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Brand new battery, car won't start, nothing lights up .... ?????

DaveInVA

CEG'er
Joined
Jun 21, 2003
Messages
35
Location
northern Virginia, USA
Hi all,

Still in a mess with a dead Honda, difficulties fixing up the SVT, etc. I posted a WTB ad for an IMRC, but that's secondary. I need to get my SVT started first, and I can't !!!

1998.5 SVT, mothballed for about 3 years. When I last tinkered with it (14 months ago?), the battery was dying and wouldn't hold a charge.

Bought a new battery last evening, just now got it installed . . . . turned the key and . . . . NOTHING. Not one click from the starter, no headlights, no dash lights . . . absolutely nothing anywhere.

What things should be checked (besides the obvious, like battery connections etc.), and what would be the most sensible order to check them ?

I thought of the fusible link, but I don't know where it is. I have no manual other than the factory booklet, but after I post this, I'll google some things online.

I opened the power distribution module (front of engine bay on driver's side), and it's missing some kind of resistor or something .... fairly large, judging from the socket holes. The only reference I have to ID it is on the simple schematic inside the module cover, which only ID's it as "R1". Maybe one of you has access to info that would indicate the real description and specs for the item.

Other than the above, I'm not sure what to try. I'm good with quite a bit of car stuff, but I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to ignition problems and electrical stuff.

Any info, suggestions etc. greatly appreciated. My Honda is dead, and I'm already beyond sick of taking the Metro trains and taxis to get to work and back home :S

Thanks in advance !

- Dave G.
 
im not sure if this is the same thing wrong with mine but i was having the same problem in a way. i put a new battery & alternator in & i would just all of a sudden lose all power. nothing with power would work. but i noticed if i touch a wrench to the +terminal it would spark & get a bit of juice. i had to change out the connectors on the battery. not the main battery terminal but there was a plate on the side with 2 wires in it that came up on the side. thats were i was losing my connection. they were kinda corroded. so i took the plate off n just put 2 ring terminals on & its fine now. but like i said im not sure if its the problem u are having but its something to check
 
The mega fuse is located just under and behind the coil pack. if you follow the + battery cable from the starter that is its next check point before going to the alternator. to check the mega fuse without removing anything you need a multimeter. Setting it to ohms and look for 2 metal ends that are coming out of either side of the fuse. It is hard to see and get to but it can be done without moving the coil pack (i have done it). testing both ends with your multimeter you should have very low resistance values (ohms). If you get a high value or nothing then it is blown. You may want to remove the coil pack for better access. It is in a little black box. Those metal ends are on either side of it. I will try and search to find the posts that helped me.

But definitely check for a corroded cable and terminals.

here you can find your owners manual.

https://www.fleet.ford.com/maintenance/owners_manuals/default.asp
 
Hi all,

and it's missing some kind of resistor or something .... fairly large, judging from the socket holes. The only reference I have to ID it is on the simple schematic inside the module cover, which only ID's it as "R1".

- Dave G.

hmmmm-1.jpg

hmmm2-1.jpg







Bored and wanna help xD
 
Is it possible the missing relay is for DRL/daytime running lamps? Eitherway, missing relay(s) shouldn't be a COMPLETE show-stopper. The megafuse being good/bad won't prevent the headlight/horn/wipers, etc from working - there should be power to the cabin.

You either have a brand new dead battery (you didn't say you checked it, so I ass-u-me), bad cables (+ or - or both. corrosion filled, etc), bad or loose or dirty cable ends, bad GROUND, bad connections at the positive plate thing (for lack of better terms, distribution plate), bad wires going from this plate to the power distribution box (I think there are 4 wires total, medium gauge, known to rot). Start by taking a wire brush/terminal cleaner to both posts and connectors after you've confirmed the battery has atleast 12V.
 
Sorry I took so long getting back, guys. Last week was a killer work-wise.

Well, I decided to pull out and check the fuses etc. in the Power Dist. Box, and also yanked the relays to clean the contacts, and then I firmly re-seated everything.

Then I took a battery brush, and cleaned and roughed-up the insides of the cable terminals and the battery posts. Voila ! The engine turned over !

. . . and over and over and over . . . but never "caught" and started. So then I tooled over to the gas station and brought home 5 gals. of gas, and also a bottle of water remover.

The engine continues to turn over beautifully, but just won't start. What should I suspect next ? A ka-blastulated fuel pump ? (The fuse for the fuel pump was fine).

At least the car is turning over -- I'd hate it if I was still chasing an ignition/electrical problem.

Thanks in advance,
Dave G.
 
check your PCM fuse too if u havent done that already .. my 98 had a bad harness after i got my 3L in and it turned and turned like an old SOB but never started.. i was toasting my PCM fuses till i got the wiring harness replaced. check that it turns but doesnt spark, get fuel or anything... just turns over and over and over... just my experience ..
 
the fuse box picture above is not correct for a early SVT. That diagram is for a returnless fuel system car which would be late 99 to 2k or later cougars also.
 
A big thank you to everyone who has replied and offered suggestions thus far.

Forgive my ignorance, but what exactly is a PCM fuse, and where is it located ? (I'm guessing PCM = Power Control Module or something).'

I sure hope it isn't a bad wiring harness -- impossible for me to replace, and I imagine mucho $$$$$ to have it done.

For the record, the car ran fine before being "mothballed," with the exception of the battery dying. The only other issue I had (and still have) is the IMRC, but even with that, the car still ran pretty well.
 
When you turn the key to run, you should have a Check Engine Light, even momentarily, like the airbag and coolant lights . If your PCM is ~NOT~ getting power, there will be no check engine light. I can't pinpoint you to the PCM fuse off of my head, but there is only a handfull of them to check in the box next to the battery. (its the lowest amperage one in there) DID YOU check the 3-4 hot wires from the + post to this power distribution box?

Your car needs fuel, air, spark, time and compression to run. I'd concentrate on fuel & spark. 14 month old gas isn't ideal, she should atleast try to cough and run rough.

Your initial post says its a 98.5, but your sig yesterday says 98 on EOs. If it is indeed a early 98, then the issue with wiring could be relevant. Not as difficult or expensive as it sounds. Intimidating sounding yes, and expensive at a shop yes, but if you search this site and archives, any and all issues have been hashed and rehashed over the years.
 
pull out one of the hoses on your intake(in between the mass air flow sensor and the throttle body), and spray some starting fluid in there while you have a friend turn the key. you probably just have bad gas. also, when you turn the key to the "run" position, can you hear the fuel pump priming?
 
Smalls,

Thanks for your comments. A friend helped me try out starting the SVT with a spray can of ether-based starting fluid. I turned the key, there was some sputtering and coughing, and then . . . it started !!! Unfortunately, the engine only ran while spraying into the intake -- when that was stopped, the engine died.

I'd like to think it's just "rotten" gasoline, but another stroke of bad news is, I so far have not heard the fuel pump "priming" sound.

The stealership of course wants an arm and a leg for a fool pump -- $280 - $390 depending on the exact date of manufacture. I did find a Bosch pump kit on eBay for around $20 (Buy it Now, with FREE shipping). But even if there's a decently priced choice, I still don't want to pay it if it's not the fuel pump.

I have an appointment tomorrow at an independent shop; he can look things over for $cheap, but says it would be $300 or so to drain the gas tank, clean things out and replace the filter. Not an attractive choice, either.

While it's at the shop, I'll have them also test the relay for the fuel pump -- perhaps it got fried.

I hope I can figure this out and fix it for low $ . . . I sure am sick and tired of taking the Metro train and taxis to get to work. I figure it costs about double that of driving the SVT to work . . .

- Dave

P.S. Looks like I've been a member for 3 years longer than you have -- but it says you're a hard-core CEG'er and I'm a New CEG'er. New ? That's weird . . .
 
cost in fuel pump is because of the change over from a return to a returnless fuel system. The returnless fuel pump has been revised because of issues with the original pump.


the title under your name is based on number of posts, not year of membership.
 
the fuse box picture above is not correct for a early SVT. That diagram is for a returnless fuel system car which would be late 99 to 2k or later cougars also.

but the R1 relay is still for the fuel pump isn't it? and if it is and the OP has already posted that R1 is missing. i'm willing to bet that's his issue. no relay no power to the fuel pump, no power to the fuel pump no running engine.
 
but the R1 relay is still for the fuel pump isn't it? and if it is and the OP has already posted that R1 is missing. i'm willing to bet that's his issue. no relay no power to the fuel pump, no power to the fuel pump no running engine.

I would comfirm with an owners manual as I don't know off the top of my head. Otherwise, yes if its missing then engine isn't going to run because the fuel pump isn't.
 
If in doubt on the relay, simply check for voltage at the inertia switch @ drivers footwell. Voltage yes, relay good, move back to the fuel pump. Voltage no, move forward to the relay box. Could also pull the inline fuel filter (under passenger rear door area) or test the scrader on the fuel rail for pressure. Maybe my hearing is shot, too much Metallica as a youngster, but I can never hear the in-the-sealed-tank-below-seat-behind-me fuel pump.


My yearly post average is getting up there, LOL
 
well if the relay is gone the OP will get no voltage. check your manual and double check what the R1 relay is for and then get it replaced.
 
R1 would be for daytime running lights (Canada) - R8 Is the fuel pump. Also if you pull the bottom of the seat you should be able to hear it quite well. I have had to do that a few times.

Fuses and relays page

If you find out it is the pump, you can order one from BAT they have return and returnless, for $80ish.
www.batinc.net
Part numbers
return: K10A
Returnless: K10B
 
Last edited:
D-Dave, thanks for your comments.

Present status:
* Cleaned the battery posts and cable terminals, engine now turns over and over just fine.
* Sprayed starter fluid into the intake -- engine ran well but shut down when the spray was stopped.
* Yes, the CE light does come on, so I guess the PCM is getting power.
* Getting an R1 relay (fuel pump) today, hoping that's the problem.
* If it's the fuel pump, I've found some on eBay (new OEM) pretty inexpensive, but I can't do the labor . . . the local indie shop wants $300 or so to drain the tank, clean stuff out and put in a new filter. Is the filter near the pump ? For that kind of price, it shouldn't be any extra to put in the pump.
* Guess I should have a look at the plugs too . . . looks like they're a PITA to get to, though.

Dave in VA
 
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