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Thread: How-to: Clean MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor)

  1. #1

    Post How-to: Clean MAF (Mass Air Flow sensor)

    - remove the MAF from the car
    - spray some electrical contact cleaner or non-chlorinated brake cleaner (something that leaves NO residue) through the sampling tube over the wires.

    The MAF should be clean inside. If not, you have a leak that is letting air in that isn't being filtered. The wires may or may not look slightly off color. They can become oxidized over time, which can affect readings. Excess oil from a K&N or other open element filter that has been over-oiled can foul the wires, as well.

    - reinstall MAF

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Virginia, USA
    Posts
    11,070

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    And you don't have to remove the MAF housing (metal cylinder) from the top housing of the air filter. Just unclip the top air filter housing and unscrew the worm clamp from the accordian tube side and spray through the top air filter housing.
    "Always do the cheap and easy ones first."

    "Without fear or favor." 1996 V6 ATX 144K miles

    "Entiendo un poco espaņol"

  3. Default

    Hi,

    At the start i want to say - Sorry for my English

    First photo - where is MAF: http://lyssy.webpark.pl/mondeo/przep...gdzie_jest.jpg

    How to remove it - best for this is tool torx T-20
    http://lyssy.webpark.pl/mondeo/przeplywka/srubki.jpg

    From this time you must be very careful
    http://lyssy.webpark.pl/mondeo/przeplywka/wyjety.jpg

    To clean MAF use alcohol "izopropylowy" - i dont know how is it in english in spray and very delicate a paintbrush
    http://lyssy.webpark.pl/mondeo/przeplywka/narzedzia.jpg

    After
    http://lyssy.webpark.pl/mondeo/przep...czyszczony.jpg


    Bye bye

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Virginia, USA
    Posts
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    Welcome . First question and first picture. You circled it correctly. The MAF is the black rectangular housing. The sensor is on the inside of the conical aluminum housing. Unclip the aluminum housing between both black housings (the air filter box and resonator and you will see the fine sensor inside. As posted earlier, you don't need to remove it using the Torx driver if all you want to do is clean it. Pictures are always helpful. Thanks for posting.
    Last edited by Tony2005; 10-08-2006 at 02:05 PM.
    "Always do the cheap and easy ones first."

    "Without fear or favor." 1996 V6 ATX 144K miles

    "Entiendo un poco espaņol"

  5. #5

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    Not bad for the number one post from a newbie. Keep it up! Welcome to the CEG. Don't worry about the English. You put lots of posters to shame.....just ask the Spelling Nazi. hahaha
    WA 2 TUFF SVT
    2000 Tropic Green SVT Born 1/28/2000-1975 out of 2150-only 207 made. Some new pics

    Very old skooler

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by VeruS View Post
    To clean MAF use alcohol "izopropylowy" - i dont know how is it in english in spray and very delicate a paintbrush
    Isopropyl alcohol is what it is in English.

    How I figured that out, searched "izopropylowy" and found the Polish Wikipedia article, which had (CH3)2CH-OH listed, and I put that in Google to find the English Wikipedia page.
    \m/ 2009 Jetta TDI \m/ 2003 Sentra SE-R Spec V \m/

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by LauraSVT View Post
    FWIW -- if you're only getting this symptom when you put your boot deep into the throttle, you may have a mass air flow sensor (MAF) concern. This will not kick a check engine light.

    Try squeezing the accelerator gently -- you may able to get the car to accelerate slowly, progressively without hesitation. Now nail the throttle (you can do all of this, say, around 35-40 mph in 3rd gear) -- if the car bucks now, you're probably looking at a MAF failure.

    All is not lost, though. Grab a can of $10 mass air sensor cleaner at the auto parts store, pull the air filter out, and remove the entire MAF housing. Spray a good solid snort full of the cleaner at the MAF wire (don't be shy), being very careful not to let anything else touch it. Let it dry, throw it back in, button up the filter, and fire the car up (it may stumble a touch, but will start and idle smoothly). Take 'er for a rip -- see if this cures your problem.

    Occasionally, the wire gets gummed up -- thus, the computer can't tell how much air is entering through the filter, and it can't meter the right amount of fuel. Often, the failure is on the starvation side -- too little, not too much fuel, hence the buck, or blip, or spot where nothing happens under throttle. The MAF is constantly reporting back to the computer, so you should not have to bother with resetting -- the table should update just fine in open loop strategy.

    Hope this cures it -- take care.
    If you could perhaps provide a visual of the MAF wire that would be awesome too. I learn by visuals lol

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jack_Flash View Post
    If you could perhaps provide a visual of the MAF wire that would be awesome too. I learn by visuals lol
    Ok, here it is -- no sweat.

    This is actually out of a Mustang, but since its from the Motorcraft family, it looks no different, fundamentally. The harness plugs in on top, and the flange facing you in the picture bolts in between the throttle body and the air filter via those four holes visible here. When cleaning the MAF, focus on the marked section (A) -- the wire is little, but important. As mentioned before, be sure not to touch it. Once you've let the cleaner evaporate, bolt everything back together, plug the MAF harness back in, fire it up, and you're ready to go. Obvious tip -- make sure that the MAF is facing the right way when you put it back in -- the harness should plug in on the side closest to the front of the car. Direction of air flow is marked on the housing if any questions arise.
    2000 Tropic Green Contour SVT
    1994 Opal Frost Taurus SHO -- SOLD!

    "Have you ever seen a spleen that large?"
    "No -- no -- not since breakfast."

  9. #9

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    I've always unbolted the sensor from the housing and used acetone on the wires. Either way works fine.
    ~Jeff~

    1998 Contour SVT #0036 - Full 3.0 Swap - Few bolt-ons
    1995 Thunderbird LX - 13.26@100.61 - 4.6L - Ported/Cammed

  10. #10

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    hmm my maf sensor doesnt look anything like that i wander if mine is aftermarket mine has nothing going through the middle like that mine has a little tube in the inside of that big tube on one side and has two little wires in it
    2000 contour svt mtx

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