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where have all the how-to's gone?

troll96se

Veteran CEG'er
Joined
Mar 9, 2003
Messages
747
Location
oneonta ny
i'm looking for the mystique area dome light how-to and the lighted sunroof switch how to...cant find either.
my rear dome light works with only two of the three wires connected, also it won't turn on automatically like the front does, you have to manually turn it on and off.
 
I did the Mystique rear dome on my 95 SE and it works like it should check your wiring ,you only have two out of three hooked up :shrug: that may be your problem:troutslap:
 
HHHmmmmm well then I don't know ,bad switch:shrug: or wiring if the front works
 
Just had a thought ,your not waiting for the back doors to turn it on are you ?
 
no, the one i had in my old svt would turn on with the front and stay on if it was set to the 12 second setting. this one has to be manually turned on and off. idk, maybe i'll try another rear dome, i dont get it, this isnt the first or even second one of these i've hooked up.
 
Original FAQ was taken down years ago during the site revamp. Most of the old FAQs are on the forums now, but I didn't see these two in the stickies.
I grabbed these off archive.org. They will be integrated into the forum or a new FAQ site at some point.
Ordinarily I wouldn't duplicate post here but don't see them anywhere else at the moment.

Mystique rear dome light
Technically it's not recontenting since a rear dome light was never present
on the Contour (though it was on the Mystique). Regardless, it's an easy
mod for anyone looking for more light in the rear passenger area. The parts
you'll need are:

rear lamp assy - F5RY-13776-A
three splice lock connectors or wire nuts

The rear lamp comes with spade contacts. If you want a factory installation
or don't know how to solder, you can use the harness (F6RZ-14335-BD). I
chose not to because the wires are hidden and it's easy without the harness.
The switch has three positions, delay, on, and off, just like the front.

First you need to do is cut a hole in the headliner. To see where to make
the cut, you'll need to partially drop the headliner by removing the two
mushroom-lock fastners in the back. Ease it down and take a look at the
roof; you will see a rectangular 1.5x3.5 inch hole in the metal. That is
where the lamp mounts. Use an x-acto knife and carefully cut the headliner.
Be careful, as a new headliner is expensive. The cuts don't have to be
pretty; the lamp will cover it up.

The lamp will draw power from the front lamp. To expose the wires, pull on
the inner lamp assembly, NOT the outer bezel. That piece is screwed into
roof (philips) and won't come out without breaking something. The lamp assy
should pop right out. There are three wires, an orange one (12V), and two
black ones. The two black ones are in a T-shaped connector. The horizontal
one is the 12-sec delay ground, the vertical is always-on ground.

Back to the rear assy, there are three corresponding connectors. The orange
wire connects to the contact closest to the lamp. The other two are
interchangeable; connect them however you see fit. Solder three pieces of
wire to the contacts, about 3.5 feet long. Be sure to label the wires. Tie
them together and find a clothes hanger. You'll need it to run the wires
through the headliner to the front. This is probably the most PITA part.

After you get the wires to the front (congratulations!) use the splice lock
connectors to wire everything together. Test your connections, make sure
the switch works the way you want it to. Pop everything back in place, and
you're done. Took me 30 minutes to do, not very difficult at all. Total
cost, $20 for the lamp and connectors.

Things you need to watch out for: One, the fiberglass in the headliner. Bad
to get in your eyes, very irritating if it gets stuck in your skin. Safety
glasses are advisable when cutting the hole. Two, watch the electricals.
Close the doors and make sure the lights are off before crimping or
soldering. 12V won't kill you (heh), but you could blow a fuse if you short
something.

-Louis
louisw@mail.utexas.edu

Lighted moonroof switch
(pictures links are dead)
Ford is really cheap. They give you the same switch that is used in the power windows but they take out the LED! The idea is to use a power window switch and run a power lead to it.

See http://contour.org/FAQ/howto/jpg/lightedmoon/parts.jpg

Tools/parts needed:
-Power window switch ($10.93 for CEGer's from Bill Jenkins)
-Medium sized Phillips head
-Flat head jewelers screwdriver
-1 ft. long wire (same gauge as that is in the harness) or connector D79 (available from Bill Jenkins)
-Electrical tape (depending on how neat you want it)
-If you do not like splicing then get a splice connector (3M I think makes them)


See http://contour.org/FAQ/howto/jpg/lightedmoon/removedome.jpg
See http://contour.org/FAQ/howto/jpg/lightedmoon/domeopen.jpg

Using a small flathead jewelers screwdriver, pry the dome light down from the front (windshield side).

(BE CAREFUL, BILL BUSTED HIS ALREADY)

Once it pops down, wiggle it and it should come right out.

Disconnect the wires and place light in a safe place. Locate the 2 Phillips screws in the console and take them out. Put them in a safe place, too. The console slides straight back.

See http://contour.org/FAQ/howto/jpg/lightedmoon/removeswitch.jpg
See http://contour.org/FAQ/howto/jpg/lightedmoon/switchwires.jpg
See http://contour.org/FAQ/howto/jpg/lightedmoon/switchcompare.jpg
See http://contour.org/FAQ/howto/jpg/lightedmoon/wiretap.jpg

Pop switch out by using small screw driver and undo the clip built into the harness.

Comparing the switch to the new one you got from Bill or cannabalized rear door, you will notice that the switch from the door has one more metal plug in it. One row is 4 and the other is 2 on this and in the moonroof switch is 3 and 2. If you hold the old window switch so that the 4 prongs are at the top and the 2 are at the bottom the right-most prong on the top is the LED.

See http://contour.org/FAQ/howto/jpg/lightedmoon/terminal.jpg

Size up the connector and get a crimp on from radio shack or what I did was I just got some new speakers (JBL) and one side was a big connector and the other was a small (perfect fit) connector that slid right onto the light prong.

OR

You can get the factory wire connector from Bill Jenkins (parts@signaturelm.com) with the switch, it is called a D79. It just slides on and snaps into the plastic wire housing.

See http://contour.org/FAQ/howto/jpg/lightedmoon/apart1.jpg
See http://contour.org/FAQ/howto/jpg/lightedmoon/apart2.jpg
See http://contour.org/FAQ/howto/jpg/lightedmoon/apart3.jpg

After you make that sure it fits correctly, test it by touching it to the doublewire connector for the overhead light. You want the horizontal connector (solid black in my car). Process of elimination will also work. So once you think you found the right lead (only 3 to choose from) and you still have the switch plugged in, turn the ignition on and hold the switch in your hand so it is dark. If the switch lights, you are done. When you turn the ignition off the switch turns off, too.

Now that you have located the proper wire what you need to do is unhook it from the lead (black wire) you just found and then drill the harness (if not using Bill's D79 connector) in the correct hole so you can feed the wire though it. Use a 7/64 bit or at max a 1/8 inch bit. Ream that out and just feed the bare end through the harness, sliding it back into the switch. if it goes in tight check your hole that you just made and make corrections.

Run the wire up through the harness and tape it up (your choice.) Follow it to the lead that is correct and wire it. Either tap into it or pop the wire out of the harness using a small screw driver. The clip had a lip on it so I widened the lip, stuck the wire in there and crimped it. Then I slid the connector back into the plastic thing, snapped it in and I was done. TEST ONE MORE TIME!!! Unplug the switch, feed the switch end through the hole of the plastic cover, put 2 screws back, connect the dome lights and snap the light in. Light goes in back first then the front snaps up in. Plug the switch back in and before you snap it in, place test again and note what is forward and backward then put switch into moonroof console accordingly.

How-to by:
Marty Boyle

Pics by:
Bill Jenkins
 
i figured out the switch..i love it.
the rear dome light...just not working out, i have to manualy turn it on and off. i'm just going to get a new one next jy run.

thanks!
 
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