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Thread: hybrid 3l yes or no?

  1. #1
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    Default hybrid 3l yes or no?

    what do u guys think for a daily driver hybrid 3l or should i go in another direction?


    if i go with the 3l and 3l heads i was thinking of porting the lim to an oval and getting rid of the secondaries?

    just looking for your opions
    Good Twin-1999 Black/MNB SeVT. Short throw, trubendz exhuast.

    fiberglass side skirt GB. add your name already!

  2. #2
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    I loved my hybrid motor, but a full 3L does have the benefit of the improved oil drain backs, and a full 3L with svt cams seems to perform as well or better than the hybid setup.

    porting the lim is an idea, but if you get rid of the secondaries you will require a complete reprogram of the computer to compensate for air flow differences, fuel demands, and the lack of control system feed-back if you remove the imrc box.
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    87 Mustang GT Turbo

  3. #3
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    cool cause for me its a heck of alot cheaper to do a hybrid then try a full swap at least the first swap i do should be the easiest possible then i can try harder things

    removing the secondaries couldnt i just get the ecu flashed? xcal2 or sumthing or get a chip made?
    Good Twin-1999 Black/MNB SeVT. Short throw, trubendz exhuast.

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  4. #4
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    Going with a full 3L isn't necessary harder than going a hybrid setup. With a hybrid setup you have to tear the engine down the most. When you buy the 3L it will most likely be the full engine. You will have to tear it all the way down to the block, fill the oil drain back holes, and then reattach the heads. With a full 3L you won't even need to remove the heads and with SVT cams they are making nearly the same amount of power for the same work.
    Need a CSVT

    Daily Driver: 2000 Ford Taurus SEL (Duratec)

  5. Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DyComet View Post
    Going with a full 3L isn't necessary harder than going a hybrid setup. With a hybrid setup you have to tear the engine down the most. When you buy the 3L it will most likely be the full engine. You will have to tear it all the way down to the block, fill the oil drain back holes, and then reattach the heads. With a full 3L you won't even need to remove the heads and with SVT cams they are making nearly the same amount of power for the same work.
    I agree, the full 3L seems to make similar power for a lot less $ (if you buy new gaskets for the hybrid) and work..

    Dan
    1966 Mustang Fastback
    2003 Mustang Cobra
    2004 F150 Lariat 4x4
    And a few other goodies in the garage!

    Visit: http://www.3lduratec.com For pricing on 3L engines, 3L SVT Contours, or pricing for 3L swaps into your current car.

  6. #6
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    My question is...

    With a full 3L and SVT cams only, do you need to buy high octane fuel?

    My guess is NO since the compression levels are still stock 3L.

  7. #7
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    More than likely, you'll have to have the computer/knock sensor tuned for 87 octane though.

    Mark
    2004 Mazda 6

  8. #8

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    i am still undecided what i am doing with mine,,definetly 3.0 but what heads i haven't decided. would have to do alot of work to get my 3.0s back up to par
    Toreador 98 CSVT #246 of 6535 (3L DONE!!!)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by DyComet View Post
    Going with a full 3L isn't necessary harder than going a hybrid setup. With a hybrid setup you have to tear the engine down the most. When you buy the 3L it will most likely be the full engine. You will have to tear it all the way down to the block, fill the oil drain back holes, and then reattach the heads. With a full 3L you won't even need to remove the heads and with SVT cams they are making nearly the same amount of power for the same work.
    Quote Originally Posted by DNeinstadt View Post
    I agree, the full 3L seems to make similar power for a lot less $ (if you buy new gaskets for the hybrid) and work..

    Dan
    I disagree. Salvage yard motors should be torn down to bare block and rebuilt any way you look at it, hybrid or straight 3L. I've pulled 100,000 mile motors that look like they just came off of the assembly line, but I've also disassembled engines that had barely 20,000 on them and looked like they were on their death bed. Plus, sitting outside in insurance yards without hoods covering vital parts can really be hard on bearings, rings, and seals... and that's even before they get to the salvage yards.
    http://www.bnmotorsports.com
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  10. #10

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    Brad,

    Unfortunately with the latest crop of those offering 3L services, you and I are becoming the exception to the rule that junkyard motors need rebuilt before being installed. Shoot, we've had members on this very board that have learned that lesson the hard way multiple times, yet people seem to think it's just a fluke.

    I agree it's all a great big pain in the butt to do, but if you're all ready spending the time and money to do the swap, wouldn't you rather spend a little more to have a better guarantee that you're not putting a timebomb in your car? It's a crap shoot at best figuring out the amount of or lack of service an engine has received over it's life span and that doesn't include the issues Brad touched on about sitting for years in a junkyard.

    Rick
    Owner of 00 #1611 Silver (Totalled) 98.5 T-Red SVT #6180
    Buckshot77@msn.com
    Misc 3L parts for sale

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