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Possible R.I.P for #4754... :cry:

well, mine is a 98, so it doesnt moose.and by perfect i meant it runs as good as stock. It was on the dyno, but i dont take any stock in what it did since i had a pinched return line and the fuel pressure was out of whack and the fuel trims were messed, along with A/F. It did still make 180 whp on a mustang dyno (about 200 hp on a dynojet), not bad considering it has minimal mods, headers, optimized y, resonator delete (stock airbox/filter, etc). I have another dyno day coming up next month so I will have the better numbers then.

If I'm not mistaken, havent you had a boatload of issues with the way your full 3L has been running?

My only issue has been with the idle, and that was because I messed up the TPS when I was playing with the throttle body. More recently, I had a vacuum leak that was causing an intermittent erratic idle. Neither of those problems is 3.0 specific.
 
Sorry to bring back an old thread, but i really need help on getting dad to do more than he wants to, and its just basic stuff. Here's what he wants to do.

get a port-matched 3L, do the swap with no other work.

I KNOW it needs more than that. you've gotta do the trans(torsen or quaife), clutch/flywheel, motor of course, shift forks i would assume.

so, WITH BEING ON A MONEY BUDGET, whats the best route to go, i know there's a few CEg'rs who do trans work. Im probably going to contact them if i can and talk to them.

we are going port-matched and NO other f/i's. not this time, thats a project for me later. Which means i know turbos need a spec 3 if your going hard, but dad is willing to do a spec 1 with stock flywheel replace ment. i know, bad but i dont think he reads up on what im reading up on.

Once again, be realistic when helping me out please?. Thanks again for all your help and inputs!

-Mike.
 
i dont think he reads up on what im reading up on.
If he doesn't believe you, why don't you show him. There is enough proof here from actual owners that you have been reading for him to think that it's not just a bunch of guys trying to get you to throw more money at the car than is needed.

With that being said, tell him you NEED to upgrade the diff at least or you will be replacing the whole trans not long after you get the car back together. Idk how many miles are on your trans, but if it doesn't have too many miles, you may be able to get away with just changing the diff right now. I would go to Livinsvt just because he's closer to you. I understand he has reasonable prices. I had my trans built by Aircougar and he did a fantastic job and was inexpensive as well and I will be installing it soon.

If your dad is only willing to do a SPEC 1 for now, I would go with a stock replacement clutch instead. IMO the stock clutch is much better (and less expensive?) especially since you're only doing a port match 3L at this time.

I know it sucks being on a budget but if you order your parts from Team Ford or Tousley Ford, you can save a bunch of money and if you have CEG'rs help you out with the motor build, trans rebuild, etc. you can come out of this in much better shape than if you went other routes.

Good luck with your build! :cool:
 
I KNOW it needs more than that. you've gotta do the trans(torsen or quaife), clutch/flywheel, motor of course, shift forks i would assume.


nope don't need an ATB diff, but its nice. you need to know how to drive it so you don't blow the diff.

if the clutch and flywheel are fine why replace them? if you must get a new OEM SVT clutch and resurface flywheel. cheapest route.

if it shifts fine why repalce the shift forks?

honestly if your on a budget, just port the 3L and install as is and deal with the rest when you need to.
 
nope don't need an ATB diff, but its nice. you need to know how to drive it so you don't blow the diff.

if the clutch and flywheel are fine why replace them? if you must get a new OEM SVT clutch and resurface flywheel. cheapest route.

if it shifts fine why repalce the shift forks?

honestly if your on a budget, just port the 3L and install as is and deal with the rest when you need to.

I agree 100% with this. I just finished my "budget" build and I didn't get a Torsen or spec clutch or even shift forks. I've read/heard that the spec 1 is very comparable to the SVT clutch. It all depends on how your trans is running now and not doing anything stupid like dumping the clutch. I would save the money and fix the little things that come up that need to be fixed, and trust me things will come up.

Also I've found that Tousley Ford tends to be a little cheaper than Team Ford, plus they have a website now so it makes ordering easier.
http://www.trademotion.com/PARTLOCATOR/INDEX.CFM?SITEID=214771

PM me if you need a parts list for the things you'll need.
 
Or you could buy a cheap std v6 and install it.

Or you could buy a cheap std v6 and install it.

There are plenty of cheap low mileage stock engines out there, if you are really on a budget, the stock engine WLL be your cheapest and most straight forward option. (much easier on your dad's time as well) Certainly the cost of a stock engine will be more than a 3 l, but with the work involved the 3 l WILL end up costing more. With the stock motor a 16 year old won't have to remember to keep his foot out of the throttle so he doesn't damage the differential. A rebuilding of the trans will exceed the cost of the stock engine.

I know that when I was 16 I never could have kept my foot out of the throttle. In fact I burned up alot of tires on my 440 charger.

I know that this will fall on deaf ears an likely be treated as heresy so hold your responses.
 
There are plenty of cheap low mileage stock engines out there, if you are really on a budget, the stock engine WLL be your cheapest and most straight forward option. (much easier on your dad's time as well) Certainly the cost of a stock engine will be more than a 3 l, but with the work involved the 3 l WILL end up costing more. With the stock motor a 16 year old won't have to remember to keep his foot out of the throttle so he doesn't damage the differential. A rebuilding of the trans will exceed the cost of the stock engine.

I know that when I was 16 I never could have kept my foot out of the throttle. In fact I burned up alot of tires on my 440 charger.

I know that this will fall on deaf ears an likely be treated as heresy so hold your responses.

a lot of people have missed the point of my bringing back an old thread. we ARE getting a 3L. its what needs to be done afterwards thats making dad a little irritated. (trans work, and other possible things that would need to be replaced from a 10 year old 147,xxx mile car)
i know to keep my foot out of the throttle. i already knew that much when i lurk'd here before buying the car. Sure a 2.5L will be my cheapest route, but it also means im gambling with the rod knock again. I'd rather do a port-matched 3L.
 
Who's paying for all of this? If it's him, you need to STFU and just be glad he is even willing to do ANY work to your 10 year old car with 140k plus miles. Sure this car means a lot to you, but unfortunately in the real world (your Dad's eyes) these cars don't hold the value to make it worth his investment to install parts above and beyond making the vehicle driveable again. :shrug:
 
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Who's paying for all of this? If it's him, you need to STFU and just be glad he is even willing to do ANY work to your 10 year old car with 140k plus miles. Sure this car means a lot to you, but unfortunately in the real world (your Dad's eyes) these cars don't hold the value to make it worth his investment to install parts above and beyond making the vehicle driveable again. :shrug:

your pretty much right on the dot. However, when it comes to trans work and some of the little things that will make a future power-adder project a little easier, im paying up 3/4s of the cost. It's a matter of TIME and resources to get it done at. He's never done trans work or anything of that sort.

so, basically. he's paying for the motor. im pitching in for the stage 1 clutch and flywheel and a few other things.
 
nope don't need an ATB diff, but its nice. you need to know how to drive it so you don't blow the diff.

if the clutch and flywheel are fine why replace them? if you must get a new OEM SVT clutch and resurface flywheel. cheapest route.

if it shifts fine why repalce the shift forks?

honestly if your on a budget, just port the 3L and install as is and deal with the rest when you need to.

Agreed. I have a Hybrid 3L and stock trans and it has at least 50k on the combination.
 
There are plenty of cheap low mileage stock engines out there, if you are really on a budget, the stock engine WLL be your cheapest and most straight forward option. (much easier on your dad's time as well) Certainly the cost of a stock engine will be more than a 3 l, but with the work involved the 3 l WILL end up costing more. With the stock motor a 16 year old won't have to remember to keep his foot out of the throttle so he doesn't damage the differential. A rebuilding of the trans will exceed the cost of the stock engine.

I know that when I was 16 I never could have kept my foot out of the throttle. In fact I burned up alot of tires on my 440 charger.

I know that this will fall on deaf ears an likely be treated as heresy so hold your responses.

besides the fact that this is completely incorrect. what work are you talking about? porting the heads? thats the cost of a drill bit. there is no hidden costs in putting a 3L in. Every cost for gaskets fluids is a wash for a 3L, so the only possible difference is the cost of the engine, and at $300 for a 3L, I would be willing to bet thats a wash as well.
 
so, basically. he's paying for the motor. im pitching in for the stage 1 clutch and flywheel and a few other things.

If your clutch is fine and you're trying to save money leave it alone. If you need a clutch go with OEM. If you want to go with a Spec, for FI later, go with a stage 2 or 3.
 
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