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Thread: How to do a valve train adjustment and replace shims?

  1. #11
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    Default are you just wanting to adjust the valves for something to do or is there a reason to worry?

    Don't know ANYONE who has ever adjusted the valve clearance on a 4 cyl tour as a maintenance items. I have over 150,000 on both tours and no issues at all, and I don't ever intend to adjust.

    So is there some specific reason to think about adjusting or is it something you think you ought to do?
    Andres

    Contours are transportation, good transportation but just transportation at the end of the day.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by andreslobo View Post
    Don't know ANYONE who has ever adjusted the valve clearance on a 4 cyl tour as a maintenance items. I have over 150,000 on both tours and no issues at all, and I don't ever intend to adjust.

    So is there some specific reason to think about adjusting or is it something you think you ought to do?
    If I knew anyone, I would not be posting right?

    There is a bad ticking coming from the valve cover.

    I just want to learn since the Zetec, 2.0L is notorious to make this noise, where exactly?

  3. #13
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    Default now something to work with

    1. The reason that you will find it difficult to find someone with experience is that unless you do a valve job there is usually NO reason over the life to adjust the tappets.

    My car has been tapping for over 80,000 miles, it is annoying but it doesn't seem to be an issue.

    2. More on the tapping noise would be very helpful,

    a. louder when cold?
    b. louder when warm?
    c. loud all of the time?

    Use a long screwdriver as a stethscope and see if you can locate the area of the tapping.
    Andres

    Contours are transportation, good transportation but just transportation at the end of the day.

  4. #14

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    One or 2 may tap a bit when cold, but it goes away when hot unless something is wrong. I adjusted my tappets after a valvejob. The intakes were pretty much OK but the exhausts got cut quite a bit. I did not change shims, instead custom cut the valvestem tips to get clearance.

    Just because someone else tells you he has never had trouble before does not mean you won't. A steady loud clicking could be something as simple and deady as a valvelock pulling through retainer to destroy motor. Rare, but it does happen. I have seen that many times on older big V-8 run with no maintenance but it should be much harder on 4 valve motor since no spring pressure to speak of.

  5. #15
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    This should sum up exactly how the Zetec valve, tappets, and noise associate:

    It is necessary for a clearance to exist between the tip of each valve stem and the valve operating mechanism, to allow for the expansion of the various components as the engine reaches normal operating temperature.

    On most older engine designs, this meant that the valve clearances (also known as tappet clearances) had to be checked and adjusted regularly. If the learances were allowed to be too slack, the engine would be very noisy, its power output would suffer, and its fuel consumption would increase. If the clearances were allowed to be too tight, the engines power output would be reduced, and the valves and their seats could be severely damaged.

    The Zetec engine employs hydraulic tappets which use the lubricating systems oil pressure to automatically take up the clearance between each camshaft lobe and its respective valve stem. Therefore, there is no need for regular checking and adjustment of the valve clearances, but it is essential that only good-quality oil of the recommended viscosity and specification is used in the engine, and that this oil is always changed at the recommended intervals. If this advice is not followed, the oilways and tappets may become clogged with particles of dirt, or deposits of burnt (inferior) engine oil, so that the system cannot work properly; ultimately, one or more of the tappets may fail, and expensive repairs may be required.

    On starting the engine from cold, there will be a slight delay while full oil pressure builds up in all parts of the engine, especially in the tappets; the valve components, therefore, may well rattle for about 10 seconds or so, and then quieten. This is a normal state of affairs, and is nothing to worry about, provided that all tappets quieten quickly and stay quiet.

    After the vehicle has been standing for several days, the valve components may rattle for longer than usual, as nearly all the oil will have drained away from the engines top-end components and bearing surfaces. While this is only to be expected, care must be taken not to damage the engine under these circumstances - avoid high speed running until all the tappets are refilled with oil and operating normally. With the vehicle stationary, hold the engine at no more than a fast idle speed (maximum 2000 to 2500 rpm) for 10 to 15 seconds, or until the noise ceases. Do not run the engine at more than 3000 rpm until the tappets are fully recharged with oil and the noise has ceased.

    If the valve components are thought to be noisy, or if a light rattle persists from the top end after the engine has warmed up to normal operating temperature, take the vehicle to a Ford dealer for expert advice. Depending on the mileage covered and the usage to which each vehicle has been put, some vehicles may be noisier than others; only a good mechanic experienced in these engines can tell if the noise level is typical for the vehicles mileage, or if a genuine fault exists. If any tappets operation is faulty, it must be renewed.

  6. #16
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    Default That would be helpful IF you had hydraulic lifters

    Your year, 99 tour, car has solid lifters, NOT hydraulic. Thus the info from ford is of limited use to troubleshoot your car.

    We ARE trying to help, but it requires more information (as requested in one of my earlier posts). If you provide that information, we can help you determine what to do if anything.
    Andres

    Contours are transportation, good transportation but just transportation at the end of the day.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by andreslobo View Post
    Your year, 99 tour, car has solid lifters, NOT hydraulic. Thus the info from ford is of limited use to troubleshoot your car.

    We ARE trying to help, but it requires more information (as requested in one of my earlier posts). If you provide that information, we can help you determine what to do if anything.
    He's right. The VCT engines were a much different animal. As for the silvertops, we just need to rev ours past 4k regularly to keep the valves adjusted appropriately, or so they say.
    Ian
    2012 Hyundai Accent hatchback
    1996 Zetec ATX - Retired but still running (barely)
    Aircougar Performance

  8. #18
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by andreslobo View Post
    Your year, 99 tour, car has solid lifters, NOT hydraulic. Thus the info from ford is of limited use to troubleshoot your car.

    We ARE trying to help, but it requires more information (as requested in one of my earlier posts). If you provide that information, we can help you determine what to do if anything.
    That info took me a lot of time to find. Does anyone have a link to show me a diagram, etc of the engine I have?

    This is my engine:

    2.0L 1989cc 121cid L4 FI (3) DOHC

  9. #19
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    Default When you want some help post the descriptions of the problems let us know.

    I am starting to get the impression you are more interested in diagrams and information on your engine than solving your problem.

    When you want to determine if you have a problem and what to do about it, answer the questions in my earlier post and we will help you of course. But damn, we need some minimal information to do so and you have yet to provide it.
    Andres

    Contours are transportation, good transportation but just transportation at the end of the day.

  10. #20

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    '98 and later are solid lifter, somewhere around '00 the shims disappear in favor of different thickness tappets, a cost cutting move.

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