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differential problem or possibly more?

mixtape

CEG's Most Wanted
Joined
Dec 17, 2007
Messages
607
Location
NJ
Hey guys,

I picked up a 98 CSVT about a month ago as a project car. I brought it into a shop and had them replace some cracked motor and trans mounts. It also turns out the differential is destroyed in the car :blackeye:. The head mechanic said it's possible that there was internal damage done as well besides the visual differential so it may be a good idea to replace the whole trans. The shop quoted me $900 for a replacement transmission PLUS installation :blackeye:.

I suspect the previous owner (a young kid) did a little too many burnouts or beating. The miles read 80k or 90k. My question is, how likely is it that there may be more internal damage than the differential? I heard the differential was the weakest link in the trans. Does this mean that the rest of the internals might be ok if I have them just throw a new differential in? I'm not really sure what Quaife or Torsen differentials do opposed to stock, but I don't have the money to really go that route. In honesty, I just want to get her back on the road for as little cost as possible. This is my 3rd Contour and I make near minimum wage. It also wont be beaten on unlike what the previous owner obviously did. So stock should be fine.

I heard that they changed the differential in 1999 from the 1998 model to "harden" the differential. Is this true? Was the SVT model only offered this hardened differential or were all V6 manual models?

So does throwing a new (stock) differential sound like it will fix the problem? Or do I need to go with a replacement trans? I tried car-parts.com for a used trans but that site rarely ever sends me replies. I am not skilled enough to remove one from a car in a junkyard myself so I would have to locate one already removed from the car.

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I'm not sure if throwing the diff in will solve the problems...but from what you're saying...you need one. I have a stock diff laying around here somewhere that I do believe is still in good working order. Let me dig it out and double check though.
 
That's a crazy cheap price if they are pulling, rebuilding, and replacing. A proper rebuild alone will run close to $1000. Another $1000 usually to pull the put the trans back in. I hope you put in a new SVT clutch as well since everything will be apart. I'm guessing they'll just throw a junkyard trans in it for that price. Hope it lasts you another year. :help: And no all manual V6 contour trans. are the same from 98-00.
 
The head mechanic said it's possible that there was internal damage done as well besides the visual differential so it may be a good idea to replace the whole trans. The shop quoted me $900 for a replacement transmission PLUS installation :blackeye:.

My differential blew out just like it sounds yours did. There wasn't any major damage but the inside of the case was chewed up in a spot or two. Still works fine for me.

Like Todras said, $900 installed is a huge steal.

I'm not really sure what Quaife or Torsen differentials do opposed to stock, but I don't have the money to really go that route.

They have 50/50 torque biasing and are much stronger than stock. If I had to rebuild mine again I'd go pre-98 and spend my money elsewhere.

I heard that they changed the differential in 1999 from the 1998 model to "harden" the differential. Is this true? Was the SVT model only offered this hardened differential or were all V6 manual models?

The 98+ differentials are all the same, svt or not. If I'm not mistaken, the pre-98 differentials were different and less prone to grenading, however.
 
The shop quoted me $900 for a replacement transmission PLUS installation :blackeye:.

No, it's $900 for the trans... PLUS installation.
Correct Todd, this place just wants to get another tranny and install it, no cracking it open.
I told him that his trans needs to be opened and inspected before deciding that a "new" one was necessary. The shop doesn't want to do that, they just want to get a "new" one and throw it in. :nonono:

Me, I'd find a shop willing to open the trans that's in the SVT and do an inspection, replace what is needed and have it re-installed.

A new clutch, now is the time. :) This job is a lot of work, don't want to have to have it done a second time.
 
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No, it's $900 for the trans... PLUS installation.
Correct Todd, this place just wants to get another tranny and install it, no cracking it open.
I told him that it his trans needs to be opened and inspected before deciding that a "new" one was necessary. The shop doesn't want to do that, they just want to get a "new" one and throw it in. :nonono:

Me, I'd find a shop willing to open the trans that's in the SVT and do an inspection, replace what is needed and have it re-installed.

A new clutch, now is the time. :) This job is a lot of work, don't want to have to have it done a second time.

For $900 he could pick up a torsen and have a shop install it in the transmission, maybe a little more depending on local labor costs. Either that or the stronger open diffs, idk where you get them anymore. Of course there is the cost of removal and installation of the trans, but he could do that himself if he is mechanically inclined. But depending on how grenaded the Differential is, he could likely be looking at more problems, but still if it is doable, I would rather rebuild a trans than replace, especially with these cars, then you can replace the synchros and blockers with the newer units and not have to deal with that damn grind anymore. I think a freshly rebuilt trans, even to OE standards is worth much more than a replacement, even if there are next to no miles on the replacement.

Also, like Luca said, replace the clutch, I did it when I swapped engines and I dont regret it one bit. It would just be a pain if I had gone back a year or two later and did the clutch.
 
Like Todras said, $900 installed is a huge steal.

$900 only covers the transmission and delivery to shop. I guess I worded my post wrong but I meant "plus installation" as in addition :blackeye:. $900 for the install would've been alot nicer :laugh:.

They have 50/50 torque biasing
What exactly does 50/50 torque biasing mean in layman's terms? A quick internet search didn't really clear it up enough for my understanding :rolleyes:.

The 98+ differentials are all the same, svt or not. If I'm not mistaken, the pre-98 differentials were different and less prone to grenading, however.

Probably why my 96 Contour is still alive :laugh:.
 
What exactly does 50/50 torque biasing mean in layman's terms? A quick internet search didn't really clear it up enough for my understanding :rolleyes:.

Easiest way to explain it...if you dump the clutch, both wheels will spin. :laugh:
 

That link defiantly hit the spot :).

Easiest way to explain it...if you dump the clutch, both wheels will spin. :laugh:

That's awesome :laugh:. So does that mean just changing a differential can make your car "Possi" or "LSD?" :shocked: I figured it was a huge process and a lot of internal modding. I guess it's bad to assume :blackeye::rolleyes:.

I can see the pros to this :cool:, but wouldn't some cons be more wear&tear on the tires around turns? and also more strain on the engine (since it has to spin 2 tires now instead of 1)? What keeps car companies from using 50/50 torque biasing stock?
 
I can see the pros to this :cool:, but wouldn't some cons be more wear&tear on the tires around turns? and also more strain on the engine (since it has to spin 2 tires now instead of 1)? What keeps car companies from using 50/50 torque biasing stock?

It always applies power to both wheels, but normally when one starts to slip (ice, wet road, etc) it transfers the rest of the power to the one wheel. If one wheel is spinning in a snow bank or something, the other effectively absorbs that rotation and spins twice as fast. The torsen just keeps it locked to both so your not using any extra power from the engine.

The torsen is designed to slip around around corners and stuff, it's not a true locker so you can still turn without skipping. The only time I ever noticed mine locking on turns was when driving in the snow with my super slick tires.
 
Nope, it's not a lot of internal upgrading Paul.
Which SVT is this, the first one or the second? You're going to have to name them so I can keep these black SVTs of yours straight. LOL!
You can save some cash by putting a stock diff back in, nothing wrong with that, many others have done the same thing. It's cheaper than getting a Quiafe/Torsen, for sure. Plus, it may free up some cash for the new clutch/flywheel that you might as well replace while everything is apart.
 
It always applies power to both wheels, but normally when one starts to slip (ice, wet road, etc) it transfers the rest of the power to the one wheel. If one wheel is spinning in a snow bank or something, the other effectively absorbs that rotation and spins twice as fast. The torsen just keeps it locked to both so your not using any extra power from the engine.

The torsen is designed to slip around around corners and stuff, it's not a true locker so you can still turn without skipping. The only time I ever noticed mine locking on turns was when driving in the snow with my super slick tires.

That's pretty interesting. I'm surprised Ford didn't opt for this stock on the SVTs. Maybe it was a price factor :shrug:.

You're going to have to name them so I can keep these black SVTs of yours straight. LOL!

Thankfully my cars have different rims otherwise even I'd be confused :blackeye::laugh:! The 98 is the one in need of a trans. The 99 is in need of a little bit more :nonono:. Though we'll get to that some other day :rolleyes:.
 
For some reason I thought they were both 98's. Yes, thankfully they are different years! LOL!

The 99 isn't to bad. Yep, those things can be worked on later.
 
Actually, you have it backwards with the diffs. Pre98-Early 98 diffs were stronger than 98.5+ diffs.

Really? This changes everything then :blackeye:. Swapping in a new differential might no fix the problem if that's the case. I was betting that the rest of the trans was fine and that the notoriously weak diff was the culprit :shrug:.

Are the pre 98 and post 98 diffs interchangeable?
 
Really? This changes everything then :blackeye:. Swapping in a new differential might no fix the problem if that's the case. I was betting that the rest of the trans was fine and that the notoriously weak diff was the culprit :shrug:.

The rest of the trans could still be perfectly fine. Like mixtape said, only the pre-98 and early 98's were the stronger diff. If yours is a later 98 it still could have had the notoriously weak diff in it.
 
The rest of the trans could still be perfectly fine. Like mixtape said, only the pre-98 and early 98's were the stronger diff. If yours is a later 98 it still could have had the notoriously weak diff in it.

The date is 06/07 so I'd guess it has the stronger diff.
Guess the previous owner gave it a pretty rough beating :nonono:.

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The date is 06/07 so I'd guess it has the stronger diff.
Guess the previous owner gave it a pretty rough beating :nonono:.

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From what I read, not all the early 98's had strong differentials. I guess it seems to be rather random, but it is guaranteed you have a weak diff if it is a 98.5+
 
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