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time for new suspension components

MadDog

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Jul 27, 2012
Messages
618
Location
Augusta, GA
I figure its time to get serious again. I have a 2000 CSVT with 230,000 miles, all original suspension parts. The car has been gently used, but it is time for an upgrade (both front and back).

After doing research, I settled on the BAT parts set:
Euro Handling Kit (K400A)
Strut Boots w/bump stops (2xM405B and 2xK405BR)
Upper strut mounts (2xK404F, 2xK404R)
Rotating bearing fronts (2xK403).

From what I can see under the car, there is no obvious wear, bending or damage to other parts of the suspension. However, given the mileage on the car, should I automatically consider replacing other parts ? I know, for example, the lower rear arm has an upgrade in the form of the Massive part. While I don't plan on racing this vehicle, if I am going to replace parts, I might as well upgrade while I am at it.

If I had the know-how and time I would go for the rear sub-frame upgrade and 21mm sway bar, but thats not realistic (yet).

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
why is it unrealistic to do a rear subframe upgrade? its 4 bolts to take it out, and if you cant weld, or dont have the equipment, any shop worth a dam can do it quickly and easily
 
Last summer I did the BAT euro kit with all four new upper mounts and lower control arms. winter came and now I need everything I suggusted to you. I would just get everything done while you're in there it really won't take that much more time to do.
 
OK, lets see if I understand correctly..... right now, I am looking at the Ford factory manual, at the exploded parts diagram for the front and rear suspension and the steering.

"lower control arms" = Lower arm (front suspension, part#6) ?
"end links" = ???? (sway bar links and bushings like from PRT ?)
"outer tie rod ends" = part #4, 5 on the steering diagram ?

Sorry if these are dumb questions, but obviously I havnt done this before.

As for dropping the sub-frame, that very much appeals to me as doing the right thing. However, I havnt welded since 8th grade shop class (lets be charitable and say that was a few years ago), and more importantly, this is my daily driver.

Mad Dog
 
Yup front lower control arms with the new lower ball joint included. I can't comment on the subframe but I would take Jaged's advice if you can just drop the frame take it a shop and have them do the work.

endlinks you are correct swaybar end links both front and rear also called stabilizer bar links. Sorry I dont have my manual in front at work so posted up part numbers so that you could go to rock auto and verify.

MOOG Part # K8852 this is the front end links

MOOG Part # K80458 this is the rear end links

MOOG Part # CK80389 front right lower control arm

MOOG Part # CK80390 front left lower control arm

MOOG Part # ES3471 front right outer tie rod end

MOOG Part # ES3470 front left outer tie rod end
 
[Mad Dog is furiously writing all this down....]

OK, thanks for the tips. From what I have read, once you start messing with the LCA, don't you need some special tools ? I feel pretty confident about the rear suspension parts, but the fronts look a little trickier.

I may just have to find a second CSVT so I can learn to wrench without fear.

I was thinking about the rear subframe - I know you can buy new ones on Ebay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/321189866401?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649).... maybe I should just nut up and buy it and plan on doing the subframe.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
Thanks for the link. SO thats a pickle fork......

Maybe I should pick up the BAT strut tower brace while I am spending $$$ like a drunken sailor.

Mad Dog
 
Yup you're welcome. When I did mine one came out with a couple blows from a BFH the other fought till we took a pickle fork to it.

About the upper brace, i would search around I thought I read somewhere (here or NECO) that it was mostly for looks but I would contact someone who tracks thier car to see if any change would be felt on the street. Or if you want it then by all means get it :)
 
The Moog front ball joint looks different from the BAT ball joint (that sounds really funny). Any difference for a 2000 CSVT ?

Contour-R-Us, when you say "I would also suggest front and rear sway bar bushings as well", you mean something like the PRT CDW-27 Rear Swaybar Link & Bushing Upgrade Kit - or just the actual poly bushings ?

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
The Moog front ball joint looks different from the BAT ball joint (that sounds really funny). Any difference for a 2000 CSVT ?

Contour-R-Us, when you say "I would also suggest front and rear sway bar bushings as well", you mean something like the PRT CDW-27 Rear Swaybar Link & Bushing Upgrade Kit - or just the actual poly bushings ?

thanks,

Mad Dog

I was referring to the bushings for the bar (front and rear) themselves. ES (energy suspension) has these bushings as well as poly to replace the stock rear swaybar end link bushings - you retain your stock end links or go new stock end links, just the bushings are changed out from soft to poly). The PRT end links are very desirable, but mucho $$$$ These changes I mention will make a huge difference in the driving experience - been there, done that. All with a very minimal outlay of $$$.

All ball joints for the 'Tour/Mystique are the same from '95 thru 2000 model year, regardless if 2 bolt LCA's or 4 bolt LCA's. Moog pn# K8683. Pictures are deceiving, no change for your 2000 SVT.
 
OK, maybe I should slow down a bit. Never having done this before, my head is swimming trying to learn all the parts required. I think I should concentrate on the rear suspension for the moment. So, what I think I need:

Euro Handling Kit (K400A) $640
Strut Boots w/bump stops (2xM405B and 2xK405BR) $70
Upper strut mounts (2xK404F, 2xK404R) $145
Rotating bearing fronts (2xK403) $55

(might as well get the material for the fronts at the same time and avoid extra shipping costs)

BAT 21mm sway bar + bushings (K408A), $135

rear sub frame (new, Ebay $190) <---- ok, 2 days after I post the link, the last 2 sold almost immediately. Coincidence ? :\

Massive rear lower arms $200 or PRT, $210

Energy Suspension front and rear swaybar bushings (2 x21mm rear, nongreasable, part #9.5125 for 21mm sway bar, although CSVT#49 suggests 22mm ?) (replaces BAT bushings) $40

swaybar links (PRT, $50) OR BAT K408S ($35) OR Moog K80458 ($50)

I think I did my homework. I can probably scavenge off a rear subframe from a junkyard, and learn in the process.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
Can anyone confirm if the Energy Suspension 21mm bushings (nongreasable, part #9.5125) are correct for the 21mm BAT sway bar ?

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
I would NOT use these Energy Suspension bushings, only because they are designed to fit within the metal brackets supplied by Energy Suspension. I have no way of know if they will fit the Contour rear sway bar brackets, which are shaped differently. I would use the BAT avaialble bushings; besides they are cheaper than the Energy Suspension bushings. That is not to say the Energy Suspenion bushings you cite here will NOT fit the stock Contour rear sway bar brackets - more of the "safe vs sorry" thing.
 
OK, thanks for the advice. I will email BAT and see if they have everything I need in stock. Time to get serious.

thanks,

Mad Dog
 
i have those energy suspension bushings, but i also modified the subframe to make them work, but mine are greasable
 
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