Hey guys having trouble searched on here and looked on autozone website no help as of yet . Went to junk yard got regulator off 98 ford contour se drivers side same as my car. I broke my glass trying unattached old one so back to junk yard pita but got glass out back to car and some how the regulator is moving on track just lil bit didnt hook up glass yet whats the default position regulator should be in when window is down on track? I'm just really confused need this fix asap? is this something local shop would be able to do ie pep boys? I think I messed up this regulator also
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driver window regulator probs
- Thread starter james9290
- Start date
Aussie Ford
Hard-core CEG'er
It sound like you may have done some of these steps, but please read this whole thing incase you missed something. Sorry to hear you broke your window, and I'm sure you don't want to do that again.
Installing a window regulator:
For the first part of your question Auto Zone's web site has info on the removing of the window, but it is really incomplete. Here is additional info:
First remove the door trim cover. The first thing to do there is remove the window vent cover. I have this small thin blade knife with a sharp point I use to remove the screw cover on the vent cover. This is real hard to not mar it or scratch something. I hear new ones are available at a dealer. Once you get that out remove the screw and the vent cover.
Next remove the center of the door handle and the two screws for it. Becareful not to mar it either. Next pop out the screw cover on the front corner of the door this one is easy, remove the screw. Then on the outside edges remove the screw covers (if yours has them) one on the front edge, and two on the rear edge and bottom. Then the screws, 5 total. Next pop the screw cover out from the middle of the door handle pocket and remove that screw.
Remove the door handle bezel. This can be a problem I use a small screwdriver to pop out the door lock switch and then unfasten it. Then at the front edge by the master switch there is a spot that the bezel clips to the master switch, you must get that loose then there is a similar type clip just behind the door lock to get loose. If you break these the bezel will be loose, so take your time and be careful. I learned this on junk car so I'll admit I've busted a few. Once the bezel is off just pull the door panel from the bottom and it will come loose then lift up and off the door. Remove the window welt dont bend it. If it seems loose just pinch the part that goes on the door a bit to tighten it back up and fit good.
It takes me about 1/2 hour swap stuff out in a door now. Remove the speaker, and those speaker plugs always stick hard. I got so after removing the screws I just grab the speaker and give it a good yank then fix the inside of the clips. You may want to pry them off with a screwdriver. Remember you have to reinstall the vapor barrier so, I take a knife and after getting a spot started I pull and stretch the adhesive a bit then chase around the door with a knife cutting the sticky adhesive from the door as I pull. I do use a jumper battery w/ a 40 amp fuse, and a 18" long pig tail with a window motor connector on it. To change direction just swap the leads. Move the regulator to align the bolts with the holes in the door to remove the glass from the carrier. With yours at the bottom it is going to be more than a bit of trouble. Another thing you might try is to remove the four bolts for the track and the three bolts on the motor, and pushing the whole thing up. All those bolts use an 8mm socket. I would really try to raise the window using the switch and pulling or pushing up on the window to get it to align with the two holes in the door. After removing the spreadder bolts (14mm socket) removing the black plastic keeper clips from through the carrier and the glass, can be a PIA. They are three pronged and you must get them squeezed while reaching behind the glass with just your finger tips, then at the same time push them through the glass. Sometimes you get them almost flush with the back of the glass and they want to sitck there. Dammmm..... at this point I usually push on them with the side of a hard plastic screwdriver handle. IF you have gotten this all done you are in for the easy part. I would reinstall the window welt on the edge of the door and push the glass all the way up. I have found the glass will stay there most of the time while completing the rest of the work. If not wedge it in place. Then install your new regulator and motor. The carrier must be aligned with those holes to install the glass but you can hook up the motor and do that. You will see there is a clip on the outside of the carrier that the glass fits in. When properly placed the holes in the glass and carrier align. I use the 14mm socket to push the retainer clips in the carrier and glass then install the spreader bolts.
Put the door panel on and your good to go have an adult beverage, well I do. LOL
If you need additional info contact me.
Installing a window regulator:
For the first part of your question Auto Zone's web site has info on the removing of the window, but it is really incomplete. Here is additional info:
First remove the door trim cover. The first thing to do there is remove the window vent cover. I have this small thin blade knife with a sharp point I use to remove the screw cover on the vent cover. This is real hard to not mar it or scratch something. I hear new ones are available at a dealer. Once you get that out remove the screw and the vent cover.
Next remove the center of the door handle and the two screws for it. Becareful not to mar it either. Next pop out the screw cover on the front corner of the door this one is easy, remove the screw. Then on the outside edges remove the screw covers (if yours has them) one on the front edge, and two on the rear edge and bottom. Then the screws, 5 total. Next pop the screw cover out from the middle of the door handle pocket and remove that screw.
Remove the door handle bezel. This can be a problem I use a small screwdriver to pop out the door lock switch and then unfasten it. Then at the front edge by the master switch there is a spot that the bezel clips to the master switch, you must get that loose then there is a similar type clip just behind the door lock to get loose. If you break these the bezel will be loose, so take your time and be careful. I learned this on junk car so I'll admit I've busted a few. Once the bezel is off just pull the door panel from the bottom and it will come loose then lift up and off the door. Remove the window welt dont bend it. If it seems loose just pinch the part that goes on the door a bit to tighten it back up and fit good.
It takes me about 1/2 hour swap stuff out in a door now. Remove the speaker, and those speaker plugs always stick hard. I got so after removing the screws I just grab the speaker and give it a good yank then fix the inside of the clips. You may want to pry them off with a screwdriver. Remember you have to reinstall the vapor barrier so, I take a knife and after getting a spot started I pull and stretch the adhesive a bit then chase around the door with a knife cutting the sticky adhesive from the door as I pull. I do use a jumper battery w/ a 40 amp fuse, and a 18" long pig tail with a window motor connector on it. To change direction just swap the leads. Move the regulator to align the bolts with the holes in the door to remove the glass from the carrier. With yours at the bottom it is going to be more than a bit of trouble. Another thing you might try is to remove the four bolts for the track and the three bolts on the motor, and pushing the whole thing up. All those bolts use an 8mm socket. I would really try to raise the window using the switch and pulling or pushing up on the window to get it to align with the two holes in the door. After removing the spreadder bolts (14mm socket) removing the black plastic keeper clips from through the carrier and the glass, can be a PIA. They are three pronged and you must get them squeezed while reaching behind the glass with just your finger tips, then at the same time push them through the glass. Sometimes you get them almost flush with the back of the glass and they want to sitck there. Dammmm..... at this point I usually push on them with the side of a hard plastic screwdriver handle. IF you have gotten this all done you are in for the easy part. I would reinstall the window welt on the edge of the door and push the glass all the way up. I have found the glass will stay there most of the time while completing the rest of the work. If not wedge it in place. Then install your new regulator and motor. The carrier must be aligned with those holes to install the glass but you can hook up the motor and do that. You will see there is a clip on the outside of the carrier that the glass fits in. When properly placed the holes in the glass and carrier align. I use the 14mm socket to push the retainer clips in the carrier and glass then install the spreader bolts.
Put the door panel on and your good to go have an adult beverage, well I do. LOL
If you need additional info contact me.
wildowl
New CEG'er
Aussie Ford,
I'm have the same problem as James9290 with my manual driver's side window. I've replaced the regulator once already, but I think there must be some parts missing or they are out of place. I was thinking of taking the inside panel off of the passenger door to see how the regulator is mounted and what parts I may be missing.
Are your instructions above good for the manual regulator also?
Thanks,
wildowl
I'm have the same problem as James9290 with my manual driver's side window. I've replaced the regulator once already, but I think there must be some parts missing or they are out of place. I was thinking of taking the inside panel off of the passenger door to see how the regulator is mounted and what parts I may be missing.
Are your instructions above good for the manual regulator also?
Thanks,
wildowl
Aussie Ford
Hard-core CEG'er
Yes they are, but without the motor it is an easier job. You need to get behind the handle and remove the retaining clip that holds the handle on. I have a small screw driver that I use for this, but there is also a tool for about $3 at an auto parts store that is made for the job. Problem with these window crank handles is they break easy.
Originally my car had cranks and I really learned all about this during the change over to power.
Other than the method of operation both regulators are the same. I had one that would work just fine while it was out and didn't have the window on it. I put it in and in didn't work. If you are having any issue with it I strongly recommend replacing it, there is nothing to fix on it. Install a used one from a JY for about $12.
My 2 cents
Originally my car had cranks and I really learned all about this during the change over to power.
Other than the method of operation both regulators are the same. I had one that would work just fine while it was out and didn't have the window on it. I put it in and in didn't work. If you are having any issue with it I strongly recommend replacing it, there is nothing to fix on it. Install a used one from a JY for about $12.
My 2 cents