Installed mustang TB

[starjammir]

Now I have the throttle hang and my pedal is about 2 inches low than it was with the svt TB. Also, my cars throttle is really touchy. Is this because of the mustang TB?
I did not use the svt shaft just modified the mustang one to work.
Any suggestions are welcome
Bill

[warmonger]

Yeah, I suggest doing what I suggested earlier and converting the springs and fulcrum over.

Search the old foums under duratec performance I think, there was a nice big thread with pictures and such. You can do it without welding you know.

[Y2KSVT]

I've already talked to Bill about this, but to explain what needs to be done with the throttle hang.. All he needs to do is wind the spring up one more time. It wasn't wound up, so the T/B plate would stay open, causing hang. Wind the spring up, and that snaps the plate back shut. Also takes the loose feeling out of the gas pedal.

BTW, you want to use ALL 65mm T/B parts for the swap. No hybrid of the 65mm T/B and SVT T/B. just rotate the 65mm shaft, make sure the spring is wound up, cut 2 tabs off of the T/B cam, and one ear off of the T/B housing, and you're set.

Mark

[Big Jim]

I've already talked to Bill about this, but to explain what needs to be done with the throttle hang.. All he needs to do is wind the spring up one more time. It wasn't wound up, so the T/B plate would stay open, causing hang. Wind the spring up, and that snaps the plate back shut. Also takes the loose feeling out of the gas pedal.

BTW, you want to use ALL 65mm T/B parts for the swap. No hybrid of the 65mm T/B and SVT T/B. just rotate the 65mm shaft, make sure the spring is wound up, cut 2 tabs off of the T/B cam, and one ear off of the T/B housing, and you're set.

Mark

Do you have pictures?

[warmonger]

I've already talked to Bill about this, but to explain what needs to be done with the throttle hang.. All he needs to do is wind the spring up one more time. It wasn't wound up, so the T/B plate would stay open, causing hang. Wind the spring up, and that snaps the plate back shut. Also takes the loose feeling out of the gas pedal.

BTW, you want to use ALL 65mm T/B parts for the swap. No hybrid of the 65mm T/B and SVT T/B. just rotate the 65mm shaft, make sure the spring is wound up, cut 2 tabs off of the T/B cam, and one ear off of the T/B housing, and you're set.

Mark

What do you say this last part?

I converted a 65mm with all the svt hardware including the SVT shaft. I built it for DanG. Mainly I just widened the slot that held the throttle plate from the SVT shaft to accept the 65mm plate. Takes a bit of time but it isn't hard. The reinstall and adjust with SVT springs.

It is the 70mm TBs that actually require welding or shaft extension.

[Y2KSVT]

I was just clearing up that you don't NEED to use any of the SVT parts on the 65mm T/B swap. With my first 65mm T/B, and the 65mm T/B that Jim(BeyondloadedSE) is still running, we both swapped over the SVT shaft and spring. It was when I sold my SVT T/B, that I did another 65mm T/B, using all of the 65mm parts. Using the SVT shaft, you are required to optimize the shaft to fit the plate, where you don't need to with the 65mm shaft.

There have been a lot of questions(atleast on the old forum) on what is needed for the 65mm T/B. I'm just advising what I personally found to be the easiest method.

Mark

[DemonSVT]

I was just clearing up that you don't NEED to use any of the SVT parts on the 65mm T/B swap. With my first 65mm T/B, and the 65mm T/B that Jim(BeyondloadedSE) is still running, we both swapped over the SVT shaft and spring. It was when I sold my SVT T/B, that I did another 65mm T/B, using all of the 65mm parts. Using the SVT shaft, you are required to optimize the shaft to fit the plate, where you don't need to with the 65mm shaft.

However you still need to take up the cable slack when you are using the 65mm TB with a reversed "65mm" shaft & linkage. Since the 65mm cam is not ramped like the SVT unit there is a fair amount of slop in the SVT throttle cable. It is a distinct likelihood non-SVT's do not have this problem with cable slack since they use a different cable.

To fix this problem the simple solution is to put a spacer between the cable stop and the accelerator pedal.

One significant drawback to running the 65mm shaft and using the extra bent linkage bracket as a stop is the linkage is very prone to bending. This will cause the throttle plate to over center and start closing off airflow. This is the exact reason why I switched from using the 65mm shaft/linkage to using the SVT shaft/linkage. I originally did not want to tear up my good SVT TB but this problem was just such a PITA. This is the type of problem that only gets progressively worse!

Running a 65mm TB and your power is falling flat at 6000rpm or so??? Check it out. Seriously!

[TRicker]

for all this work i hope you guys need the extra air! (put pics up so i can do it too! lol)

[Y2KSVT]

However you still need to take up the cable slack when you are using the 65mm TB with a reversed "65mm" shaft & linkage. Since the 65mm cam is not ramped like the SVT unit there is a fair amount of slop in the SVT throttle cable. It is a distinct likelihood non-SVT's do not have this problem with cable slack since they use a different cable.

To fix this problem the simple solution is to put a spacer between the cable stop and the accelerator pedal.

One significant drawback to running the 65mm shaft and using the extra bent linkage bracket as a stop is the linkage is very prone to bending. This will cause the throttle plate to over center and start closing off airflow. This is the exact reason why I switched from using the 65mm shaft/linkage to using the SVT shaft/linkage. I originally did not want to tear up my good SVT TB but this problem was just such a PITA. This is the type of problem that only gets progressively worse!

Running a 65mm TB and your power is falling flat at 6000rpm or so??? Check it out. Seriously!

I never had to make any type of spacer. How much slack are you talking here? It could be, because I was using the SVT cable-stop, where it wasn't rotating the cable down into the groove of the cam. I mentioned this in another thread I started, since my cable had almost completely broke off of the cable stop. So I had to cut ~1/2" of my cable off, as it was pretty rough, and then another ~1/4" was taken up, when I slid it through the new cable stop. So a little under an inch of slack was taken up when I put the new cable stop on.

As for power drop off after 6000 rpms, I haven't noticed it. I'll look at my dyno graphs again, but I don't remember that being the case. Also, I personally did the 65mm T/B because I was running nitrous. I plan to run another kit in the future.

Mark

[DemonSVT]

So a little under an inch of slack was taken up when I put the new cable stop on.

Ding ding ding...

That about sums up the cable slack in a nutshell. A bit under an inch of slack.