JnCsvt
CEG'er
No, i dont know how to do that, or where to get it done... i could take it to my mechanic but i dont really want to go back to him right now
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3L issues, Intake backfire/No spark
- Thread starter JnCsvt
- Start date
Wien_Sean
Hard-core CEG'er
You get a compression tester, take one spark plug out, thread the compression tester in its place, pull the fuses for the fuel pump (or mash the gas pedal down), have a friend hold the compression tester gauge up so you can see it, and then turn the key in the ignition like you are trying to start it. Stop when the needle stops going up. Remove the compression tester from the spark plug hole, replace the spark plug and move on to the next cylinder. Someone with better knowledge will have to confirm or dis-confirm what the readings should be, but all the cylinders should be withint 10~20 psi of each other. On my 3L all but one is at 190~210 psi, with the one bad cylinder at 120 psi.
Edit: Looks like they are about $25 to $40 at Autozone, depending on what kind you get. Alternatively, you can tell this mechanic to fix the car or give you some of your money back. I would not have accepted the car back without having money in my hand or the car working.
Edit: Looks like they are about $25 to $40 at Autozone, depending on what kind you get. Alternatively, you can tell this mechanic to fix the car or give you some of your money back. I would not have accepted the car back without having money in my hand or the car working.
you want to unplug the coil also, open the tb, should be done on a hot engine, etc
Wien_Sean
Hard-core CEG'er
Good call, I totally forgot about those bits.
if you are by yourself you can use a starting switch also. tester should come with instructions but mine read that you only crank the engine 4 times, not until the needle stops moving.
Wien_Sean
Hard-core CEG'er
Well I suppose it will never really totally stop moving, but when it isn't reading any higher than I usually stopped. I suppose 4 tries is about what it took anyway.
ctmystique
Hard-core CEG'er
I would def. redo the timing as I personally know that it sounds like a timing issue. Been there twice! Just cause your mech. says it's right doesn't mean it is. I did it on one my cars and also on SVTlokis brothers car. :troutslap:
JnCsvt
CEG'er
We'll all i was having the mechanic do was install it, but svttour built the motor, he said he is 100% sure its timed correctly
JnCsvt
CEG'er
I havnt driven it, i was in NJ for the weekend, but i sprayed everywhere and couldnt find a vacuum leak.. so im not sure maybe it is a compression issue
SicSE
Veteran CEG'er
Most directions DO say this, but doing it this way often results in an incorrect diagnosis. Conversely, the "crank-till-the-needle-stops" method gives you a max reading and is typically much more accurate... ESPECIALLY if you don't pull all the plugs to start, (which is usually one of the first steps given by most instructions). If a cylinder DOES have a compression problem, it is NOT going to reach the same max compression as a good cylinder... period. However, if you use the "crank X times" method, good cylinders COULD give similar readings as a bad ones, or, you can easily end up with readings that appear to show a compression problem, when there really isn't one. Ask me about the diesel I'm working on that was given to me because it "has a compression problem".
JnCSVT - did your mechanic just install it or what did he have it for in the first place? I hate to be the odd man out here, but this doesn't sound like a vacuum leak to me. What PCM, injectors & MAF are you running? Do you have any way to check your fuel trims?
JnCsvt
CEG'er
I had a knocking svt motor, so he did the swap.
I couldnt find a vacuum leak so i dont think so either, svt pcm injectors and MAF, its all stock.. the car is an svt. engine is part matched so i even have the intakes.
I changed the MAF to see if it would help, no go.. i also changed the IAC same thing.
But it is a possibility i have a compression issue, because i have serious blow-by.. oil puddles in the accordian tube after running the car maybe a half hour at idle.
does the oil smell like gas? if so, dont keep running the car. gas in oil makes very bad lubrication
Blackcoog
Hard-core CEG'er
Who installed the lower intake manifold to head gaskets? Did they clip the centering posts off them? If not they could have a major leak there.
I cut the centering posts off completely. I told Jonah that when his mechanic installed his LIM (because I sent him a core) to make sure that the gaskets are centered correctly. Jonah looked down there but didnt remove the LIM to be 100% certain.
Blackcoog
Hard-core CEG'er
Is this a returnless car? I've had issues with the injector clips breaking on almost all returnless cars. The plugs can pull up slightly so the injector won't fire. They look connected but aren't. If it's return it's also a good idea to make sure the clips are in place. You can double check if all the injectors are firing buy removing the upper intake, disconnecting the coil pack, stuffing paper towels down each port with an injector and cranking it. Check the towels for fuel after you crank it few times. Make sure the coil pack is unplugged or you could start a fire.
JnCsvt
CEG'er
I check both of those things, the injectors all seemed fine, and connected also... hopefully this weekend ill be able to dig in some more
Ok I read through all this and in my mind I keep coming back to a vac leak. There has been several good suggestions and seems like most are thinking the same on the vac leak.
How did you test for a leak? I read where you said you sprayed everywhere but what were you spraying? Was the engine running when you did this?
When testing for a vac leak the best method I have found is starting fluid or brake cleaner, I prefer brake cleaner. spray in very small amounts around the gasket areas and if there is a leak you get a change in engine RPM's.
The usual disclaimer applies here, brake cleaner and starting fluid are obviously highly flammable so its a good idea to have a fire extinguisher handy and have you plus at least one other person present for help if needed.
Hope any of this helps.
How did you test for a leak? I read where you said you sprayed everywhere but what were you spraying? Was the engine running when you did this?
When testing for a vac leak the best method I have found is starting fluid or brake cleaner, I prefer brake cleaner. spray in very small amounts around the gasket areas and if there is a leak you get a change in engine RPM's.
The usual disclaimer applies here, brake cleaner and starting fluid are obviously highly flammable so its a good idea to have a fire extinguisher handy and have you plus at least one other person present for help if needed.
Hope any of this helps.