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Key Fob programming

Aussie Ford

Hard-core CEG'er
Joined
Sep 3, 2006
Messages
2,033
Location
Portland, Orygun
Key fobs are an item we seem to take for granted…. Usually with good cause since in today’s world the push of a button is something we do without much thought. That is until it doesn’t work…… then that is a whole different story. To that end I present this posting. I, through the kindness of Blackzilla, have acquired a fob to go with my new extra key. The first thing to do if your fob is not working is of course to check the batteries. And while you have that open check the contacts to ensure they will, and do, make contact.
Open fob..jpgFob batteries..jpg

The other day I heard that someone actually lost the fob programming by disconnecting the cars battery, but I personally have not had that experience when I have done that.

If you have now just changed the batteries, or as in my case acquired a new (2U) fob, you need to program it. Well not just that one but all fobs you have for your car. Once you begin the process you will also clear all the programming of any other fobs so you need to re-enter them too.

I found the shorting pin connector behind the glove box as has been commonly stated. However if you have the premium sound system as in an SVT that is where the factory amp is so while I could see it by dropping the glove box I could not reach it. BTW it was already hanging down. I was able to get to it from under the dash.
shorting pin connector..jpgShorting connector 2..jpg
brappleglovecompartment2..jpg
Here's a better pic from BrApple that shows the clutter in that area.

Programming

Note:
A maximum of four keyless entry remote transmitters can be programmed for each central locking/anti-theft module.

Note:
Upon program mode 3 entrance, once a transmitter button is pressed for the first time, the receiver module erases ALL previously stored transmitter codes in the memory. All transmitters must be present at the same time to be programmed to the vehicle.

Note:
To enter programming mode, first verify that the battery is fully charged.

1. Turn the ignition switch to RUN. (it was suggested to jumper the connector first then turn on the ignition, that is not the proper way to do it since the shorting is only momentary to enter the programming mode. when the horn beeps that's the signal to remove the jumper)

2. Locate the programming connector and momentarily short the 2 pins. The shorting bar connector is located near the control module. The horn will bleep to confirm program mode entrance.(just touch the jumper to the pins on the connector, no need to fully insert it)

3. Press any button on a remote entry transmitter. The horn will bleep to acknowledge the transmitter code was received.

4. Repeat Step 3 for any additional remote entry transmitters wished to be programmed to the vehicle.

5. Turn the ignition switch OFF to exit program mode. To confirm the program mode has been exited the horn will bleep one last time.


That’s it, and let me say it went so easy I’m sure it wasn’t meant for a Contour….. LOL :D


AF
 
Bunting this old thread while I'm searching for the programming process. Im assuming all svts had keyless entry, and purchased two remote with identical numbers on the back as posted in the first post here. But upon looking under the dash as shown in brapples pic, i do not see the jumper connector down there. Is it up higher behind the glovebox and needs to be pushed down?
 
The best way to see it is to drop the glove box. Even then it still could be taped to the wiring harness. I don't know of an SVT that doesn't have remote entry. Also like someone else said they could see it but couldn't reach it.

01-22-11_1513..jpg

Regards,
AF
 
Thanks for the heads up. I forgot to report back that i eventually found it by tracing the broan and white wires. The plug was stuffed behind the kick panel. And couldn't believe programming was that simple.
 
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