IRingTwyce
I ROCK at bumper cars!
Reminds me of a Harlequin Golf.
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SVT dies to save pre98 SE**build thread**
- Thread starter 96contourSE
- Start date
Reminds me of a Harlequin Golf.
michael.lavander
CEG'er
Regarding the SVT:
1322
1FAFP68G0XK155744
1999
Silver/blue
Built - 3/2/99
Sold - 3/8/99
SUNSET AUTO CO INC
11700 GRAVOIS RD
ST LOUIS MO
CD PLAYER
Probably a special order car with build/sold being so close...and KCAP is pretty close.
1322
1FAFP68G0XK155744
1999
Silver/blue
Built - 3/2/99
Sold - 3/8/99
SUNSET AUTO CO INC
11700 GRAVOIS RD
ST LOUIS MO
CD PLAYER
Probably a special order car with build/sold being so close...and KCAP is pretty close.
enduro
CEG'er
To the OP
Looks like the SVT door was knauberized are you gonna do the others to match?
Wouldn't it have been cheaper/easier to paint all the newer body parts first before installing them?
Looks like the SVT door was knauberized are you gonna do the others to match?
Wouldn't it have been cheaper/easier to paint all the newer body parts first before installing them?
96contourSE
CEG'er
Yep, and its going to get worse. I have a blue and red “2 tone” side skirt for the driver’s side. Its in better shape then the SF skirt that’s on the car now.
Louie
96contourSE
CEG'er
THANKS for the info.....good to have. Looks like this SVT never left St. Louis till now. I have temporally added this SVT to the “all SVT’s go to heaven” thread. If its completely parted out and junked I will update.
96contourSE
CEG'er
Yes the door ding things will be coming off on all the doors. As far as the repaint, yes it would be easier to paint the parts off the car. And I plan on that. But I wanted to get it all together first and work out any problems before I paint the car. I plane on removing all the doors, side skirts and bumpers for the paint job.
Louie
96contourSE
CEG'er
SVT strut and spring swap to SE
SVT strut and spring swap to SE
And now for an update. Sorry, not much. I fixed the license plate dual lights. They needed to be soldered and new lights. Worked on getting the SVT gauges accurate. I hope to swap over the SVT intake this weekend, maybe the SVT brakes, struts and Eibach lowering spring. If the bolts cooperate, maybe the SVT exhaust.
I did receive a set of SVT side skirts that structurally are in real good shape, almost perfect. Only one problem, they have an inch of old paint on them and its all flaking of the plastic skirt.
Question, what’s the best way to clear all that thick old paint off the plastic side skirts?? Sand blaster is ready to go….if it were that easy!
Also, I need to swap springs and struts from the SVT to my SE. Is this a un-bolt and re-bolt job? Or do I need to rent a spring compressor? Looks like if I leave the spring with the strut, it will swap completely over as one unit??
Thanks!
Louie
SVT strut and spring swap to SE
And now for an update. Sorry, not much. I fixed the license plate dual lights. They needed to be soldered and new lights. Worked on getting the SVT gauges accurate. I hope to swap over the SVT intake this weekend, maybe the SVT brakes, struts and Eibach lowering spring. If the bolts cooperate, maybe the SVT exhaust.
I did receive a set of SVT side skirts that structurally are in real good shape, almost perfect. Only one problem, they have an inch of old paint on them and its all flaking of the plastic skirt.
Question, what’s the best way to clear all that thick old paint off the plastic side skirts?? Sand blaster is ready to go….if it were that easy!
Also, I need to swap springs and struts from the SVT to my SE. Is this a un-bolt and re-bolt job? Or do I need to rent a spring compressor? Looks like if I leave the spring with the strut, it will swap completely over as one unit??
Thanks!
Louie
96contourSE
CEG'er
Thanks!!! Thats going to make it much easier.
Now I need the 2 bolts that hold the converter to the y pipe. The springs are good as well as the pines. I am going to search here or if someone knows, just post here. Looking for someplace to get the bolts other than the dealer.
Louie
IRingTwyce
I ROCK at bumper cars!
Personally, I think you should stick with the Harlequin theme. Repaint all the parts their original colors. 1) It hasn't been done (intentionally) before. 2) It would be one of those things that only a few people know the reference and can appreciate it. 3) Why the hell not?
:nonono::nonono::crazy::crazy:Personally, I think you should stick with the Harlequin theme. Repaint all the parts their original colors. 1) It hasn't been done (intentionally) before. 2) It would be one of those things that only a few people know the reference and can appreciate it. 3) Why the hell not?
IRingTwyce
I ROCK at bumper cars!
96contourSE
CEG'er
Advanced Auto/O'Rilley/Auto Zone NO 2-bolt flange bolts
Advanced Auto/O'Rilley/Auto Zone NO 2-bolt flange bolts
NO luck at all on the 2-bolt flange bolts. The ones with the springs. Tried Advanced Auto, O'Rilley and Auto Zone.
The good news is I returned the Standard Contour rotors that were on my SVT back to Advanced Auto. They swapped them out for new SVT rotors!! So brakes will be ready to go on today BUT the exhaust may have to wait till I can get to a dealer for the flange bolts.
This thread will get boring without photos so I will update with some pictures after this weekend.
Advanced Auto/O'Rilley/Auto Zone NO 2-bolt flange bolts
NO luck at all on the 2-bolt flange bolts. The ones with the springs. Tried Advanced Auto, O'Rilley and Auto Zone.
The good news is I returned the Standard Contour rotors that were on my SVT back to Advanced Auto. They swapped them out for new SVT rotors!! So brakes will be ready to go on today BUT the exhaust may have to wait till I can get to a dealer for the flange bolts.
This thread will get boring without photos so I will update with some pictures after this weekend.
striker2
Official CEG Vendor
I read somewhere that in the Help! section you could find exhaust bolts and springs for a chrysler that worked.
96contourSE
CEG'er
I have seen that too. But nothing even looks close to the bolt, spring and pin set up from the SVT at the stores I have been to. I was looking in the "help" section.
From BrApple "go to a local parts store that sells the Help brand parts. get exhaust bolts for a Chrysler. it will be a bolt, tapered spring, nut w/plate. works great."
Well I found some for Chrysler but they did not have the pin for the up down movement of the dounut. So this Chrysler one will work even though it not really the same design?
Crap!! 3pm and I have nothing done on it today!!!
From BrApple "go to a local parts store that sells the Help brand parts. get exhaust bolts for a Chrysler. it will be a bolt, tapered spring, nut w/plate. works great."
Well I found some for Chrysler but they did not have the pin for the up down movement of the dounut. So this Chrysler one will work even though it not really the same design?
Crap!! 3pm and I have nothing done on it today!!!
96contourSE
CEG'er
This car was in sad but good shape if that makes any sense?? It’s going to need a lot of the boring stuff done to it. I don’t think there will be one square inch of the car I have not done something to when I am finished with it.
Its looking more like a restoration more than a build up. I am replacing things like the door hinges, truck locks, all 4 doors, bumpers, glass, dash, complete moon roof….you get the idea.
Most of the build is due to having a pretty decent SVT as a parts car. To be honest, it was looking like the SVT would be easer to fix than my own car for a while. But I am glad I did the Pre 98 thing!
To recap so far what I have done….
Pre 98 SVT front bumper test fit
SVT rear bumper test fit, sag needs raised up a bit
Both left doors and fender replaced and wired for pre 98
HVAC wiring fixed
Glass replaced
SVT E1 rims swapped onto SE w/ new Goodyear’s
SVT side skirts test fit
Pre 98 truck lighting fixed
Rear SE sway bar mount fixed
99 E1 SVT gauges working in Pre98 no problems
SVT intake installed
New cowl
Ford racing wires and new plugs
New battery
What s about to go on within the next few weeks….
NEW SVT front rotors with new calipers and pads
NEW rear rotors with new calipers and pads
New e brake cables
New twin cooling fans
SVT exhaust
Eibach Springs and new struts
Power antenna
Audi marker lights
Continue to strip parts from the SVT for the SE!!
You’re more than welcome to come down and check it out. Maybe get some parts from the SVT I don’t need….
Louie
96contourSE
CEG'er
One step forward TWO BACK!
One step forward TWO BACK!
First thing on this go around was to dig out from the snow so I could get the SE into the toasty warm, 68-degree, garage.
Making progress slowly in my free time. The Brakes are done for the most part. Calipers were painted red, new SVT Rotors swapped in with the SVT caliper brackets. Also new pads all the way around. Same for the rear except I replaced the E brake cables as well.
Yes the E brake boot was no good. These cables came from the SVT
Removed the SVT gauges to fix a loose light, its all back together again.
Front rims back on and was moving to the rear brakes to finish up and……….
Tightening up the brake lines and pop, there goes the hard brake line. Good thing I guess, it is rusted bad. Better now than driving 75MPH!! Trying to put a good spin on it.
Picture of rusted rear brake line on the 1996. The rust hole is towards the top in the photo.
NOW for the big question (#1)…..Looks like the fuel tank AND the sub frame have to drop out for the replacement brake lines. Any way around this? Looks like you could run new lines an alternate way other than up on top of the sub frame. Saving the need and all the work of dropping the fuel tank and sub frame. Where the lines meet up at the front of the tank is rusty to. The lines running to the front of the car look good.
OR Question (#2) I am going to swap out the complete struts and lowering springs from the SVT parts car. I was thinking I could just drop the SVT sub frame as a unit and bring it over to the SE. The SE sub frame is fairly rusty. And at the same time fix the hard lines for the brakes. Now that’s a lot of work!! I am leaning towards finding an alternate way to run new lines for now….
One step forward TWO BACK!
First thing on this go around was to dig out from the snow so I could get the SE into the toasty warm, 68-degree, garage.
Making progress slowly in my free time. The Brakes are done for the most part. Calipers were painted red, new SVT Rotors swapped in with the SVT caliper brackets. Also new pads all the way around. Same for the rear except I replaced the E brake cables as well.
Yes the E brake boot was no good. These cables came from the SVT
Removed the SVT gauges to fix a loose light, its all back together again.
Front rims back on and was moving to the rear brakes to finish up and……….
Tightening up the brake lines and pop, there goes the hard brake line. Good thing I guess, it is rusted bad. Better now than driving 75MPH!! Trying to put a good spin on it.
Picture of rusted rear brake line on the 1996. The rust hole is towards the top in the photo.
NOW for the big question (#1)…..Looks like the fuel tank AND the sub frame have to drop out for the replacement brake lines. Any way around this? Looks like you could run new lines an alternate way other than up on top of the sub frame. Saving the need and all the work of dropping the fuel tank and sub frame. Where the lines meet up at the front of the tank is rusty to. The lines running to the front of the car look good.
OR Question (#2) I am going to swap out the complete struts and lowering springs from the SVT parts car. I was thinking I could just drop the SVT sub frame as a unit and bring it over to the SE. The SE sub frame is fairly rusty. And at the same time fix the hard lines for the brakes. Now that’s a lot of work!! I am leaning towards finding an alternate way to run new lines for now….
striker2
Official CEG Vendor
i had to do the same thing on my 97. i ended up dropping the tank because i didnt want to deal with the subframe. from there i fed them between the body and the subframe and then bent them in place. it sucked. also, reinstalling the tank is a PITA. looking back, i probably should have just dropped the subframe and then i could have reinforced the sway bar mounts at the same time.