Mileliminator(s) installation

[Tony2005]

You can order ready made mileliminators from
http://www.nautilusperformance.com/catalog/c12_p1.html

1) Drive up Rhino ramps ($40 at Advance). Or jack up the car and put on jack stands.

2) Disconnect battery negative terminal.

3) Go under and unplug connectors and then unscrew both (if a Duratec; one if it is a Zetec) BOTTOM O2 sensors (22mm or 7/8 inch crescent wrench $7. You can buy a O2 sensor socket if you want, $12 at Advance).

4) In the comfort of kitchen table, splice (wire splice connectors $3) the mileliminators to the O2 sensor wires (clear and explicit instructions come with the mileliminators). Tape connection well with duct tape (water in connectors will give you P0136 or P0156 CEL codes).

5) Reinstall O2 sensors to vehicle.

6) Reconnect negative terminal battery

Took me about 1 hour 15 minutes. Vehicle might run rough for a day or so until PCM goes through the OBD II drive cycle again.

[CSVT#49]

You can order ready made mileliminators from www.mileliminators.com

What a rip off! Build your own for $5.





and thanks to Demon...

[Tony2005]

What a rip off! Build your own for $5.

LOL. Not everyone wants to go through the hassle of building their own. And for the record, I don't get a cut everytime someone buys something from http://www.nautilusperformance.com/catalog/c12_p1.html or www.teamfordparts.com or Autozone or Advance from my posts.

[saturnspeed_12]

instead of doing the circuit board, what about a 1 mega ohm resistor between the cut grey wire, and a 1 microfarad capacitor bridging the black wire to the grey wire. dont cut the black wire, just strip it and bridge it to the grey.

[Ray]

Sure! Get under there and solder 'em in.. UNDER THE CAR!!! This method is clean, secure, safe, and ACCESSIBLE! (do it from your desk!)

plus.. it is reversible by purchasing another sensor harness

[saturnspeed_12]

Sure! Get under there and solder 'em in.. UNDER THE CAR!!! This method is clean, secure, safe, and ACCESSIBLE! (do it from your desk!)

plus.. it is reversible by purchasing another sensor harness

the my method and the other can be done on a table. remove sensor and do the work. quick and easy, just depends on how much you want to spend and how long you want to wait for such a thing.

[Ray]

This is true. Personally, I prefer to wrap them in the harness so that if I ever DO have to replace the sensor (as it still fills the O2 bung, etc) I don't want to have to rebuild the MIL-Eliminator.

Both ways are identical with reference to signal and voltage. The same schematic, just moved up a foot or so. Both will work well, and are the choice of the operator. Good call, saturn.

[Ray]

This is true. Personally, I prefer to wrap them in the harness so that if I ever DO have to replace the sensor (as it still fills the O2 bung, etc) I don't want to have to rebuild the MIL-Eliminator.

Both ways are identical with reference to signal and voltage. The same schematic, just moved up a foot or so. Both will work well, and are the choice of the operator. Good call, saturn.

[GrimmSVT]

One little thing,insted of electrical tape use the liquid electrical tape.Helps seal out all moisture a lot better then standard tape can.

[Tony2005]

One little thing,insted of electrical tape use the liquid electrical tape.Helps seal out all moisture a lot better then standard tape can.

Correct. I just used some last week for my battery positive cable. If I decide to redo the mileliminators again, I will use the Liquid Electrical Tape (aka liquid rubber) for the connections. Right now, whenever I drive in the pouring rain for 4 or 5 hours, I get the P0136. However, I just erase the code and it doesn't come back until the next 4-5 hour drive in the pouring rain again.