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what else can i do to this thing?

Redlineracer12 said:
BAT still sells them... I've got one of those and they are the same as the shoshop piece I believe. I kinda wish they had a better hanger setup like the MSDS Y did but oh well.

I think your money would be best invested in a solid NA dyno tune... Unless you plan on going FI yet this year.
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sigh...... READ MY POST FUGGERZ! lol.

i'm getting a sniper tuning special forces system (full adjustability, plug and play flasher type, much like an xcal PRP)


yeah i'm tuning it. thats why i said what hardware changes can i make (i.e. what parts can i upgrade still)
 
I wouldn't get Sniper. I would get Xcal 3, and then later on PRP. I am not sure how good it is for the Contour but everyone who has used it on zx2s has blown up, they were FI but one was only pushing 8psi which the zetec is known to take on a stock block all day with a semi solid tune.
 
I'm not 100% sure, that's what I said at first too but I think the first guy was helped out by sniper as it was a (horribly failed) promotion. All I know is that anyone with a modded zx2 wouldn't touch sniper with a 10 foot pole, I'm not saying Sniper is a bad unit, I just wanted to let you know some people's past experiences before you buy anything
 
2000ZxT said:
I'm not 100% sure, that's what I said at first too but I think the first guy was helped out by sniper as it was a (horribly failed) promotion. All I know is that anyone with a modded zx2 wouldn't touch sniper with a 10 foot pole, I'm not saying Sniper is a bad unit, I just wanted to let you know some people's past experiences before you buy anything
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FYI I read an article on the sniper software a while back and it is actually developed by a SCT engineer. I'd imagine it's similar. I'd look into more reviews online before I'd touch it though.
 
I wouldn't exactly consider 11.9 pig rich... unless that was just a blip and it was running much richer most of the time.

SVT cams I'd say would be worth a shot... not like that's an easy quick swap though.

Electric Water Pump will cost you 4-500 to get anything that will last for a considerable amount of time on a street car.

You could always get some custom pistons and bump up the CR into the 11:1 range.

E85 is probably more benefit on a FI car than NA, but it's still roughly 105 octane. However you'll most likely need to change injectors for E85 since you need around 30% more fuel.
 
Why get custom pistons? I've never checked the valve clearances on this car but I would imagine you can have the head decked for a considerable amount of compression gain.
 
yeah i'm afraid its getting to the point where going crazy-intricate on the thing is the only way to get substantial gains now. i'll probably save my dough for some boost. i'm going to start by upgrading the injectors and fuel pump, and tune it. i am going for the sniper software.
 
CrazyTalkSVT said:
So why don't we cut that mo fo out of there and weld a tube in its place?
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because my whole exhaust from teh Y pipe back is 2.5". i dont' need a 3" collector unless i up the size of my exhaust piping. that's not necessary. you'd have to look at my exhaust. not much room for improvement, unless i go true duals
 
TRicker said:
yeah. i guess i'll throw down for a set of UDP's, and see where i get with a tune. i really wanna make a 65mm TB work on this thing but i can't see that happening unless i go remote IAC.
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You won't have to....Once i finish my Part...i'll give you dibs on it first. Custom TB conversation kit. :)
 
2000ZxT said:
OK so it won't work why?
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It will but the gains weren't that noticeable for the amount of money he spent. IMHO.

Timeless420 shaved his 3L heads. Even though he currently has the highest 3L whp car. 236whp 216trq.

Fully balanced 2004 Escape Shortblock * Ross Racing Pistons @ 11.5:1 Compression * PnP Oval Port heads matched to split port manifolds * Clevite main and rod bearings * 24# Accel Injectors * MSDS headers/y-pipe (Coated by Fireball Coatings in Shelbourne, Ontario) * CTA Motorsports 2.5 inch Catback exhaust with Dynomax Ultraflow SS Muffler * Performance Designs Underdrive PS and ALT Pullies * Performance Fords Optimized LIM * Performance Fords UIM Alignment Bushings * Optimized 65mm Throttle Body * CTA Motorsports Intake Pipe * Pro-M Bullet 75mm MAF * K&N RU-1785 Filter * 3inch Dryer Hose Running From Front Bumper To Air Filter * Magnacore Competition 8.5mm Wires * Motocraft AGSF22FM plugs * SCT XCal Tuning by Steeda.ca

Steeda_Sept2305.jpg
 
yeah i'm not really looking to pull the engine again. i want to do everything i can with the engine in the car, so cams/heads mod is prob not a good idea
 
2000ZxT said:
OK so it won't work why?
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It may work... if you just mill a small amount, but it's really not the right way, or the best way to go.

Especially if you go too far you can cause all sorts of fun with the cam chains being tensioned properly and yada yada. Not to mention loss of mass in the head really isn't the best idea either.

If you wanna raise compression, get some pistons.
 
Barge said:
It may work... if you just mill a small amount, but it's really not the right way, or the best way to go.

Especially if you go too far you can cause all sorts of fun with the cam chains being tensioned properly and yada yada. Not to mention loss of mass in the head really isn't the best idea either.

If you wanna raise compression, get some pistons.
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i was just going to say that, i think you also change the cam timing slightly
 
well i just put a 65mm TB back on this thing, made an IAC block off plate, and made a remote IAC.

I tapped the two round holes in the IAC valve with a 3/8" NPT tap. then i threaded in two 3/8" NPT nipples, 2" long. then i slid 3/4" heater hose (the typical black stuff, for your cooling system etc) onto the end of it. got a barbed reducer for the intake end "3/8" and stuck that into an accordian tube for a v8 SHO, which fit my 90mm maf housing and 65mm TB ends almost perfectly. then i ran a 3/8" reducer to the intake side. i had to run a vaccum line for the "vaccum block" (heater, etc) to the passenger side of the intake, where i wasn't using one of the inlets on the UIM. The IAC is zip tied down away from view on two of the stainless brake lines right up against the firewall (should hold the little bit of weight no problem) and the vaccum block is just hanging in the balance (like it always was, but i will extend the small vaccum lines and run everything to the passenger side of the car like the taurus is)

all in all it was a cake walk, but it took forever. i had to modify a 60mm shaft to fit the bigger plate, and modify a 99' 3L throttle bracket to work. i'm a little leary about the strength of the TB bracket because i had to notch it out in a few spots. i might reinforce it a little bit if it tends to sag or anything, but i don't think it will. feels solid right now.

all in all, it looks clean as heck (as it did before). i even got the plastic TB bracket cover back on it, to make it look even more "factory". pics up later.

oh and yeah, it definately helped, and the remote IAC does its job pretty well. it does hang up in the 1500 rpm range for about three seconds when i let off the gas, then it will drop down to 750 rpm and idle solid as a rock. Air/fuel is good, per my wideband too.
 
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