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LCA questions - V6 and MTX

delkra

CEG'er
Joined
Aug 11, 2009
Messages
77
Location
Delaware
So I am trying to do the R&R on the driver's side LCA and I got a couple questions.

I know I need to either a) lower the subframe or b) cut the bolt and install it upside down. I want to do it the "right" way, with method "a", but I need some help before I get started:

1) What can I use in place of Ford tool T94P - 2100 - AH, the subframe alignment pins?
2) Where can I find new steering knuckle pinch bolts? Or can I just use some replacement? The Ford manual says use new bolts or "personal injury will result", LOL...

Any help appreciated!

-Delkra
 
Having done this twice now...I'd honestly suggest cutting the bolt and installing it upside down with loctite and call it a day. But if you want to do it the other way, you don't need the alignment tool as you only are lowering one side...the other side doesn't need to be touched and you retain the alignment.

One thing to think about: The carriage botls that secure the subframe (which you will need to loosen to lower the subframe) often break the nut loose in the frame when you try to loosen them. Then you have to go through quite some hassle to secure them and keep them from spinning.

Your LCA's should come with new pinch bolts...
 
Having done this twice now...I'd honestly suggest cutting the bolt and installing it upside down with loctite and call it a day. But if you want to do it the other way, you don't need the alignment tool as you only are lowering one side...the other side doesn't need to be touched and you retain the alignment.

One thing to think about: The carriage botls that secure the subframe (which you will need to loosen to lower the subframe) often break the nut loose in the frame when you try to loosen them. Then you have to go through quite some hassle to secure them and keep them from spinning.

Your LCA's should come with new pinch bolts...

HA! You are right, my friend, the LCA's came with fresh pinch bolts. Ugh, teaches me to look through all the packing material before I start throwing things out! :laugh: Thank you so much for mentioning it!

So, if I choose option b (cutting the bolt), do I just grind the head off? Also, what kind of bolt do I replace it with? I assume a grade 10.9, but is that bolt "special"?
 
I ordered the proper bolts from Ford...as the use the proper hardness and also those killer nuts with the hard plastic "liner" to keep the nuts from backing out...

I used a sawzall with I think titanium tipped blades. The normal blades didn't even scratch the surface. The titanium blades and some heavy preasure still took one whole blade per bolt. Remember you only cut the front bolt on the drivers side (if its a 2 bolt LCA). I think the passenger side comes out with some wiggling...I don't know if a grinder will work or not. Depends if there's room enough for it.

I've never done the 4 bolt LCAs.
 
When I have drop the subframe for control arms both sides had to be dropped. As for the alignment tool just get something that fits in the alignment hole, or visually line it up.


Also I have never heard about replacing the pinch bolts for the ball joints, nor have I ever gotten now bolts with new Ford control arms. I have always reused the bolts.


As for the spinning nuts for the subframe, if one is patient and works the bolts out with care they should come out just fine.
 
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When I have drop the subframe for control arms both sides had to be dropped. As for the alignment tool just get something that fits in the alignment hole, or visually line it up.


Also I have never heard about replacing the pinch bolts for the ball joints, nor have I ever gotten now bolts with new Ford control arms. I have always reused the bolts.


As for the spinning nuts for the subframe, if one is patient and works the bolts out with care they should come out just fine.

Thanks for the responses. I pulled 3 subframe to body bolts, the forward engine/trans insulator and the steering linkage bolt (inside cabin) and after that I just used a pry bar to pry the subframe down from the transmission case. That gave me enough room to get the LCA bolt out.

Now, I noticed a problem, though. I looked up the rear-facing side of the transmission and saw the attached. Take a look at the red circle. Something is missing there - but I have no idea what. Can anyone tell me what it is and where to get one??? There's always been some play in the left-right motion of the shifter, and now I think I know why... :eek:
 

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It's a rubber bushing that falls out commonly. Svttour usually has some complete cable ends lying around you could buy and replace that entire white piece, some members have mentioned using a properly sized piece of rubber hose works too.
 
Seriously? It is just a little rubber deal? Wow. I'd be kinda' scared about what would happen if that slipped off while driving. It controls the forward-backward motion of the shifter, so it'd be stuck in whatever gear you were in.

Anyhow, I just realized that my manual says I need to remove the entire steering rack in order to just replace the inner tie rod ends... Is that really true? Anyone ever do it without removing the rack? Any good or bad experiences?

My inner tie rods could use to be replaced, but if I have to pull the whole freakin' rack just for that, maybe I'll leave 'em.

-Delkra
 
Seriously? It is just a little rubber deal? Wow. I'd be kinda' scared about what would happen if that slipped off while driving. It controls the forward-backward motion of the shifter, so it'd be stuck in whatever gear you were in.

Anyhow, I just realized that my manual says I need to remove the entire steering rack in order to just replace the inner tie rod ends... Is that really true? Anyone ever do it without removing the rack? Any good or bad experiences?

My inner tie rods could use to be replaced, but if I have to pull the whole freakin' rack just for that, maybe I'll leave 'em.

-Delkra

No...that's not true. You can get at them with the rack in the car. The biggest challenge is that some Ford inner tie rods do not have a flat surface for the inner tie rod tool (available at AZ) to grip and turn. Some have ground a flat surface onto them...some have cut and welded a flat surface (washers) to get them out. You won't know till you remove the rubber boots and look.

I had a shop here in Chicago do mine for $180 per side including new ITR. To me it was money well spent.
 
There is a different specialized tool that you must use on an inner tie rod with no flats. It looks like a muffler clamp, with teeth on the inside. You clamp it around the tie rod end and go. Easy peasy.
 

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There is a different specialized tool that you must use on an inner tie rod with no flats. It looks like a muffler clamp, with teeth on the inside. You clamp it around the tie rod end and go. Easy peasy.

That's slick! Available to rent anywhere? Or buy only...
 
That's slick! Available to rent anywhere? Or buy only...
I saw this post and went straight to Napa. 17 Bucks and it was in stock! Mine are completely round.

The manual makes it sound like you'll destroy the rack from the "high torque condition" unless you take it completely out. I can't really understand how putting the rack in bench vise and then twisting off the ITRs would change anything, but the work to get the rack out would make an ITR change cost like a grand in labor, LOL....
 
No reason to be scared of the shifter bushing falling out, it fell out on your car once already and you didn't even notice it was gone. If you're really concerned get down under there and try to pull it straight off, good luck, it won't move very far and certainly not off the shaft at all. All that bushing does is locate the cable end so there's no play in the shifter, without it you can move the shifter a decent amount back and forth in gear without disengaging the gear, but that's the only problem.

In fact, without the bushing alignment issues would probably be a lot less noticeable, I have an alignment issue that makes second gear wonky to get into and has led to some grinding especially when cold (Synchromax will fix this) and you can tell that with the extra play allowed by not having a bushing in there would actually help me in that instance.
 
So what's the verdict on the inner tie rod end removal? Sounds like shops just yank and replace...

Unless I have some major reason not to, I am just going to use that tool (exhaust clamp deal) and spin them off...

Anybody ever had an issue with the steering rack getting messed up from pulling the inner tie rod ends???

Thanks!
 
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