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#49's new powerplant has arrived, let the build begin

Are you using an OEM returnless rail (in return)? If so they have a giant divider inside of the rail that takes over half of the volume of the rail. The rail looks massive but only supplies ass much volume as a 1/4" tube would do.

1500 posts. 0 WHP. Perhaps its time to stop posting and spend more time in the garage. Just being realistic.
 
Are you using an OEM returnless rail (in return)? If so they have a giant divider inside of the rail that takes over half of the volume of the rail. The rail looks massive but only supplies ass much volume as a 1/4" tube would do.

1500 posts. 0 WHP. Perhaps its time to stop posting and spend more time in the garage. Just being realistic.
to answer your your question scroll up a little bit and READ!
also mike isnt f'ing around. Hes taken a car from a shell to what it is now in no time when you remember he works full time and is doing more truelly custom stuff on this car than any of us dream about.
lookin good mike.
 
Are you using an OEM returnless rail (in return)? If so they have a giant divider inside of the rail that takes over half of the volume of the rail. The rail looks massive but only supplies ass much volume as a 1/4" tube would do.

1500 posts. 0 WHP. Perhaps its time to stop posting and spend more time in the garage. Just being realistic.

The Aeromotive FPR has a return port built into it. I don't think it was mentioned in this thread but it was mentioned in the brazing fuel rail thread.
 
Are you using an OEM returnless rail (in return)? If so they have a giant divider inside of the rail that takes over half of the volume of the rail. The rail looks massive but only supplies ass much volume as a 1/4" tube would do.

Read the very first post in the thread (quoted below). Fuel rail is already modified, there is separate post discussing brazing where I've already removed the divider.


Fuel System
05 Escape Fuel Rail
Injector Dynamics 1000cc injectors ID1000.60.14
Aeromotive 13101 A1000 Fuel Pressure Regulator
Aeromotive 11142 340 Stealth Pump (x2)

...1500 posts. 0 WHP. Perhaps its time to stop posting and spend more time in the garage. Just being realistic.

Parts are expensive. I'd wager that just my engine cost three times what you paid for your car. I don't have a money tree so it takes time to pull everything I want together for this car. Also I have a wife, a 9-5 M-F job, a house, three other cars, and friends that take priority over this car. If you want it finished sooner I'm accepting donations.
 
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No one had to respond to that, it was my opinion. I stated it. I not unfamiliar with projects like these, and I know you will complete it, I simply think money could be spent in different ways to get this car running and driving than try and work your way up to your '550whp'.
 
No one had to respond to that, it was my opinion. I stated it. I not unfamiliar with projects like these, and I know you will complete it, I simply think money could be spent in different ways to get this car running and driving than try and work your way up to your '550whp'.
i think when this car does hit the road ... it won't be able to put down 500whp. It will probably have to be turned down and increased slowly until a compromise between power and handling is found. I remember a guy named Goumba (i think) made a 4 wheel drive setup. That may be the only way a contour productively puts down 500whp.

Whatever happens; Mike will have contributed a massive amount to the forum and the knowledge pool..... G.
 
you know I think he probably be able to do 500 WHP usable. Think the magic will be in the boost controller. I dont think he could do 500 in 1st or 2nd or even 3rd. But think he could be pushing the hp in the top end.

Obviously he will need decent rubber under the car. Considering the money he is putting into the car I cant help but think he won't put anything but the best on.
 
Obviously he will need decent rubber under the car. Considering the money he is putting into the car I cant help but think he won't put anything but the best on.

Will most likely be running Nitto NT01's this is the best bang for the buck that I can find for competition tires

nithz8.ang.jpg
nithz8.trd.jpg
 
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235/40s would be another good option, depending on wheel width and offset on your car.

I was going to run the FSVT 17" gold euro's I have with these tires and keep my SSW wheels for regular driving. So not sure if that will fly. What wheels are you running on your car? As your running 235/40's now right?
 
badazzcougar is spinning his tires in 3rd from a roll with his SC3L, so i would go with something bigger than 225 even if they are sticky tires
 
I was going to run the FSVT 17" gold euro's I have with these tires and keep my SSW wheels for regular driving. So not sure if that will fly. What wheels are you running on your car? As your running 235/40's now right?

I'm running 235/40s on the track car on 17x7s. The tire should have a little more wheel than that but it's what I had. I know Warmonger and a few others ran 235/40 on FSVT's(17x7.5) and they looked great. If I get the 8.25 wheel I'm hoping to get I might go up to 245/40.
 
If you plan on tracking the car on the first set of tires I would go with a cheaper not soo sticky tire, and work your way up. I went with the federal 595 tires in a 245/40/17 on my coug with an 8" wide wheel. Since this car is going to be a completely new beast I would focus on finding a good 8" wide wheel, and make any fender mods to fit the widest tire you can. Tires are going to wear out fast on this car especially in the first couple miles I bet, so why spend the money on nice tires when your dialing everything in and learning the car.

With that said I would just put whatever wheels and tires you have on the car and get everything else done. Then since you didnt overlook anything under the hood I would come back later and not overlook anything in the suspension including wheels tires brakes etc. But sounds to me like you can bolt all the suspension back on from before and worry about upgrading all of that after the car is road worthy.

Are you still planning on doing traction bars? I ask because you wouldn't need to go through all the trouble of designing them and adding weight to the car if you just had a set of tubular control arms with solid mounted heims not allowing any forward and backward movement in the control arm. PM me if your interested I could probably have a set made for you.
 
Some pictures I had from last week that I wasn't able to get up until now...

New oil pump, which I disassembled and put assembly lube on.
oilpumpnew1.jpg

oilpumpnew2.jpg

oilpumpnew4.jpg

oilpumpnew3.jpg

oilpumpfinal.jpg
 
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