#49's new powerplant has arrived, let the build begin

[CSVT#49]

Honestly, since you are turboing it I wouldn't lose too much sleep over the race cams. They'd be nice but your motor will be 500whp capable with the stockers... Plus then you retain the stock driveability when your foot is not into the boost.

True. But with my HKS EVC controller I will have two maps, one for race and one for street. There's no need for 500whp on the street. I'll be fine with 350whp Plus I'm only going to be running low boost down low so it won't be to crazy with stop and go.

[biminiLX]

Custom turbo cams can make more power per psi boost. Generic 'race' cames may not help enough for the effort if they were designed for higher rpm NA use. With the turbo you probably won't need over 7000rpm and they stock cams may be better for overall/average power. My turbo cam looked nothing like my NA cam in my 427/7.0L motor.
-J

[Swazo]

So the guy who purchased Keyser's car (Greg aka- The Ford Guy?) was having problems with ARP head studs stretching and the head would lift under higher boost. What are you going to do different?

I asked this question a year or two ago in the FI forum. I've been more focused on LSx engines the last few years, and one thing they do in this case is to drill the heads and drill/tap the block to accept thicker studs.

With all this kick ass effort, I would hate to see you suffer from something like this.

[CSVT#49]

So the guy who purchased Keyser's car (Greg aka- The Ford Guy?) was having problems with ARP head studs stretching and the head would lift under higher boost. What are you going to do different?

I asked this question a year or two ago in the FI forum. I've been more focused on LSx engines the last few years, and one thing they do in this case is to drill the heads and drill/tap the block to accept thicker studs.

With all this kick ass effort, I would hate to see you suffer from something like this.

Interesting. I have given thought to drilling out the heads and tapping them to accept larger studs, but I haven't decided on that quite yet... however that decision needs to be made soon. On that note how much boost pressure was he running? I don't think I'm going to pushing anything beyond 18-20psi.

[ScottyDsntKnow]

Hey while the thing is out you might as well. FWIW, on 5.0L Mustangs we run 7/16" stock and that ARP stuff is more than enough. Then again, iron blocks and all...

[biminiLX]

Actually SBFs can have head lifting/HG issues with the 10 bolts/head sealing, especially thin deck factory heads.
ARP studs and a quality MLS/Cometic gasket should do the trick Mike.
-J

[ScottyDsntKnow]

Well yeah they can blow with boost but it isn't because the head lifted it is because they need more bolts spaced closer together lol. Most guys just get the heads/block decked and use cometics or get an o-ring job.

Back on topic, you might want to look into getting your heads o-ringed if they offer o-ringed HGs for our cars. Failing that cometics will work, obviously everything needs to be machined to go together perfectly. Don't know how many threads I've seen over at the corral where someone posts something like "cometics leaking wth?!" and it turns out the guy just installed them on a weekend HCI lol.

[CSVT#49]

Something is missing...














oh snap there it is...



We got the motor out in about 35min. No issues what so ever, which was unbelievable.

[4GTNSVT]

Mike,

Its coming along great i cant wait to see this thing done!

[CSVT#49]

Mike,

Its coming along great i cant wait to see this thing done!

Thanks. You and me both