I wrote this how-to based on the install of a DEI remote start w/ keyless entry module in a 1998 Contour, automatic transmission. It is important to note that my car does not have the Ford PATS key. Therefore, bypassing the PATS transponder system will not be covered in detail here. I'll give you a general overview of it, though.
PATS
Several manufactuers make thier cars harder to steal by installing what is called a passive anti-theft system. Early incarnations were a simple resistor in the key or lock cylinder that gave information to the computer about if the right key was being used. Current technology finds a transponder (radio ID chip) in the key that transmits a code to the computer that only the correct key knows. Since a remote starter doesn't use the key to start the car, something has to be done to fool this system. This would require you to use a bypass module. Since some remote starters have the built-in and some have to be added, I can't tell you how to install one. What I can tell you is that you will need a spare key programmed to your car so you can use the transponder from it in the bypass module. Since the bypass module is only active when the remote starter is activated, no one can steal you car because this is installed. Basically, you take the chip out of the key and put it in the bypass module. Some people are turned off by this idea because the key can easily cost you $80.
On with the show
This is a very basic remote start/keyless entry install. I cannot cover every possible situation in this how-to. Anyone that has a general knowledge of automobile electronics should be able to perform this install. I am a competent installer but I am not responsible for damage you cause resulting from this how-to. If you do not believe you can do this yourself then pay someone to do it for you. That is a better way then to end up with a burnt hunk of metal. If you need help with this then contact me by AIM, Razberry Eater.
TOOLS
I will list the tools you will most commonly need. If you do not have these things then go get them before you attempt this install.
1. Volt/ohm meter. For the love of God, do not use a test light. I don't care what dad/grandpa/mechanic/baby-sitter told you.
2. Set of sockets and screwdrivers.
3. Really good electrical tape. The 3M tape is great. You want tape that is soft and flexible. You do not want tape that is brittle and hard. If you can't afford good tape then did you steal the remote starter?
4. Some 16-14 gauge wire is handy for when the wire from the harness is not long enough.
5. Wire strippers, crimpers, cutters. You can usually get them all in one handy tool.
6. Zip ties (wire ties).
7. Set of channel locks or wire pliers.
8. A good work light. It is dark under the dash.
9. Sharp knife or razor for cutting insulation off of wires.
QUICK EDUCATION
You will read a bit about negative (-) and positive (+) triggers during this how-to. When you test something for a + trigger you will see 12 volts when the component or switch is operated. i.e., the parking lights are a + system. They see 12 volts when you turn the switch on. When you test for a - trigger you will see 12 volts when the component is not being operated and zero volts when it is. i.e., the door pin is a negative trigger. When the door is closed, the switch will read 12 volts. With the door open the switch will test for zero volts or ground. This is usually a wire that grounds a relay to operate a device.
Now I will show you how to splice into the larger ignition wires. You do not want to cut these wires in half. You will kick yourself for it. The method I use involves making two cuts about 1.5" across the wire, just deep enough to get through the insulation. Then make a cut along the wire going from one cut to the other. You should now be able to take that 1.5" section off of the wire and expose the conductor. It will look like this.
Now you will use the test probe from your volt/ohm meter to split the conductor in half and insert the wire you wish to splice. Then wrap the wire around the conductor and tape it up.
Run wires along the stock harness when possible. Make certain they cannot be kicked by accident.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
It is a good idea to have a spare car handy incase you need to go get parts. Also, roll the windows down to avoid locking the keys in the vehicle. Make certain the light you have has good batteries (if you are not using a 115-volt light) or that you have spares handy.
You will have to leave the battery connected during the install. You have to be able to test the wires to make certain you have the right ones. Just remember to not cross wires or leave wires exposed. Be sure you have a good idea of the location of the wires you need and the color of the wires. If you need wire colors, check www.bulldogsecurity.com I am including wire colors for the Contour below. It may be helpful to print this up and take it with you to do the install. Now do an inventory of the unit you bought and make certain it came with everything. The remoter starter and/or keyless entry are referred to as the 'unit'. The wires coming from the unit are part of the 'harness'. Unless I specify the vehicle harness you can take it as the harness from the unit. When I say 12 volts, I mean battery voltage. Not all batteries make exactly 12 volts. So long as it is in that range, 11-13 volts, it is good. I will refer to it as 12 volts because it is faster and easier then typing out 'battery voltage'.
WIRE COLORS
12 volt constant red @ fuse box
Starter gray/white @ ignition harness
Ignition 1 green @ ignition harness
Accessory yellow @ ignition harness
Parking Lights red/blue and red/yellow @ switch BOTH MUST BE USED
Lock white/green High in drivers kick panel. Type 'A' positve relay trigger.
Unlock yellow/green High in drivers kick panel. Type 'A' positive relay trigger.
Door trigger white/black and white red NOTE: For information purpose only. I did not hook this up in my car. You must diode isolate each pin. Instructions for doing this should be included with the unit you purchased.
Horn black/blue @ steering column harness NOTE: For information purpose only. I did not hook this up in my car.
Tach white/black @ PCM. Or, at the coil pack, brown/green in the 3-wire connector.
Brake orange/yellow @ brake switch
Getting Started
A. Remove the lower dash trim. In the picture you can see I removed the screw covers. There are two under the trim that can't be seen in the picture and have no covers. You'll also need to pull the floor light out by twisting it and pulling it out from the back of the trim.
B. Hook up the ground wire for the unit first. You'll need a good ground to test the other wires. I actually installed a second wire with a female spade terminal that the test probe of my meter fit into.
Remove the torx bolt as pictured:
Then install your ground wire and put the bolt back in. It'll look something like this:
Keyless Entry
First we'll hook up the wires for the keyless entry. Some of the wires are shared with the remote start part of the unit as well. If you are installing a remote start only (or a remote start with keyless) then you still need to read this portion to find what wires need to be hooked up. I'll note in each step if the wire is remote start, keyless entry, or both.
1. shared System power. The thick red wires coming from the back of the fuse box make a great power supply. Hook your unit wires up to one (some units need two) or both of the wires as required by your unit. These wires always have power so be sure to only hook the full time power supply wire of your unit to them.
2. shared Parking lights. The Contour has two power wires coming from the back of the switch to the parking lights. Each wire powers the lights on one side of the car. Since the total draw of the lights was not more then the rated capacity of my unit, I hooked the unit output to both of the wires. If your units' capacity is not high enough to support both wires, then you'll need to wire in a relay to handle the extra draw.
*** Lock and unlock wires. The Contour uses a type 'A' lock system. The door lock solenoids are powered by a relay that is triggered by the switch or a keyless entry module. The module or the switch sends a positive voltage to the relay that turns the relay on and allows power to pass to the solenoid. Most keyless entry units are capable of operating a type 'A' system without adding relays. Since the unit doesn't actually power the lock/unlock solenoid, it won't need an added relay. Check the directions that came with your unit to determine if it will support a type 'A' system. For instance, mine only requried me to flip a pin so that it would operate as a type 'A' instead of a type 'B' unit. Some of the cheap units only have a negative (type 'B') output and will need relays to convert that to a type 'A' output. The directions should show you how to do that if needed.
PATS
Several manufactuers make thier cars harder to steal by installing what is called a passive anti-theft system. Early incarnations were a simple resistor in the key or lock cylinder that gave information to the computer about if the right key was being used. Current technology finds a transponder (radio ID chip) in the key that transmits a code to the computer that only the correct key knows. Since a remote starter doesn't use the key to start the car, something has to be done to fool this system. This would require you to use a bypass module. Since some remote starters have the built-in and some have to be added, I can't tell you how to install one. What I can tell you is that you will need a spare key programmed to your car so you can use the transponder from it in the bypass module. Since the bypass module is only active when the remote starter is activated, no one can steal you car because this is installed. Basically, you take the chip out of the key and put it in the bypass module. Some people are turned off by this idea because the key can easily cost you $80.
On with the show
This is a very basic remote start/keyless entry install. I cannot cover every possible situation in this how-to. Anyone that has a general knowledge of automobile electronics should be able to perform this install. I am a competent installer but I am not responsible for damage you cause resulting from this how-to. If you do not believe you can do this yourself then pay someone to do it for you. That is a better way then to end up with a burnt hunk of metal. If you need help with this then contact me by AIM, Razberry Eater.
TOOLS
I will list the tools you will most commonly need. If you do not have these things then go get them before you attempt this install.
1. Volt/ohm meter. For the love of God, do not use a test light. I don't care what dad/grandpa/mechanic/baby-sitter told you.
2. Set of sockets and screwdrivers.
3. Really good electrical tape. The 3M tape is great. You want tape that is soft and flexible. You do not want tape that is brittle and hard. If you can't afford good tape then did you steal the remote starter?
4. Some 16-14 gauge wire is handy for when the wire from the harness is not long enough.
5. Wire strippers, crimpers, cutters. You can usually get them all in one handy tool.
6. Zip ties (wire ties).
7. Set of channel locks or wire pliers.
8. A good work light. It is dark under the dash.
9. Sharp knife or razor for cutting insulation off of wires.
QUICK EDUCATION
You will read a bit about negative (-) and positive (+) triggers during this how-to. When you test something for a + trigger you will see 12 volts when the component or switch is operated. i.e., the parking lights are a + system. They see 12 volts when you turn the switch on. When you test for a - trigger you will see 12 volts when the component is not being operated and zero volts when it is. i.e., the door pin is a negative trigger. When the door is closed, the switch will read 12 volts. With the door open the switch will test for zero volts or ground. This is usually a wire that grounds a relay to operate a device.
Now I will show you how to splice into the larger ignition wires. You do not want to cut these wires in half. You will kick yourself for it. The method I use involves making two cuts about 1.5" across the wire, just deep enough to get through the insulation. Then make a cut along the wire going from one cut to the other. You should now be able to take that 1.5" section off of the wire and expose the conductor. It will look like this.
Now you will use the test probe from your volt/ohm meter to split the conductor in half and insert the wire you wish to splice. Then wrap the wire around the conductor and tape it up.
Run wires along the stock harness when possible. Make certain they cannot be kicked by accident.
BEFORE YOU GET STARTED
It is a good idea to have a spare car handy incase you need to go get parts. Also, roll the windows down to avoid locking the keys in the vehicle. Make certain the light you have has good batteries (if you are not using a 115-volt light) or that you have spares handy.
You will have to leave the battery connected during the install. You have to be able to test the wires to make certain you have the right ones. Just remember to not cross wires or leave wires exposed. Be sure you have a good idea of the location of the wires you need and the color of the wires. If you need wire colors, check www.bulldogsecurity.com I am including wire colors for the Contour below. It may be helpful to print this up and take it with you to do the install. Now do an inventory of the unit you bought and make certain it came with everything. The remoter starter and/or keyless entry are referred to as the 'unit'. The wires coming from the unit are part of the 'harness'. Unless I specify the vehicle harness you can take it as the harness from the unit. When I say 12 volts, I mean battery voltage. Not all batteries make exactly 12 volts. So long as it is in that range, 11-13 volts, it is good. I will refer to it as 12 volts because it is faster and easier then typing out 'battery voltage'.
WIRE COLORS
12 volt constant red @ fuse box
Starter gray/white @ ignition harness
Ignition 1 green @ ignition harness
Accessory yellow @ ignition harness
Parking Lights red/blue and red/yellow @ switch BOTH MUST BE USED
Lock white/green High in drivers kick panel. Type 'A' positve relay trigger.
Unlock yellow/green High in drivers kick panel. Type 'A' positive relay trigger.
Door trigger white/black and white red NOTE: For information purpose only. I did not hook this up in my car. You must diode isolate each pin. Instructions for doing this should be included with the unit you purchased.
Horn black/blue @ steering column harness NOTE: For information purpose only. I did not hook this up in my car.
Tach white/black @ PCM. Or, at the coil pack, brown/green in the 3-wire connector.
Brake orange/yellow @ brake switch
Getting Started
A. Remove the lower dash trim. In the picture you can see I removed the screw covers. There are two under the trim that can't be seen in the picture and have no covers. You'll also need to pull the floor light out by twisting it and pulling it out from the back of the trim.
B. Hook up the ground wire for the unit first. You'll need a good ground to test the other wires. I actually installed a second wire with a female spade terminal that the test probe of my meter fit into.
Remove the torx bolt as pictured:
Then install your ground wire and put the bolt back in. It'll look something like this:
Keyless Entry
First we'll hook up the wires for the keyless entry. Some of the wires are shared with the remote start part of the unit as well. If you are installing a remote start only (or a remote start with keyless) then you still need to read this portion to find what wires need to be hooked up. I'll note in each step if the wire is remote start, keyless entry, or both.
1. shared System power. The thick red wires coming from the back of the fuse box make a great power supply. Hook your unit wires up to one (some units need two) or both of the wires as required by your unit. These wires always have power so be sure to only hook the full time power supply wire of your unit to them.
2. shared Parking lights. The Contour has two power wires coming from the back of the switch to the parking lights. Each wire powers the lights on one side of the car. Since the total draw of the lights was not more then the rated capacity of my unit, I hooked the unit output to both of the wires. If your units' capacity is not high enough to support both wires, then you'll need to wire in a relay to handle the extra draw.
*** Lock and unlock wires. The Contour uses a type 'A' lock system. The door lock solenoids are powered by a relay that is triggered by the switch or a keyless entry module. The module or the switch sends a positive voltage to the relay that turns the relay on and allows power to pass to the solenoid. Most keyless entry units are capable of operating a type 'A' system without adding relays. Since the unit doesn't actually power the lock/unlock solenoid, it won't need an added relay. Check the directions that came with your unit to determine if it will support a type 'A' system. For instance, mine only requried me to flip a pin so that it would operate as a type 'A' instead of a type 'B' unit. Some of the cheap units only have a negative (type 'B') output and will need relays to convert that to a type 'A' output. The directions should show you how to do that if needed.
