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Chocking when accelerates

polackSVT

CEG'er
Joined
Mar 21, 2005
Messages
157
Location
Harrison Twp, MI
Hey, I have two main problems.

1.When I want to put the pedal to the metal it chokes and slightly vibrates and it sounds deeper.
2.The car stalls sometimes as I turn around

It's a 99 csvt with 150k on it. Any input will be appreciated, thanks.
 
I replaced the plugs and wires not to long time ago. I had a problem a month ago with one of them. It popped up and I had a guy retapped the tread. I checked that spark plug and it's sitting pretty tight. I took the car for a spin after I wrote this post, and must say that the vibrating is gone, but the car feels weaker and and loses the kick around 4000rpm(I saw a post on the same kinda problem) Could it be Intake Manifold Runner Control?
 
...1.When I want to put the pedal to the metal it chokes and slightly vibrates and it sounds deeper.
2.The car stalls sometimes as I turn around

It's a 99 csvt with 150k on it. Any input will be appreciated, thanks.
What are the CEL codes? Stalling when turning could be due to a massive vacuum loss or bad fuel pump. And yes, it could be the IMRC but we should know better after you post the CEL codes.
 
I also have a 99 CSVT and this has just come up recently with my car, and this sounds almost the same. The thing with my car is that it feels really sluggish at lower rpms, and when i go to give it any gas it chokes and sputters and will almost die. so i left off the gas and then it idle really low, about 500 or lower and it feels as if the engine wants to rock it self free from the car. it Begins to the shake pretty noticably, more than a big block v8. now this happens when ever i have been driving for a bit sometimes, other times its right when i start it up. and this will sometimes not happen at all for a couple of days... So im kinda lost, i was thinking fuel pump maybe, or the intake manifold but im not sure. Any thoughts?:shrug:
 
I got the codes : 174 and 171. I replaced the 02 sensor (upstream) along with the idle air control valve, spark plugs and wires and the fuel pump over a year ago. I've put approximately 20k on the car since then. Here's my problem again - the car jerks/chokes as I accelerate rapidly. It's not as bad as I accelerate gradually. I sprayed the intake area and hoses with a flammable liquid. Nothing. I guess I don't have a vacuum leak. Could it be the maf sensor? I Check the sensor and it's clean.
 
sounds like a vaccum leak. mine does that when i turn. one of my UIM bolts is broken off. i need to get paid so i can have beans send me the LIM he has :D
 
I was looking for a leak yesterday, sprayed the whole engine bay with no success. These two codes are very common and many things can cause the problem. So frustrating. I guess I have take the car to a shop.
 
Here's my problem again - the car jerks/chokes as I accelerate rapidly. It's not as bad as I accelerate gradually.

Ordinarily, if it happens only at LOWER rpm's (around 2000-3000, better once it gets past that) those are symptoms of an ignition problem. Plugs/wires/coil pack.
 
Yesterday, I poured a whole bottle of stuff to clean the injectors into the gas tank. I started up the car, stepped on it, got on a freeway. I notice a slight improvement but the check engine light starts to flash every time I accelerate more aggressively. It rather can't be the wires/coils/plugs because they are pretty new. It could be a fuel pump tho. Thanks
 
Have you noticed if the problem seems worse when your low on gas? If so, you might want to further investigate the fuel pump. I had a similar problem with my csvt shortly after I bought it. Ford swapped out the fuel pump and that solved the problem. Having said that, I don't recall my CEL blinking so you might still have other problems. Good luck
 
flashing cel is a miss-fire. points right to the plugs/wires, etc.


did you check the gap before installing the new plugs? I don't care if they came pre-gapped they are most likely wrong and should always be checked.
 
Hmmm, maybe the guy that retapped the thread on the spark plug cylinder( or whatever you call it) did a bad job, but I checked the plug and it's sitting pretty tight. Ok, if I had a problem with the spark plugs wouldn't I get another code besides the 174 and 171?
 
Hmmm, maybe the guy that retapped the thread on the spark plug cylinder( or whatever you call it) did a bad job, but I checked the plug and it's sitting pretty tight. Ok, if I had a problem with the spark plugs wouldn't I get another code besides the 174 and 171?

type of plugs used can also be a pretty good point of concern, the duratec really should only get motorcraft or Autolite plugs. Also, I know someone who had a similar issue on his 97 (minus the stalling), he had done a UIM/LIM rebuild, afterwards had misfire issues, swaped the plugs, didnt change anything. Turned out he had yanked on one of the plug wires and messed it up, replacing the plug wires made it run like brand new.

Misfiring almost always points towards a spark plug or plug wire issue.
 
Yep flashing CEL is misfire. I'd pull ALL the plugs and check the gap then also check the resistance on all the wires - they should all be about the same resistance, but ofcourse the longer ones will have SLIGHTLY higher ressitance than those that are shorter. If all that checks out then next step is fuel filter and pump.
 
It rather can't be the wires/coils/plugs because they are pretty new.

Doesn't matter. If you had any spark arcing in the past, both the plug and wire on the cylinder(s) in question are most certainly bad. That's why you can't just do plugs this weekend and wires next weekend, because the week (or even DAY) of driving in between can easily destroy whatever you just installed. Everything should be fresh, to eliminate this potential problem.
 
test the coil

test the coil

How i can make a test to the coil pack?

The coil on the 2.5 is three individual coil basically. Remove the two plug wires that are on the same bank. Check and note the resistance, replace the wires and continue onto the second and third set. If one set has noticably lower / higher resitance your coil is shot. When replacing make sure the ground strap is replaced or other problems will crop up. Dan.
 
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