Wheel Bearing Replacement - part two

[Bugzuki]

Please add this post after the first part.

• Remove the knuckle by tapping it off with a hammer (does not have to be real hard)

• Catch the knuckle before it falls - notice all the beautiful rust

Now it is time to press the hub and bearings out - I have a press if you do not you will want to take the knuckles somewhere to have this work done.

• Press the hub out - I used a 1-1/8" socket to extend the press

• Next take the retainer clip out of the outside of the bearing (forgot the picture)
• Press the bearing out

• Once the bearing is out you can easily remove the inner clip - You will need to remove this to put the new bearing in.
• Reinstall the outer clip to stop the bearing at the right spot
• Press the new bearing in - I did this from the inside of the knuckle using the old bearing to press on the outside of the new bearing - instead of pressing on the inner race an possibly messing up the bearing

• Put in the inner retaining clip
• Press the hub in (new or used if still ok) - you can see the inner retaining clip in this picture

This time when I removed the hub the inner bearing race came with it. If this happens you will have to figure out how to get it off. Here is how I did it.

• Oh no stuck bearing race

• Break out the die grinder with cutoff wheel
• Grind the race - trying not to cut into the hub - I got mine a little

• Use a large chisel to crack the race - do this by putting it in the cut and smacking it with the hammer
• Then you should be able to pop the race loose

• Now it should come right off

Better stop now since I hit my second limit of 10 pictures.

Let me know if I left anything out.
Install in reverse order as removed. I am not just saying that. Everything goes together perfect that way.

[Nick A.]

Wow, great write up, thanks! It's sounding like I need to replace my passenger side front or rear wheel bearing? Or maybe its the highways in Oregon . I saw you commenting on the rust and believe me that's NOTHING try this same thing on a car from anywhere in the Midwest (especially MI or IL) and holy crap it's a rustfest, even with only 40,000 mi. The SVT I just bought was in WA it's whole life and it is totally rust free with 123K on it . I swear, if I still ived in MI and bought the same care there it would be covered!

[jd2-98s]

I think the only part you're leaving out is when you go to press the hub back in, you have to brace or support the inner race on the back side with something. If you don't as you press in the hub it will most likely push the inner race out the back side of the knuckle.

[aircougar]

Great write up here...

Just one extra tip... When pressing the hub into the new bearing, make sure you support the race on the inner side of the knuckle, as that half of the bearing can pop out while the hub goes in, rendering your new pressed in bearing useless!
learned that one the hard way!

[Bugzuki]

I think the only part you're leaving out is when you go to press the hub back in, you have to brace or support the inner race on the back side with something. If you don't as you press in the hub it will most likely push the inner race out the back side of the knuckle.

Great write up here...

Just one extra tip... When pressing the hub into the new bearing, make sure you support the race on the inner side of the knuckle, as that half of the bearing can pop out while the hub goes in, rendering your new pressed in bearing useless!
learned that one the hard way!

I guess I bypassed that issue by pressing the knuckle with the bearing in it down onto the hub. I pressed on the inner race. I had forgotten to take a picture of that thou, sorry.

Wonder way they did not put the part one and two together into one thread? Oh well.