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04/05 Port matched setup -- do I have a complete shopping list?

Kresnik

CEG'er
Joined
Feb 12, 2008
Messages
212
Hello everyone!

I can get a good deal on an 04/05 Taurus motor to swap into my 2000 SVT. I read the forums here and at New Cougar and have put together a short list of necessities for this swap. I am a proper mechanic that has built a few motors, so tools and know-how should be accounted it. :)

What seems best for me, is to get the 04/05 motor, port-match it for the SVT intake manifold and to also swap in the SVT cams. With that in mind, here's the short-list of what I think that I need to make this happen. Please let me know if I'm right, wrong, and/or missing something. :)

3.0L Engine
Head gasket set (least expensive way to get all of the ones that I need)
Oil Pan gasket (Better now while the motor is out)
New SVT timing chain, guides, and tensioner
Porting plates & Coil Pack harness from hybridaction.com (?)


-- after the fact, I can look into a larger MAF, TB, and a proper tune. Since I'm staying as naturally aspirated, I don't believe that I'll need larger injectors (though a proper clean of the stockers might be good).

-- I removed this engine/transaxle in the fall to replace the transaxle, so I know that everything unbolts just fine. I already have headers, so no need to add 'em to the list.

-- Lastly, is there anything else that I should consider? This car is likely to remain naturally aspirated, so internal upgrades are out of scope/budget.

Thanks alot!
 
Looks like a good start. So you are buying the 'head gasket set' but won't be removing the heads or using the headgaskets, correct? Just bought the kit to use all the other gaskets, ie; timing cover, valve cover, intake, etc?
 
Looks like a good start. So you are buying the 'head gasket set' but won't be removing the heads or using the headgaskets, correct? Just bought the kit to use all the other gaskets, ie; timing cover, valve cover, intake, etc?

Correct. It'll cost under $100 to get all of the gaskets this way, and makes certain that I don't neglect anything. I could sell of the headgaskets to someone else on the cheap that needs 'em.

Otherwise, do I need anything else to swap from the 2.5L to a 3.0L and have a decent running (although not ideally tuned) ride?

Thanks!
 
Is it necessary to replace the chain unless it is damaged? Also what is the coil pack harness for? And one additional thing I would recommend changing depending on mileage/condition is the alternator. It's a lot easier to do out of the car than in the car.
 
Also what is the coil pack harness for? And one additional thing I would recommend changing depending on mileage/condition is the alternator. .


O yeah I wondered that too, no need for any coil pack relocation/harness.
 
Is it necessary to replace the chain unless it is damaged? Also what is the coil pack harness for? And one additional thing I would recommend changing depending on mileage/condition is the alternator. It's a lot easier to do out of the car than in the car.

My SVT motor has nearly 200k miles, and I'm not certain if the Taurus timing components will allow me to simply add the SVT cams in there without any hassle or headache. According to Rockauto, the Taurus timing chain has more links and a different pitch (144 8mm vs 122 3/8). If indeed I need to swap over all of the SVT contour stuff (timing gear, crank pulley, etc) then I'd much rather put a brand new chain in there than to hope the best for this one. Correct me if I'm wrong here, please.

As per the coil bracket, I am under the idea that the 04/05 valve covers are plastic and don't have the proper mounting spots for the coil, since they operate via COP. Or, can I simply reuse the SVT valve covers without issue? Mine are powdercoated, so it would be nice to reuse 'em.

I replaced the alternator about 5 years/60k miles ago. For me, I can get it in and out in pretty easily - my fingers are long and arms thin. It was a PITA, and if I have the funds for it, I would much rather do it 'now' than later for sure.

Thanks again everyone!
 
I'd stick with the 3L cams. I've done both swaps many times and I think the 3L cams are the way to go. Sticking with the 3L cams will save you a lot of time. I never noticed much of a difference. The 3L cams are supposed to provide more midrange power which is going to be more usable for most people. Up to you of course.
 
My SVT motor has nearly 200k miles, and I'm not certain if the Taurus timing components will allow me to simply add the SVT cams in there without any hassle or headache. According to Rockauto, the Taurus timing chain has more links and a different pitch (144 8mm vs 122 3/8). If indeed I need to swap over all of the SVT contour stuff (timing gear, crank pulley, etc) then I'd much rather put a brand new chain in there than to hope the best for this one. Correct me if I'm wrong here, please.

As per the coil bracket, I am under the idea that the 04/05 valve covers are plastic and don't have the proper mounting spots for the coil, since they operate via COP. Or, can I simply reuse the SVT valve covers without issue? Mine are powdercoated, so it would be nice to reuse 'em.

I replaced the alternator about 5 years/60k miles ago. For me, I can get it in and out in pretty easily - my fingers are long and arms thin. It was a PITA, and if I have the funds for it, I would much rather do it 'now' than later for sure.

Thanks again everyone!

Yes you are correct about not being able to mix timing components between the 3L cams and chains and the SVT's. I didn't realize the SVT was so high in miles, otherwise I would have just reused the chains bc they are pretty strong and lasting. Also you can use the 2.5 valve covers so no need to relocate the IMRC and coil pack.
 
Your '04/'05 valve covers are metal but you won't be using those covers with a port-matched 3L setup. You will use you 2.5L timing cover, 2.5L valve covers, 2.5L lower intake manifold, 2.5L injector/fuel rail, 2.5L upper intake manifold.
 
I'd stick with the 3L cams. I've done both swaps many times and I think the 3L cams are the way to go. Sticking with the 3L cams will save you a lot of time. I never noticed much of a difference. The 3L cams are supposed to provide more midrange power which is going to be more usable for most people. Up to you of course.

I've read a few times over that the SVT cams have a longer duration, more so on the exhaust side. The intake profile opens a hair more aggressively, and the off-set mobs advance the timing just a hair too. It's worth the effort and time, for me, to swap over the SVT cams that provide better potential at higher RPM. Compared to my GT Probe, the SVT Contour feels like a boat, so every bit of top-end umph I'm happy to entertain. :)

Otherwise, if I wanted it to be very simple then yea, I'd agree with you and keep the 3.0L cams and pawn off the SVT cams to help recoup costs.


ooh hey, I noticed that you're close to Minneapolis. I'm going to be there in a couple of months, is there a shop that you can recommend for a proper wide-band dyno tune?

Thanks! :)
 
Yes you are correct about not being able to mix timing components between the 3L cams and chains and the SVT's. I didn't realize the SVT was so high in miles, otherwise I would have just reused the chains bc they are pretty strong and lasting. Also you can use the 2.5 valve covers so no need to relocate the IMRC and coil pack.

Yea? That's good to know! Though, I gotta wonder if the valve cover gaskets are exactly the same between the 2.5L and 3.0L. I'm hoping to buy a single head gasket kit, which includes _everything_ for a much better price. Otherwise if I gotta mix and match.. :/

Thanks.
 

That's one of the articles that I ran across. A very good read, thanks for bringing it back to the forefront. I've looked at dyno charts on both here and neco, and generally see that SVT cams will carry the high RPMs better than the 3.0L - seemingly for the reasons stated there. Eventually, I will upgrade the throttle body & MAF and get a proper wide-band tune - so I am also considering that the SVT cams will later be properly and completely tuned.

Thanks again for the help and info. :)
 
Yea? That's good to know! Though, I gotta wonder if the valve cover gaskets are exactly the same between the 2.5L and 3.0L. I'm hoping to buy a single head gasket kit, which includes _everything_ for a much better price. Otherwise if I gotta mix and match.. :/

Thanks.

I bought the felpro kit designed for the 2.5L. Since I wasn't messing with the head gaskets themselves on the 3L I wasn't too concerned the kit had the 2.5 head gaskets, but I knew it would have all the gaskets for everything else properly fit. The only seal I bought extra IIRC was for the front crank timing seal bc for some reason I didn't have it in the kit.
 
I bought the felpro kit designed for the 2.5L. Since I wasn't messing with the head gaskets themselves on the 3L I wasn't too concerned the kit had the 2.5 head gaskets, but I knew it would have all the gaskets for everything else properly fit. The only seal I bought extra IIRC was for the front crank timing seal bc for some reason I didn't have it in the kit.

Get the 2.5L kit, good to remember - thanks! Normally seals below the head gaskets are included in conversion kits. In some applications it doesn't make any sense, but it is what it is. I'll make certain to remember to pick up that seal in addition to the kit. :)

Thanks again!
 
I'm doing my 3L build now and I purchased 3.0 front rear seals, oil pan gasket, UIM LIM gaskets, valve cover gaskets and everything was for the 3.0 EXCEPT THE UIM AND LIM GASKETS because I did a port match setup. I hope to have the build finished this Saturday. It's a real basic swap, the hardest part for me was the porting of the head. A guy on here sells the bugzuki plates you'll need. BUY 3! use the third to port to it makes it easier :) I'll send you a link of my build in detail. My Taurus motor I got had 100k miles so I just kept the heads ans 3.0 cams.
 
Also, as far as timing components go, you are most likely going to need to swap the chain guides too.
 
Also, as far as timing components go, you are most likely going to need to swap the chain guides too.

When it was mentioned to swap all timing components, I had assumed (correctly as it seems) that meant _everything_ - thanks for the extra clarification! Considering the mileage though, I'm going to purchase both new guides and a tensioner. I have an odd bouncing whirr noise when I release the clutch, which didn't go away when I replaced the both transaxle and the serpentine tensioner.. so I'm assuming that it's something internal and am preparing in accordance.

Thanks again everyone for the helpful feedback and info!
 
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