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#49's new powerplant has arrived, let the build begin

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I KNOW!!!! I have that exact same powerbuilt creeper with adjustable headrest!!!! Only I replaced the casters with some super sweet ones...:cool:

The car's coming along nicely too.:pop:
 
Looks like you can almost walk around in that garage now. :laugh:

Yea I cleaned up shop about 3-4 weeks ago. Needed to so that I could get some powder coating finished.

Also I forgot that my tube bender is still bolted to the floor as I need to finish making the cross tube for my traction bar setup. Once I've got that finalized look to the GB section for your chance to get in on the action. I'm pretty stoked with the design and I feel it will solve a lot of the traction issues we've seen over the years with turbo'd tours.
 
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Been a while time for some updates. Sorry no real pics other than the turbo.

-fuel pressure regulator access hole was drilled into the cowl area. This allows me to insert an allen wrench into the FPR to adjust it. Also relocated the gauge on the FPR so it was readable. Still need to finalize a little bracket for it to mount it on one of the insulation studs on the fire wall.
-cooling fans are reinstalled
-radiator hoses are hooked back up
-shunt tank is ready to be bolted down
-turbo is installed, but I'm having issues with clearances (see FI forum)
-finished making all the fuel lines so everything is hooked up from the tank to the fuel rail
-buying steel this week for my traction bar

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hey csvt 49, i know you already have the sct software to tune your car, but i would HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend the quarterhorse chip by moats.

why you may ask? because it has live tuning. being able to change a parameter while the car is running and see how it actually changes driveability. i would say this is a MUST for turboed cars.
it helps tune low end cells and increases throttle response because of it, but be aware you do have to use a dyno with Eddy Current Brake, (so any mustang dyno should work).
 
hey csvt 49, i know you already have the sct software to tune your car, but i would HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend the quarterhorse chip by moats.

why you may ask? because it has live tuning. being able to change a parameter while the car is running and see how it actually changes driveability. i would say this is a MUST for turboed cars.
it helps tune low end cells and increases throttle response because of it, but be aware you do have to use a dyno with Eddy Current Brake, (so any mustang dyno should work).

This is awesome. But it doesn't quite work like that for the contour. :(

I have the QH and Binary Editor, along with a Drewtech Mongoose cable. The strategy/definition files do not yet have to ability to datalog via the J3 port. In order to do the live tuning, you need the QH chip, and a "mongoose" (J2534) cable to datalog via OBDII port, and the appropriate licenses for Binary Editor. This get expesive. Also, the OBDII port isn't as fast as the J3 port, so some datalogging is limited. Also, using Binary Editor for datalogs, you need additional interface equipment to log Analog Wideband, EGT, etc.

IIRC, You can also a Tweecer RT in place of the QH chip, with the same functionality. Not positive about this...

The Xcal is awesome at datalogging, it uses the OBDII port in a special way to get much faster logging, and you can plug your analog sensors directly into it. Problem is, it's not "Live Tuning" like with Binary Editor+QH/Tweecer+Mongoose.

I use the QH chip+Mongoose for working out tunes, and then flash the ECU with the Mongoose, freeing up the QH for [temporary] use in other cars.


Sorry to muddy up the thread, but I wanted anyone reading this to be well informed.:cool:
 
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Well got the ST220 intake mounted. Fabricated a new bracket using the ST220 TB bracket and the SVT TB bracket tonight too. Although I got no pics to share as of yet. I'll be sure to snap some tomorrow.

All this to mock up the cold piping for the turbo before I use a hole saw to take out that chunk in the frame rail. Not really to stoked about that either. I almost want to weld a tube into the opening I cut.
 
You could weld a tube in the hole, leaving some lenght of tube on either side of the frame rail and use silicone couplers to join the pipes on either side.
 
I suppose I could, but then a portion of the intake will be permanently be attached to the frame. The tube I'm referring to also necks down in size. I believe it goes from 1.5" to 2.5? Can't remember off the top of my head. So if I did weld a tube there I would have to pick up a reducing 90° elbow. In addition to that I'm not too stoked about have a steel tube that can rust in my intake track
 
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