Remote oil cooler

.... from coated headers thread ( http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?75580-Coated-vs-non-coated-headers )

gmorrell said:

I can't speak for Gorman, but on CSVT's, the lower bumper slot is considerably wider than the radiator, each side of the bumper slot has a plastic diverter to direct air from the sides of the slot to the center where the radiator resides. I plan to remove one or both of these diverters and install small flat plate oil coolers behind the slots. The idea here is to have the oil coolers in clean air, and not have them dropping their heat load into the radiator airstream. In the summer, I've seen oil temps go way beyond 250F on the highway pulling my Aluminum utility trailer, there's just too much heat being dumped into the (water) cooling system, and I don't like to see the water temps at 230 or 240F for sustained periods.

I've had plenty of experience with the small Modine-style oil/water heat exchangers that Ford uses, and they're plenty adequate for 200HP, but beyond that, or for long-term high-load situations, they just get heat saturated and you need something that can reject more heat from the oil..

Click to expand...

i think the only difference between the mondeo and the contour up front is the 5mph bumper.

have you got any photo's of this location plan ?

how about laying the oil cooler flat and directing air thru it and out under the car. The forward movement of the car should encourage air to be drawn down under the car from the engine bay. I've seen this done with WRC cars for the water radiator (searching for pictures) .... G.

Your picture shows a flat mounted intercooler, I'm pretty certain, but I get the idea. Many WRC and rally cars have the water radiator in the rear with intake ducting on the sides of the car forward of the rear wheel arches. Looking at the curve and pitch of the fan blades, I'd say that air is being drawn upward through that intercooler, and probably being exhausted to a rearward facing hood scoop, or at a gap at the rear edge of the hood. This would also create a low pressure zone under the front of the car, creating some downforce.

Don't underestimate what pro race teams will do to gain a little aero advantage, as bottom breathing reduces frontal intake area as well, lowering the car's Cd.

Spearco used to make a flat mounted intercooler for SVO Mustangs and Merkur XR4Ti's that mounted behind the radiator and breathed through a forward facing flat scoop under the car. Typically, air is exiting the radiator and leaving the bottom of the engine compartment in a low pressure zone, so trying to force air upwards behind the radiator might be aerodynamically questionable. If you use the downward exit flow behind the radiator for oil cooling , it's already hot, so you lose some cooling capacity, but it might be enough.

I'll get to my oil cooler project later this month or in early July, I'll post some pictures of what I'm up to.

i couldn't find the picture i saw, but yes that's an intercooler, In the photo's i saw, air came in the front of the grille, went through a duct and fans to the water rad's which lay at the bottom of the engine bay.

If i could design a front facing scoop, i could direct air to the oil cooler rad. With air being forced in and being sucked out under the car, it should provide effective cooling.

I'll have to come up with something... the supercharger is going to create lots more heat.

.... G.

pull the fog lights and run ducting to a side mount oil cooler. if you really want to keep fog lights then mount a set at the outer edges of the center lower grill.

striker2 said:

pull the fog lights and run ducting to a side mount oil cooler. if you really want to keep fog lights then mount a set at the outer edges of the center lower grill.

Click to expand...

If your going to go through that effort why not duct from the sides of the lower center grill to where your going to mount the side mounted oil cooler?

because a fairly straight duct that "seals" to both the opening in the bumper and the oil cooler is way easier to make than one that has to be routed over and through such a narrow space.

I am running one, i got a aftermarket p/s cooler and relocated it about a foot over to the passenger side and put the cooler in the middle. PM me for pictures

gorman said:

Hey Gary; that link is correct for the remote filter setup.

Make sure you get the right union otherwise you may have to get one made like i did. I used the union from the oem water/air cooler. Had it turned down and a M20 thread cut on it.

.....G.

Click to expand...

Eliminating the oil cooler and adapting a remote oil filter takeoff to the Duratec V6 block, which has an M22-1.5 female thread.

OK, so in between not having my Colorado Springs house burn down and getting a box from BAT with some spendy oil cooling pieces-parts, I've learned a few things.

1. The BAT threaded adapter that changes from M22-1.5 to M20-1.5 is no longer available, it was produced specially by MOCAL for Noble Cars and their Duratec V6 conversions. I even inquired with Think Automotive (MOCAL) in Great Britain, no luck. ( Last page of this pdf, part number TNM20X22.)

2. So, I searched long and hard for an M22 to M22 straight thread pipe nipple, again, no love, nothing in stock, would have to buy in bulk, which I'm not going to do.

3. Then, I remembered that pressure washer hose couplings are M22-1.5 straight thread, went and looked at one I have in the garage, sure enough, it would make a nice M22 to M22 pipe nipple. These can be had at Lowes and Home Depot for <$5. They're Brass, heavy wall, rated to like 2000psi, plenty adequate to move engine oil about.


Now, we get an M22 remote filter adapter from BAT, Standard Oil Take-off Plate, second page of this pdf, part number TOP118., mate it with our $5 pressure washer hose coupling and we can lose the OEM water/oil cooler and thread a remote filter adapter right to the block without machining anything. I already have this very M22 take off plate on my CSVT oil cooler.