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Another Air Conditioning problem - CSVT

R

rich in knox

Guest
Hey guys,

Newbie to this group here. I haven't been able to find my exact problem in the archives - perhaps you can help me. Here is what I know:
Last summer, I noticed that if we were stuck in traffic for more than a few moments, the AC would cut off. No compressor cycling or anything. Once we got moving, everything came back as normal. Happened a few times at the tail end of summer.
In the winter, did a tune up and washed engine lightly w/ engine degreaser. Never had air again - noticed this w/ defroster immediately.

I have put this off until now due to $$$. Did some Diagnostics today and heres what I found:
Checked pressure - about 85-88psi on the high side and low side. No compressor cycle at all. Vaccuumed it out - held about 29 hg for 30 min or so. Seems to be no leak.
Tried to recharge - took enough to get both sides up to about 80 psi, but would not kick the compressor on. A little less that one 13oz can went in.
Next - jumped the pressure switch on the drier. Nothing noticable.
The ac fans seem to come on and all of the blower setting work.
I checked the fuses under the hood and replace the one for the compressor.

Any ideas? I'm hoping this is not a compressor death.

Thanks,
Rich in Knox
2000 Contour SVT
150000 miles
 
This is for a Ford Mustang. The Contour should be similar.


Ford Mustang A/C Compressor Clutch
Q. Hello: I have a 1995 Ford Mustang, 3.8 liter V-6 and manual transmission that recently had an A/C clutch assembly that has stopped working per the mechanic, in his words, the magnetic portion that engages the A/C had actually fallen off. The compressor works and when it did kick on, the A/C blew cold.
mechanic.jpg

Question I have is if I get the A/C clutch assembly myself, is it easy enough for a do-it-yourselfer to replace that A/C clutch?
Daniel
A. I don't really know what you level of expertise is, but I will give you the procedure and you can decide if you're up to the task. You'll need a special tool, but I think you may be able to substitute something else to do the job.
78279096.gif

Compressor Clutch Holding Tool T94P-19703-AH REMOVAL:
78279097.gif
  1. Hold A/C clutch with Compressor Clutch Holding Tool T94P-19703-AH and remove the A/C clutch hub retaining bolt.
78279098.gif
  1. Pull A/C clutch and A/C clutch hub spacers from A/C compressor shaft.
78279099.gif
  1. If A/C clutch cannot be pulled from A/C compressor shaft, screw an 8 mm x 1.25 mm bolt into the shaft hole of the A/C clutch to force it from the shaft.
78279100.gif
  1. Remove A/C clutch pulley retaining snap ring.
  2. Pull the A/C clutch pulley from the A/C compressor.
INSTALLATION:
  1. Clean pulley bearing surface of A/C compressor head to remove any dirt or corrosion.
  2. Install A/C clutch pulley on A/C compressor. The bearing is a slip-fit on the A/C compressor head and, if properly aligned, should slip on easily.
  3. Install A/C clutch pulley retaining snap ring with bevel side of snap ring out.
  4. Place one medium thickness A/C clutch hub spacer inside the A/C clutch hub spline opening and slide the A/C clutch on the end of the compressor shaft.
  5. Thread a new 6 mm A/C clutch hub retaining bolt into end of A/C compressor shaft. Hold A/C clutch with Compressor Clutch Holding Tool T94P-19703-AH and tighten A/C clutch hub retaining bolt to 11-14 N.m (9-10 Lb-Ft) .
  6. Check and adjust air gap.
  7. When installing a new A/C clutch, cycle it 10 times at idle to burnish it and prevent slippage.
A/C Clutch Air Gap :
78278699.gif
  1. Measure air gap between A/C clutch and A/C clutch pulley mating surfaces at three equally spaced locations with Feeler Gauge D81L-4201-A or equivalent. Record the measurements.
  2. If each of the three measurements taken is not within 0.35-0.85 mm (0.014-0.033 inch) , remove the A/C clutch.
  3. Remove and measure the A/C clutch hub spacer. Select the appropriate thickness A/C clutch hub spacer to place the air gap within specified limits.
  4. Install A/C clutch hub spacer and A/C clutch. Recheck air gap measurement.
 
Before messing with the clutch gapping shim or the clutch itself, you might want to diagnose it for real.

It's a shame you evacuated and recharged an adequately charged and non-leaking system.

You need to check for clutch power (when the clutch is enabled) at the connector of the clutch coil. If it is getting power and the coil is not open (check it with an ohmeter - somewhere around 3-4 ohms) then the gap or clutch is bad. You can measure the gap itself with a feeler gauge. Off the top of my head, over .040 or .050 is too much.

If you're not getting power at the clutch (CHECK THE CONNECTOR ITSELF for a loose connection), then you will have to look at the relevent electrical circuits.
 
Hey guys. I got the car to the shop today. They found that there is no power getting to the compressor. They traced back a little further and said that the whole A/C System is not getting power. They checked breakers, fuses etc. They are a very good shop and I know they are not idiots or taking me. Any tips for them as to where they might want to look? Any common areas?

Rich
 
I would hope that a good shop would have both the electrical drawings and the shop diagnostic procedure that are needed for a step-by-step dignosis.
 
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