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Thread: Motor Removal, please chime in...

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Brick, NJ
    Posts
    735

    Default Motor Removal, please chime in...

    Hi all, its come to me having to pull my motor to do what should have been routine maintenance. Now my service manual has a full blown step by step how to which I've posted below but nowhere does it say to disconnect the motor from the trans... it does say to disconnect the halfshafts which I guess means that this is a pull for the entire motor/trans as a single unit? Seems pretty easy, no special tools of any kind required... only thing that has me leery is, again, the trans coming out with the motor and also the PCM. It says to remove the rivets which means I'm probably going to have to drill those out right?

    Anyway here is the step by step from my manual:

    Engine — Vehicles with Manual Transaxle (211320)

    Special Service Tool(s)

    Lifting Bracket, Engine
    303-050 (T70P-6000)

    Removal
    1. Note:
    The locations of the engine mountings and the engine support insulators are described looking from the transaxle to the engine.

    General note.

    l Steps which apply only to particular variants are indicated with a note.

    l If necessary, cut the cable ties and install new during installation.
    2. Remove the hood.
    3. Disconnect the battery cables.
    4. Remove the battery. For additional information, refer to «Section 414-01».
    µ 5. Remove the water pump pulley cover.

    l Detach the coolant hose.
    6. Remove the air cleaner (ACL). For additional information, refer to «Section 303-12B».

    l Disconnect the upper intake vacuum supply line.
    7. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to «Section 100-02».
    µ 8. Remove the lower engine cover (if equipped).
    µ 9. WARNING:
    When the engine is hot, there is risk of scalding. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury.

    Remove the radiator splash shield and drain the coolant.
    µ 10. Disconnect the radiator lower hose from the radiator.
    µ 11. Remove the drain plug and drain the transmission fluid. For additional information, refer to «Section 308-00».

    l Install the drain plug.
    12. Lower the vehicle.
    µ 13. Disconnect the accelerator and speed control cables.

    1 Unclip the cables from the bracket.

    2 Disconnect the cables.
    µ 14. Disconnect the evaporative emission (EVAP) hose.
    µ 15. Remove the cable bracket.
    µ 16. Loosen the central junction box (CJB) and position it to one side.
    µ 17. Remove the battery bracket.
    µ 18. Disconnect the starter wiring.
    µ 19. Disconnect the starter positive cable.

    l Open the cable housing and pull out the positive cable.
    20. Disconnect the fuel line(s). For additional information, refer to «Section 310-00A». For additional information, refer to «Section 310-00B».
    21. CAUTION:
    If brake fluid is spilt on the paintwork, the affected area must be immediately washed down with cold water. For additional information, refer to «Section 206-00».

    Drain the brake fluid reservoir.
    µ 22. Remove the clutch slave cylinder hydraulic line.
    µ 23. Remove the coolant expansion tank hoses.
    µ 24. Remove the coolant expansion tank.

    l Disconnect the coolant level indicator electrical connector.
    µ 25. Remove the coolant hoses.

    l From the cylinder block

    l From the heater

    l Disconnect the heater coolant hose.

    l From the thermostat housing.
    µ 26. Remove the upper coolant hose from the radiator.
    µ 27. Disconnect the coolant hose from the thermostat housing.
    µ 28. Loosen the right-hand suspension strut nut five turns.
    µ 29. Disconnect the suction accumulator electrical connector.
    µ 30. Disconnect the two fan motor electrical connectors.

    l Detach the connectors and the wiring harness.
    µ 31. Remove the fan ground cable from the body.
    µ 32. Remove the fan from the radiator.

    l Detach the fan wiring harness.
    µ 33. Drain the power steering fluid reservoir and detach it (push-fit). Position it to one side.

    l Allow the fluid to drain into a suitable container.
    µ 34. CAUTION:
    Do not damage the tube/hose (A/C).

    Remove the powertrain control module (PCM) cover plate.

    l Remove the rivets.
    µ 35. Disconnect the powertrain control module (PCM) and the ground cable.
    µ 36. Remove the fan from the radiator (continued).
    µ 37. Disconnect the heater control and EVAP vacuum hoses.
    µ 38. CAUTION:
    Do not let hydraulic oil drop onto the drive belt.

    Disconnect the power steering lines.

    1 Disconnect the power steering pressure switch (PSP).

    2 The return line

    3 The pressure line bracket and ground cable

    l Allow the fluid to drain into a suitable container.
    µ 39. Disconnect the ground cable from the transaxle and remove the electrical connector.
    µ 40. Disconnect the shifter cables.

    1 From the shifter lever.

    2 Remove the nuts.

    3 Position the shifter bracket to one side.
    µ 41. Remove the dual converter Y-pipe.
    µ 42. Remove the right-hand splash shields (shown with wheel removed).
    µ 43. CAUTION:
    Do not damage the boot or the wheel speed sensor ring.

    Disconnect the right-hand lower suspension arm (left-hand side shown).

    l Remove the lower suspension arm ball joint from the spindle carrier.
    µ 44. CAUTION:
    To prevent damage to the halfshaft joints and boots, do not bend the inner halfshaft joints by more than 18 degrees, the outer one by not more than 45 degrees.
    Note:
    Secure the halfshaft.

    Remove the right-hand halfshaft from the intermediate shaft.
    µ 45. CAUTION:
    Do not damage the boot and the wheel speed sensor ring.
    Note:
    Secure the halfshaft.

    Remove the left-hand halfshaft from the transaxle.
    µ 46. Remove the condenser core from the radiator.

    l One bolt on each side (right-hand side shown.)

    l Secure the condenser core.
    47. Disconnect the compressor electrical connector.
    µ 48. Remove the radiator.
    49. Remove the fan.
    µ 50. Disconnect the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) electrical connector.
    µ 51. Remove the coolant pipe.
    µ 52. Remove the accessory drive belt.
    µ 53. Remove the compressor heat shield.
    µ 54. Detach the compressor.

    l Secure the compressor to one side.
    µ 55. Remove the left-hand engine support insulator.
    µ 56. Remove the right-hand engine support insulator.

    1 Center bolt

    2 Three bolts

    3 Engine support insulator
    µ 57. Remove the right-hand engine support insulator bracket.
    58. Lower the vehicle.
    µ 59. Use a floor crane and the special tool.

    l Raise the engine slightly to prevent pressure from the support insulator.
    µ 60. Remove the engine front support insulator.
    µ 61. Remove the engine rear support insulator.
    62. Remove the engine.


    Is there some easier way to do this? Shortcuts or just not doing some of these steps as they are unnecessary? I have all the required tools, a hoist and the car is already up on ramps...

    I'm really debating on whether to keep or sell this car also, it has only light surface corrosion on the subframe and a few specs of rust here and there on the undercarriage but nothing that can't be fixed easily... Just seems like a total pain to pull the motor out but if there is an easier way I'd like to get some input, I know there are guys on here who can have these motors out in like an hour or two...
    -00' Contour SVT #1245 of 2150. Trubendz Borla exhaust, BAT Catted Y, Spec shifter, Injen CAI, NPG Big Brakes, Modded Sunroof.
    -98' Mustang GT. PI Engine, exhaust, Cobra front bumper/R hood, 3.73s, deep dish Bullitt rims, lowered, lots of other stuff.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Dearborn, mi
    Posts
    1,441

    Default

    motor takes between 2-10 hours to remove. i strap the two fender mounts togethor and lift from the center, slightly to the left to give me about 10 degrees extra lift as compared to trans height...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Brick, NJ
    Posts
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    Default

    So the diections i posted are for the whole assembly then? Just want to make sure before i dive into this... probably just going to be pulling, installing msds headers, drilling out the goddam vss pin and then dropping back in for now... 3l will come later
    -00' Contour SVT #1245 of 2150. Trubendz Borla exhaust, BAT Catted Y, Spec shifter, Injen CAI, NPG Big Brakes, Modded Sunroof.
    -98' Mustang GT. PI Engine, exhaust, Cobra front bumper/R hood, 3.73s, deep dish Bullitt rims, lowered, lots of other stuff.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Blacksburg, VA
    Posts
    297

    Default

    Everything reads pretty straight forward. But I used brake line lock and pinched clutch line off. Disconnected and write tied it up out of the way avoiding draining the brake fluid. Then the power steering fluid, I disconnected and plugged the ends up again avoiding draining the system. Also the pcm once you move the power steering reservoir to the side. Simply carefully remove the 10mm bolt and just disconnect the connector and carefully remove it. No need to remove the pcm.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Brick, NJ
    Posts
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    Default

    Yeah I wasn't going to drain anything myself minus the coolant and ac... the ac actually wont turn on and the system is fully serviced so ill probably throw a new compressor at it while the motor is out too. Hopefully this all goes smooth but it probably wont lol.
    -00' Contour SVT #1245 of 2150. Trubendz Borla exhaust, BAT Catted Y, Spec shifter, Injen CAI, NPG Big Brakes, Modded Sunroof.
    -98' Mustang GT. PI Engine, exhaust, Cobra front bumper/R hood, 3.73s, deep dish Bullitt rims, lowered, lots of other stuff.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Blacksburg, VA
    Posts
    297

    Default

    You will lose your tranny fluid. You don't have to open your AC. Just unbolt the compressor and wire tie it up. Looking at your write up removing your radiator fan is not necessary. And I removed my crank pulley and it gives for a few more inches.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Brick, NJ
    Posts
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    Default

    Yeah but my compressor is not coming on when I hit the AC, going to suck for this summer unless I do it right meow. The system is charged, holding pressure, its just not turning on... Unless it is some sort of switch somewhere I'm guessing bad compressor and it does have 100k on it so now might be a good time to do it and the water pump while the motor is out...

    The directions do say to drain the trans so I'll do that. So I will not need to remove the radiator fan either? How much of a pain is the crank pulley to remove? It was a •••••• in my old SHO Taurus, I wound up putting a big breaker bar on the crank bolt, rested the end of it against the driveway and then bumped the starter. That got it lol.
    -00' Contour SVT #1245 of 2150. Trubendz Borla exhaust, BAT Catted Y, Spec shifter, Injen CAI, NPG Big Brakes, Modded Sunroof.
    -98' Mustang GT. PI Engine, exhaust, Cobra front bumper/R hood, 3.73s, deep dish Bullitt rims, lowered, lots of other stuff.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    oneonta ny
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    4,857
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    its pretty simple actually. andy and i did it all with hand tools, only thing special was a slide hammer. the rest consists of these tools
    14mm
    18mm
    10mm
    13mm
    needle nose pliers or andys super cool clamp tool
    fuel line disconnect tool.
    everything comes out but the ac compressor and ps compressor.
    --current cars: 1998 contour svt # 0165, 2009 mercury mariner premiere
    --past cars: 1996 contour se, too many mods to list!!, 1999 silfro svt, 1999 tropic green svt, and tooooooooo many others to list.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2001
    Location
    Florida Hoe Hot!
    Posts
    7,985

    Default

    i think you meant 15mm not 14mm.

    you also need am 8 a 7 and a few torx
    -99 T-RED 3L SVT TURBO
    -99 T-GREEN *** MPV-ST220-MAZDA 6-TRUE DUAL-3L-SVT
    -98 TRED SVT #0076
    NEW OEM CONTOUR PARTS DEALER*
    SVTWAREHOUSE.COM COMING SOON!!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    i needed a 14mm for the endlinks and a few other things.
    and a 50torx for the ball joint through bolt.
    --current cars: 1998 contour svt # 0165, 2009 mercury mariner premiere
    --past cars: 1996 contour se, too many mods to list!!, 1999 silfro svt, 1999 tropic green svt, and tooooooooo many others to list.

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