Disconnect the battery. I know some of you may prefer to leave it hooked up since we're not working with any major electrical components, however there will come a point where you won't be able to turn off your brake lights for up to an hour unless you get real fancy with the pedal sensor or pull the harnesses from all three lights. It's easier to just kill the battery in this case if you have any concern about it running out of juice.
Removing the UIM isn't necessary according to the Ford shop manual, but I found it very helpful when trying to perform certain tasks near the rear valve cover. At the very least, you must remove the intake tube, air cleaner, and throttle bracket. This is the only time the 1/4 ratchet, socket, and extension will get used.
Once the intake components are out of the way, you need to remove the AC line that runs over the brake booster. Have the system evacuated first. You will use the 7/8" collar at the end by the strut tower and the 3/4" collar at the firewall. Set the tube aside.
AC line that routes over the brake booster
This is the same photo with the line removed
Bleeding the system
Loosen the front lugs and lift the front of the car. Remove wheels.
Open brake reservoir. Using manual brake bleeder pump, pull all of the fluid out of the front lines and calipers. The bleeder screw requires a 9mm wrench, I chose to insall the wrench on the screw before attaching the bleeder hose. Less chance of the wrench slipping off of the screw and offers much greater control of the rate of flow.
The first caliper filled the bottle on my Craftsman pump 1.5 times, the second caliper only gave filled half the bottle before it was empty. Dispose of the old fluid. This will also pull most of the fluid put of the ABS module, master cylinder, and reservoir. If you skip this step, there will be a lot of fluid dripping into your engine bay eating at the paint.
The first thing that needs to be removed is the brake fluid reservoir and master cylinder. Start by unclipping the fluid level sensor in the reservoir and removing the clutch fluid return line. If you are replacing the master cylinder during this job, it is easier to remove the reservoir now while it is still in the car. Do this by using two flathead screwdrivers to pry the side clips away from their mounting posts and then to pry upwards to release the reservoir from the rubber seals in the top of the master cylinder.
To remove the master cylinder, use a 13mm box wrench to disconnect the two brake lines coming out of the body, then use your 13mm deep socket and a 3” extension to remove the two nuts holding the cylinder to the brake booster. Carefully remove the master cylinder and set it aside without tipping it, there may still be some brake fluid inside.
The next piece to go is the brake booster.
As you can see, mine is thoroughly rusted and was one of the driving factors behind digging this deep into the car to begin with. Begin by removing the white retaining collar that secures the arm of the brake pedal to the booster rod. Due to space issues, I was not able to take a photo of it in the car, here it is attached to the end of the booster rod after I removed it.
I found the best way to do this was wedge two small screwdrivers under each half of the collar and pry it open. Once the collar has been removed, go back under the hood and remove the four 13mm nuts holding the booster into its bracket. The can be seen below, along with more evidence that this brake booster was due for replacement.
Because of clearance between the backside of the booster and the firewall, a ratcheting wrench is the ideal tool. Removing the booster is a little tricky because there are four hard lines in the way (2 brake, 2 fuel) that cannot be removed without an considerable number of extra steps. Carefully hold them out of the way while pulling the booster out from under the windshield cowl.
With the booster out of the car, follow the two hard brake lines that were connected to the master cylinder down to your ABS module and remove them using a 13mm box wrench. Carefully set them aside and avoid dripping brake fluid on your paintwork. There will be a small black plastic clip that connects these two lines to one of the front brake lines, do not lose this piece as it ensures proper alignment when re-installing the master cylinder lines.
The line on top goes in the front passenger rear port of the TCS module upon re-installation, the line on bottom goes in the rear passenger side port. Because of the size difference you will not be able to accidentally install them in the driver side ports, but installing them correctly front to rear is critical for attaching them to the master cylinder.
Get back under the dash and remove the four 13mm nuts holding the brake booster bracket onto the firewall. This will require the 6” and 10” extensions and the U-Joint to reach the two upper bolts. Remove the bracket. Again, due to space constraints I was not able to get an in-car photo. This is the bolt pattern when viewed from inside the driver side footwell.
***NOTE*** Do not confuse that rubber boot for the one surrounding the clutch master cylinder shaft, they look very similar.