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Thread: All four o2 sensors going out and fuel rail pressure low?

  1. #11
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    OP, start by getting the actual codes, and check for vacuum leaks.

    Quote Originally Posted by R-code View Post
    You're really not convincing me here, I had flickering lights, I replaced the alternator, the lights stopped flickering. Is the voltage regulator part of an alternator? If not, where is it located and what needs to be done to replace it? And seriously, capitalizing isn't necessary.

    ~Mike~
    It is attached to the alternator. New or reman alternators come with that part. You can replace that part separately as well if you only want to spend $30 instead of $150. He was trying to emphasize the difference between the two. You can see it on the back of this alternator, the little box thing on the lower left side of it.



    Also, I have seen the stud that your power wire goes to on the alternator break loose (the one at the top of this image)... this can also cause flickering lights.
    I strongly abide by the motto, "Safety third."

    I thought what I'd do was, I'd pretend I was one of those deaf-mutes.

  2. #12
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    that the o2 sensors are going bad, and the fuel rail pressure is low.. I only swaped the pump, not the whole unit.

  3. #13

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    Quit with your interpretation of what the codes mean, you're totally lost.

    The EXACT number, or PO# is what people use here, anything else you offer is worthless. You're putting your tilt on things and obviously you're not good enough to cure your problem.

    That's what he means by 'actual codes'.

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by bengltn View Post
    that the o2 sensors are going bad, and the fuel rail pressure is low.. I only swaped the pump, not the whole unit.
    Your pump is most likely sucking air (from connections from the pump to the bulkhead), if a pump has a leak it will just suck air not whatever liquid you are trying to push.

    You realize what the chances of 4 o2 sensors going out at one time? Basically impossible unless you ran leaded gas or something.

  5. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by FIND View Post
    OP, start by getting the actual codes, and check for vacuum leaks.

    It is attached to the alternator. New or reman alternators come with that part. You can replace that part separately as well if you only want to spend $30 instead of $150. He was trying to emphasize the difference between the two. You can see it on the back of this alternator, the little box thing on the lower left side of it.



    Also, I have seen the stud that your power wire goes to on the alternator break loose (the one at the top of this image)... this can also cause flickering lights.
    Thank you for the very thorough answer, actually learned something from this post.

    ~Mike~
    1998 T-Red E1 SVT
    MSDS Headers, Subframe Connectors, Bilstein Dampers, BAT Springs, Braided Steel Brake Lines, Traction Control

  6. #16

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    I've seen lights flicker at highway speeds up and away from idle. The brushes were worn enough to barely be touching rotor. Changing brushes alone fixed the problem, that on a model that allowed such.

  7. #17
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    sorry guys, havent had the time to get on here for a while. but i got all the codes it throws here:
    P0190
    P0135
    P0141
    P0155
    P0161
    P0174
    P1000

  8. #18
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    P0190 Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor Circuit Malfunction


    P0135 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
    P0141 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2)
    P0155 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
    P0161 02 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 2 Sensor 2)

    P0174 System too Lean (Bank 2)

    sounds like you have a blown fuse for the O2 sensor heater circuit, I believe there is only one.

    not sure what the P0190 means. do you have a late 99 or 2k car?

    the P0174 could indicate a O2 sensor. However with a popential fuel issue I am not sure about that at the moment.
    - 12 Focus SE
    - 95 Mystique LS <-sold
    - 99 Contour SE Sport <- trading in 2/11
    - 99 Contour SeVT <- 3L/NPG Turbo
    - 2k Contour SVT - #2137

  9. #19
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    You need to go back and check the work you did on the fuel pump, and make sure you did that correctly. Lotsa people only replace the fuel pump and not the whole contraption...that's not an issue. I changed mine several months ago...and seem to recall a few small tubes that need to be connected properly for operation. Then reset PCM and see what codes come up.
    2000 T-red SVT w/Prarie Tan Interior w/113,000 miles
    2006 3L True Hybrid w/40,000 miles

    2000 Silver Frost SVT w/Midnight Blue interior w/39,000 miles
    2006 Port-matched 3L w/20,000 miles.

  10. #20
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    texas
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    BrApple, Its a 2000 svt... im guessing the fuse would be in the fuse box?

    SVT Doood, I'v taken it apart twice and tried to see if that helped, but its still no worky. So unless i failed twice on getting that thing in then it isnt the issue

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