OK need to ask some comparison here........

[BurritaSVT]

I have a delimna like most have heard and I am trying to cut the cost here but not corners either.

I know one journal on the is bad so I can either turn the one journal a little and put an oversized bearing or there is guy who will build it back up to it's original size. For about 150-200

Or I can get a 3 liter crank cheap and rebalance the crank for 225.00 -275.00

or I have a SVT 2.5 liter crank from last motor balanced for pauter rods with pistons but it will tad different to do sine the 3 liter psitons are tad heavier but if he charges less to do it then maybe I can go that way.

And the brings up which crank is better if they are both balanced 2.5 liter SVT or the escape crank?

I will more likely change the oil pump to a mazda 6 for higher oil volume for a better oil flow. I am taking down the motor and sending off the rod and changing all bearing and reassemble the motor again once I figure out the crank issue and plastic guage the peices once again.

I am guessin if I can get the rod for 200.00+200.00(balanced)+ bearings+ oil pump+cradle bolts and head gasket= $700.00 setback

I hoping someone would tell me just use the old svt crank I have the original weight of the old 2.5 pistons if I could take some weight off the 3 liter pisotns to match thm then for my old 2.5 liter crank would swap out direct

[ohsigmachi]

this is off topic, but did you have and oil accumulator(aacusump or moroso)?

[BurritaSVT]

no I had just a brand new SVT pump less then 20k and stock oil cooler but the more I read about oil 5w is just too light for turbo cars and ones that produce over 500 torque too while turning 7200 rpms in the heat

[Big Jim]

It is not a good idea to use the SVT crank. It will be way off balance wise. You would need to send the recipricating components to a balance shop to even try to get it back into something that is usable.

There is nothing wrong with grinding one journal undersize and using the correct bearing with it, but it is more common to do all of the rod journals or all of the main journals or both. As long as the crank grinder knows what he is doing there is nothing wrong with this.

There is also nothing wrong with welding up the bad journal and then grinding it back to standard as ling as both the welder and the crank grinder know what they are doing. You should not be afraid of a welded crank as long as the people doing the work know what they are doing. Welding up the rod journals and offset grinding them is the most common way of making a stroker crank.

[BurritaSVT]

well the people who redo the cranks are the same people dowh south who make drag cars or 25k motors so they are very good at what they do. It may ve the cheaper way. Unless i can come up with a extra crank from someone else. I will have it running by Jan at best.

[ohsigmachi]

no I had just a brand new SVT pump less then 20k and stock oil cooler but the more I read about oil 5w is just too light for turbo cars and ones that produce over 500 torque too while turning 7200 rpms in the heat

Burrita, It's not the "5w" that makes a difference; in simple terms that first number is the oil's "cold weight". What you want is the number after the "w" to be higher (the thickness at operating temp). I think if you did a little light reading on the forums at www.bobistheoilguy.com you would see that your specs are realy similar to a turbo diesel oil. Redline, Liquid Cosworth, Motul, and even Mobil 1 make really good 5w40 oils that would be perfect for you.

On a side note, have you looked into getting your rod and crank journals casidiam coated? It might have saved you some headaches. www.casidiam.com

[warmonger]

Burrita, It's not the "5w" that makes a difference; in simple terms that first number is the oil's "cold weight". What you want is the number after the "w" to be higher (the thickness at operating temp). I think if you did a little light reading on the forums at www.bobistheoilguy.com you would see that your specs are realy similar to a turbo diesel oil. Redline, Liquid Cosworth, Motul, and even Mobil 1 make really good 5w40 oils that would be perfect for you.

On a side note, have you looked into getting your rod and crank journals casidiam coated? It might have saved you some headaches. www.casidiam.com

It's both that are important. Like I was telling Joey, my owners manual recommends going 5w30 if your ambient temps do not exceed 86*F and to run 10w30 if your temps do exceed them.
the first number is the basic oil weight. I'd feel much more comfortable with a 10w oil in my engine. The second number is important too.


Oh, and you know my recommendation: Get the new 3L crank. WAY too many variables in having different people welding and grinding and resizing bearings, etc just to save $50. Besides, a stock crank is forged, heat treated and polished. You will not have that surface hardening anymore after all that work.

[TRicker]

assuming the 3L crank is forged as well, i'd go with that, but i can surely give you the weight of a 2.5L stock piston if you would like. i have a 2.5L crank here with minimal damage to the rod bearing journals, you could have it ground down to the next size easily. i assume you would have major balance issues however, your probably better off buying a good 3L crank.

[BurritaSVT]

Nah Tricker I have a balanced crank now with same internals off my 2.5 liter but the difference is that the weight of the pistons are heavier than my old diamond 2.5 liter ones. If the crank was usable again and was cheaper to do then I would have used it after he rebalanced it again.

[DemonSVT]

There is no reason you can not have the 2.5L crank rebalanced with your current engine components.