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Shims?

acontour

CEG'er
Joined
Dec 14, 2007
Messages
245
Hello again.

I need to change 3 shims for my MTX75 since I'm replacing the input/output/diff. bearings and the races that are pressed into the housing. On one side of the trans(side where throwout bearing is) I found 3 shims afer pulling the bearning races apart.

Anyone know what size I would need? They measure under 2mm but they might be worn. The dealer has a shim kit which comes with different sizes.(1.7mm +)

What is the best way to check for proper shimming or bearing preload?

Thanks
 
You don't just find those tools anywhere. And the cost...........myself, I would be cobbling up something much cheaper. Main problem will be ascertaining just exactly what amount of preload to use. Sometimes you can look at the difference in the specs given in manual and make an educated guess. I went through similar process on CD4E automatic for these, requires special tools to check 3 different endplays. Got it done with maybe $10, dial indicator and a variable 0-6" mike. Didn't set any records for speed but worked well.
 
Can't find a manual

Can't find a manual

I looked everywhere and I did not come across a MTX75 manual or any particular tools. I guess I'll just have to measure the shims from the old housing and from the housing which I recently got.

Pain in the butt to get the races out. I tried a bunch of 2-3 jaw pullers and the only way I got them out is by stuffing them with dry ice for a while and using a slide hammer that had a small hook. The races have 2 small notches and there aren't a lot of tools that will acommodate that.

I think I'll get away with using my electronic caliper and making an educated guess.

Any other ideas?
 
Removing outer races...WARM the ally cases!..Swapping cases..better use the correct 'by the book' Ford method for shim measurement and pre load setting!,..mess this up and you will trash the trans...Get a CD or if you have one, open the section on MTX75...I know I say it all the time BUT this is not a job for a DIY'er. I'd stop now and get the tech info you need before it all goes bad!!TH
 
Yup. I was talking about endplay. There is none in the manual, it's all about bearing preload. A couple thou mistake no problem on endplay but very easily could spell quick death in a preload type setting.

Caliper by itself not gonna do it. That only used to guarantee thickness of shim, useless to measure endplay in a shaft since no original measure point to work off of. That's why the dial indicator, can be rigidly mounted and shows total endplay as a shaft is moved one way and the other. You can buy cheap feeler gauge sets (my $10 purchase mentioned) and break them up to use feelers as case spreaders. I used like several .010" between cases bolted together. The cases then theoretically .010" apart, measure the amount of play on the shafts then knowing that whatever you get is .010" too much. That allows figuring what you really need.

Example under that scenario. Pull up and down on input to get a reading of .004" by dial indicator. Since cases spread by .010" the preload will be .006". Say the differential moves sideways .015", then take off .010" for the case spread to make leftover .005" looseness, subtract shim thickness to make up for that and any preload you need, ergo remove .008" to get .003" preload.

Not sure how I would go about measuring the shafts that are buried and cannot be moved end to end by hand, but bound to be a way. I have a dead straight piece of 1 inch square bar stock that can be used on case flange to measure off of. Measure down to bearing race bore both cases and add the two numbers together plus crushed gasket thickness to get space. Use that length to adjust to.
 
I just bought Ford Contour and Mercury Mystique manuals off ebay for $30 shipped. There were 3 books and the trans was in the powertrain one.

I don't have time to look for you but just do a search for Contour repair manuals.
 
You need the factory service manual to get your head around their measuring technique. Then make yours up to suit. Stuff like Chilton or Haynes will be pretty much useless, since lacking the details you need. If in a big city can go to reference section at public library, can save you the massive amount of cash they want for those manuals. I've done it several times.
 
Great Idea!

Great Idea!

I'll check out a public library tomorrow. I have a Chilton manual but it really is useless in dealing with the transmission. After checking with 3 transmission shops , I have been advised that I am a lot safer and should just reuse my old shims. It sounds a little crazy to me since these newer bearings have some kind of a "plastic" instead of a metal(as in the older ones) to hold the parts that move in the race. I don't know if they made them like that to save money or to save weight ..

The new races measurements match the measurements of the old races. The bearings have less play in them and are stiffer , therefore I would think that I need smaller shims.

I'll update you guys soon after I'm getting my input/output shaft and differential back from a shop which is changing the bearing for me. They charged me $100 so that is not bad for 6 bearings.
 
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