I needed. I believe I used the 2" shorter belt and returned the other one. That was done last August, haven't had any problems since. Hope my experience is helpful. I have a 1999 Zetec, but my motor is from a 1998.
 
Hi Mikey
Thanks for the heads up , I am only 10 min. and 15 min. from two Auto- Bones and I only use them as a last resort on Sunday's and Holidays , as My prices from Car Quest are Usually Better on Hard Parts .
I did end up using the By-Pass Pulley with the Original Belt , and it tracks perfectly .

As to the timing belt , I just used a 3/8 extension to find TDC on # 1 and the Back of The Cam Tool from Massive Speed with a little typewriter white out to mark the Crank Pulley and Top of Cam's ( made it real easy to stop close to TDC every time ) .
The car runs Great , the only problem is an Oil Leak dripping from somewhere on the front of the motor ( 1 qt. every 100 mi. ) , and I can not see where it is coming from without removing a few parts . LOL I can see the sides and back of the Valve Cover and there dry ( Camshaft Seals leaking down the front ? Oil Pan Gasket ?) . I have had the valve cover off a couple of times , and found the # 4 spark swimming in oil ( Fel-Pro Gsk. ) so it is leaking to the inside chamber . So I have just ordered the Victor one for $ 10.00 more then the Fel-Pro Valve Cover Gasket I used .

For the Record , My timing belt didn't break , but I believe it jumped time , as I only found 1/4 of the bushing inside the timing belt tensioner .

The other question I have , with around 600 mi. on the new belt , the first 300 mi. it rode in the center , then it moved to the inside , now at around 600 mi. it is on the outside of the pulley ? but it has never gone past the edge , just runs right on it .
Bob
 
Hi Mikey
No it's the " New " Timing Belt , it is running right on the outside edge of the pulley's , instead in the center of the pulley's .
According to notes in the forum , if the belt moves to the outside , it is too tight .
Just waiting for my " Goodie Boxes " to arrive from Rock Auto , so I can run it without the belt and stick my mirror and light in there to search for the source of the oil leak before replacing the Idler Pulley .
Bob
Unless it an emergency , or someone else's car LOL , I have been ordering my parts from Rock Auto since Advance Auto Parts Bought Car Quest , the Wholesale Prices have Really Jumped , they use to be with in pennies of Rock Auto .
Ex. For a 2000 Toyota Camry 02 Sensor I just changed .
Denso ( O/E ) # 2344137
Rock Auto $ 49.89 Ordered Thurs. @ 4:00 , Received Sat. @ 11:00 am normal postage
Advance Auto $ 109.99 Special Order
Car Quest was $ 149.00 One Day
O'reilly $ 81.99 Special Order
I charged my neighbor $ 100.00 ( and I get to keep the paid for special tool set and $ 15.00 )
 
I have no clue when it comes to timing belts, mine went out at like 130,000 miles, (100k) on motor, I had it fixed at a shop. I'm hoping I don't have to worry about it going it going out the rest of the cars life lol
 
Hi Mikey
It really isn't that bad if You watch some of the videos that are out there , pick out the one or two good ones , and read up on the how too change a timing belt articles . Dayco's , ZX2Fast's , and 2 CarPro's .
http://www.2carpros.com/questions/ford-contour-1998-ford-contour-timing-belt-proceedures
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?52739-VCT-Zetec-Timing-Belt-Replacement.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OTHscKUeopg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzL7u9TZ3WY
Once you put it up on stands , remove the passenger side tire and inner fender panels and motor mount , it isn't too bad of a job ( two to three hours ) .
I don't move as fast as I use too , but working as a Diesel Truck Mechanic for 9 1/2 years , A " Road Mechanic " for a large Air Compressor Company for eight years covering All of New England ( Mills, Ski Areas ,Quarry's etc. ) maintaing there portable fleet , plus owning my own compressor company since 1987 might of helped me understand what I was doing LOL .
Bob
 
I don't move as well as I used to either lol, I would probably try to attempt do it, with the right supervision when the time would come again. (I'm hoping I wouldn't have to). It would defiantly save a lot on labor cost
 
I don't see how your old bones would be bothering You ?
As I see You are from the SOUTH . LOLROF
When we head out in the direction of New Mexico , Colorado , Arizona , Colorado , and Utah , I will try to remember to throw the timing tool in the Maxi-Van .
 
I have 40 years on You . LOL
After I finish the Contour , I am going to tackle the oil pump and check the lower end on our Dodge Maxi-Van .
Our plans are to meet some members on another forum on there Gold Claim near Truth or Consequences New Mexico in early Sept. , meet up with our daughter in Denver for the Florida / Georgia Line concert on her B-Day .
Head over to Arizona to camp 9 1/2 mi. out in the Mohave Desert at a Gold Mining Club's Campground while playing another 3 1/2 mi. farther in on there 3800 acre gold claim .
Spend Christmas with our daughter , fly back to Boston for Dr. visits , then back to Arizona and Leave for home around St. Paddy's Day via. Denver/Utah .

Bob
 
As long as belt only flirts with pulley edge it's OK, it CANNOT go over the edge, that frays it and then it wanders even more. Walking is the evidence of too tight tension, the extra lets the belt bite in more to walk since not much guiding belt there. Any fraying then bumps up belt and more friction there too.

Do NOT re-loosen tensioner and set again, it only reads correct on a brand new unrun belt. The belt loosens a bit in the first ten minutes of use and expected. Readjusting tensioner then for sure is TOO TIGHT. A common mistake.

Does not matter at all where belt rides as long as it stays off the edge to not fray. Looking for middle of pulley is a mistake. If it goes there fine but if not trying to get it to do so is what DNFs most early fail belts.
 
Hi AMC49
Thanks for the heads up on the belt , thats what's so great about this forum .
Just out of curiosity , if you have to remove and re-install a run in belt , where do you set the adjuster it ?
Bob



























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Technically according to Ford you probably change the belt....................I would use tensioner again, just backed off a bit more. The belt runs somewhat loose, at least loose enough to trick many into overtightening it. You can actually pull on off the motor with no tools whatever if you are so inclined, I've done it. The VCT allows enough movement to do so. When well into the belt's life, if you stop engine often there is a small amount of slack that gets taken up as soon as engine starts and VCT pumps up.
 
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