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#49's new powerplant has arrived, let the build begin

It's the aftermarket stant cap has the lower profile to clear the hood.

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Finally... bolted on the UIM, finished up the vacuum lines (decided to hold off on the vacuum pump as I can't seem to find a good home for it). I'm quite happy with how the HKS EVC vacuum ports ended up. I was able to route the lines up through the fender side and through the header panel. I ended up having to braze a vacuum port onto my custom inlet pipe to provide a signal port for the HKS boost controller. However it worked out pretty decent. I ended up using some of the stainless steel line I had left over from doing the return fuel line.

Now my question is how did everyone else run their intake pipe for the turbo through the fender. I didn't have to cut away any more of the opening, but I feel like it's going to be awful close to the fender and bumper if I leave it as is.

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While its all useful stuff, I would hate to have to work in that engine bay. Otherwise keep up the good work man! Its a slow process but your not cutting any corners, that takes time.
 
i would definitely move that maf closer to the tb. that large bend before the maf will skew maf values alot, which causes alot of problems tuning
 
The MAF position is fixed by the NPG kit. Many people have been able to tune with its placement. So I am not worried.

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...Now my question is how did everyone else run their intake pipe for the turbo through the fender. I didn't have to cut away any more of the opening, but I feel like it's going to be awful close to the fender and bumper if I leave it as is.

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Going by your pic, u're gonna need a smaller angle for it to fit. Simply disconnect the intake tube at the coupling where it meets the MAF and roll the pipe upwards. The filter will eventually sit inside the bumper, so you'll need to move the pipe upwards. Makes sense?

i would definitely move that maf closer to the tb. that large bend before the maf will skew maf values alot, which causes alot of problems tuning

Nah. Most of our turbo'd cars are set up that way. No qualms...
 
Going by your pic, u're gonna need a smaller angle for it to fit. Simply disconnect the intake tube at the coupling where it meets the MAF and roll the pipe upwards. The filter will eventually sit inside the bumper, so you'll need to move the pipe upwards. Makes sense?

It does. However the tube isn't tightened in the coupler. As it is rotating the tub up it contacts the header panel, specifically, right where the fender bolts to it. You can see it in the pic.

I don't suppose anyone has pics of their installation of this tube?

With the vacuum lines wrapped up I have turned my attention to getting the DSS axles installed. In the process I found the bushings on my control arms were shot and the ball joint boots had cracked leaking grease. So no I'm contemplating building my own tubular 4 bolt LCA's or just buying some cheap eBay control arms to get me going in the mean time (LINK. I also need to get myself a new set of wheel bearings to ge the DSS hubs installed. I've bought SKF bearings in the past, but it seems like everyone is using Timken? Any reason for this?

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running doesnt mean its running right. but thats just me, im a perfectionist

everyone uses timken cuz they are wildly available. theyre not bad. also i would highly recommend not getting ebay LCAs. they havent lasted me more then a year. moog brand is the only thing id ever recommend now
 
It does. However the tube isn't tightened in the coupler. As it is rotating the tub up it contacts the header panel, specifically, right where the fender bolts to it. You can see it in the pic.

I don't suppose anyone has pics of their installation of this tube?

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Oh I see why it's having a hard time fitting... The tube is too far up front in the hole created in the fender. Mine isn't nearly as nice looking as yours, but the hole is further back towards the fender well, allowing the angle to be just right. All you might have to do is to reduce the length of your pipe instead. Oh and mine hits the header panel as well. Once you attach the intake filter, it should sit right below the header panel & inside the bumper. And as for those using Timken, it's probably a name recognition thing.
 
Oh I see why it's having a hard time fitting... The tube is too far up front in the hole created in the fender. Mine isn't nearly as nice looking as yours, but the hole is further back towards the fender well, allowing the angle to be just right. All you might have to do is to reduce the length of your pipe instead. Oh and mine hits the header panel as well. Once you attach the intake filter, it should sit right below the header panel & inside the bumper. And as for those using Timken, it's probably a name recognition thing.

The hole looks nice partially because I didn't cut it ;) That is the factory opening for the duct that feeds the SVT filter box.

As for the bearing I've used the SKF FW177 bearings in the past. However when I took them out this time around (maybe had 6000 miles on them) the hubs had way to much play in them. Typically I've never had any problems with them. Looking at the Timken part it would appear that everyone uses them as all of the other bearing companies are calling out the same part number as Timken. Either that or they are all using the same Chinese bearing. Napa's brand is just a rebranded SKF bearing as well. So I'm just trying to figure out where I should go with it.
 
moog brand is the only thing id ever recommend now

Moog doesn't offer a four bolt LCA.

EDIT: Well Moog's website doesn't show it. I guess there are part numbers out there (K80387, K80388), but they do not show up as valid numbers on Moog's site.

EDIT 2: Apparently Moog's international site doesn't show it, but it did show up on the Federal-Mogual/Moog site. Weird...
 
Ah i see... I've had my car modified for so long that many times i forget what's on a stock svt. Nevertheless, that's the problem. You need to widen that hole.

I seemed to remember people cutting that opening. However I figured the piping wasn't laying out well for them and they were forced to cut it. I had hoped that Joey had designed his piping such that no cutting was required for that tube.

That said I wonder if I could still make it work without cutting it. perhaps cutting the tube and putting a bend in there. Although I'm not sure where the filter was supposed to end up, which was why I was hoping for a picture somewhere.
 
I seemed to remember people cutting that opening. However I figured the piping wasn't laying out well for them and they were forced to cut it. I had hoped that Joey had designed his piping such that no cutting was required for that tube.

That said I wonder if I could still make it work without cutting it. perhaps cutting the tube and putting a bend in there. Although I'm not sure where the filter was supposed to end up, which was why I was hoping for a picture somewhere.

I'll get you a pic. Hold on...
 
Here you go. I put some duct tape around the pipe so it doesn't get all scratched up by the newly cut hole edges. This is how it should sit finally. As you can see, the pipe is about 3-4 inches further back than where yours sits.

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Oh i see what happened now... You moved your fuse box. Mine remained at the stock location. If you reorient your box as stock, all you'd have to do is simply get the pipe to go around it as you can see i did with mine.

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I found the bushings on my control arms were shot and the ball joint boots had cracked leaking grease. So no I'm contemplating building my own tubular 4 bolt LCA's or just buying some cheap eBay control arms to get me going in the mean time

pleeeeeeez make some ' to die for ' 4 bolt arms .....G. :laugh:
 
pleeeeeeez make some ' to die for ' 4 bolt arms .....G. :laugh:

LOL. I tore one LCA apart tonight. Did some brainstorming over the phone with one of my brothers. I have a badass design in my mind. Will be modeling it up and building a set of prototypes soon. Stay tuned ;) I may need someone to try them out for me to ensure they fit-up nicely on someone else's car too.
 
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