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Slight engine tick.

Sick2000Svt

CEG'er
Joined
May 28, 2008
Messages
127
I changed my oil yesterday i used mobil 1 full syn. 10w 30. and today i noticed a slight tick it sounds like its the front head but its not really loud it does get faster when the motor turns up slightly but it disappears when its reved up more.its only noticable at idle really and to about 2500cause the motor is louder i think mabye. i have no power loss or any other problems im not sure what oil the dealer put in the car this is the 1st time i have had to change it. Just wondering if anyone has had this problem. i have searched engine ticks and nothing sounds like my motor its not loud at all. might have to rush the 3.0L if it is leading up to something bad. thanks for the help :help:
 
Need to isolate the tick. Use a "poor man's stetoscope" (screwdriver metal end on engine or accessory and wooden end on ear) to check where the ticking is coming front. Be careful of moving belt and pulleys. What is the oil level?
 
oil level is fine it sounds like the first cyl. from passenger side on front head. do these motors pull rocker studs? or do they have them? havent seen the inside alot lol.
 
Show me where. Never ever seen anyone say that. Care to explain why it's better? Low-viscosity oils flow better than high-viscosity ones—the lighter-weight fluid is easier to pump and therefore circulates faster through the engine's various galleries. Low-viscosity oils also maintain a lower oil pressure, but the oil pump delivers a greater volume through the galleries than it would with thicker (higher-viscosity) oils. Heavier oils also tend to operate at higher temperatures because the oil pump has to work harder to force the lubricant through the system. Oil does not compress readily, so the added pressure increases the temperature. In the end, high-viscosity oils maintain a higher oil pressure, but the pump delivers a smaller volume of oil. With the bearing issues this car has I'll take a higher volume of oil. CEG has always stated to run 5W. That means in summer and winter. This isn't some old Chevy 350.
 
Show me where. Never ever seen anyone say that.
todras is (almost) absolutely correct. While some has started using 5W-20, most stick with 5W-30 (the original spec). There are a few who use 10W-30.
 
lol Never said it was a 350 go to search and type in oil look at the threads and you tell me what you see...10w 30 10w 40 i never said it was wrong i was asking for help..... not because i already Knew what to do... if you think its the oil ill go buy some right now i just didnt know if it was a warning sign for something gettin ready to fail.... lol you must need a vacation. i know in my dads Zx2 it calls for 5w 20 and it ticks like crazy with that oil he put in 10w 30 and it doesnt tick at all so i dont know what to do lol..
 
The camshaft tolerances are too tight to run thick oil. I would go no thicker than 5w30.

Otherwise the journals will start galling eventually.
 
Some of this is pretty funny. I run STRAIGHT 30W in mine and when engine pulled down once @ 100K cam journals were perfect, polished only. The factory low vis oil spec is simply to save a puny amount of gas mileage by friction decrease. I'd rather have the thicker oil, single vis has (or did have) more zinc for anti-wear, thinking that may not be true anymore since EPA demanded reduction in zinc because of phosphate emissions. Single vis oil is actually the stated weight, but multi vis always starts as the lower number weight, then additives make it act like heavier weight. The additives are what break down over time. I change oil/filter at 6000 miles, and my cars last FOREVER. I'm not fond of the idea of running 5W oil in my expensive car. What keeps bearings from dying is PRESSURE, both film thickness and output pressure themselves affect that. The oil pump doesn't give a crap, it's a positive displacement pump and will pump exactly the same amount heavy or light weight. The bypass may go off a little bit different but that's about it. The added friction from heavier weight DOES increase temperature, but I dare someone to do an oil temp test and prove that the difference between two different weights is more than a NEGLEGIBLE amount of temp. That alone will NEVER hurt a motor. Single vis used to be cheaper oil too, just like diesel fuel, you see where that's gone. Have heard of some early zetecs sticking valves from owner using heavier than spec oil, I think Ford just made guides a little too tight and blamed owners later when problems showed up. I have never personally experienced that problem. Don't know about the six, but zetec cam journal clearances range from .001-.003", 30W oil has been used in that clearance range with great success since at least the 1930's.
 
Some of this is pretty funny. I run STRAIGHT 30W in mine and when engine pulled down once @ 100K cam journals were perfect, polished only. The factory low vis oil spec is simply to save a puny amount of gas mileage by friction decrease. I'd rather have the thicker oil, single vis has (or did have) more zinc for anti-wear, thinking that may not be true anymore since EPA demanded reduction in zinc because of phosphate emissions. Single vis oil is actually the stated weight, but multi vis always starts as the lower number weight, then additives make it act like heavier weight. The additives are what break down over time. I change oil/filter at 6000 miles, and my cars last FOREVER. I'm not fond of the idea of running 5W oil in my expensive car. What keeps bearings from dying is PRESSURE, both film thickness and output pressure themselves affect that. The oil pump doesn't give a crap, it's a positive displacement pump and will pump exactly the same amount heavy or light weight. The bypass may go off a little bit different but that's about it. The added friction from heavier weight DOES increase temperature, but I dare someone to do an oil temp test and prove that the difference between two different weights is more than a NEGLEGIBLE amount of temp. That alone will NEVER hurt a motor. Single vis used to be cheaper oil too, just like diesel fuel, you see where that's gone. Have heard of some early zetecs sticking valves from owner using heavier than spec oil, I think Ford just made guides a little too tight and blamed owners later when problems showed up. I have never personally experienced that problem. Don't know about the six, but zetec cam journal clearances range from .001-.003", 30W oil has been used in that clearance range with great success since at least the 1930's.

You got lucky, and you are correct about the negative changes in the oil makeup due to to EPA restrictions. Only race oil has bypass the restrictions.

The true cam tolerance is .001. at .003 you would bleed off so much oil pressure, you would have to run thick oil to compensate. You may have simply "polished" the cam jourals to that point. The journals in brand new heads are not so polished. Nothing in that motor should clearance out to .003. Even the main and rod bearings don't go out that far.

Ford specs out a maximum of .0029 as as rebuild spec, not a new engine spec. that's just to keep from trashing so many heads under warranty.
 
So I bought the car from the guy who started the thread. He was selling the car because he thought it spun a bearing and the engine was ticking. The FS thread is locked so I figured I'd bump his old thread and let everyone know what the ticking was....

Turns out spark plug on bank 5 was loose. I tightened it up after getting the car yesterday and the ticking is gone. LOL....

Also had a broken trans mount, chipped windshield, and a slight third gear grind. I fixed the mount yesterday and I'll be popping a new transmission in shortly. This will be a great car for someone.
 
taking a chance pays off, nice buy!

Too bad the transmission wasn't in better shape then it would have really been a great deal. I have a buyer for it already which is pretty sweet. I started pulling the transmission last night but didn't get a chance to finish because my 11 month old daughter went to bed at 8 and her room is above the garage. :(
 
So I bought the car from the guy who started the thread. He was selling the car because he thought it spun a bearing and the engine was ticking. The FS thread is locked so I figured I'd bump his old thread and let everyone know what the ticking was....

:shrug: This thread started June-2008 with OP already having engine tick. Then FS thread started 10 months later stating engine noise started only 2 weeks prior. Before that everything was ok.
:shrug:

but anyway good pick-up BlackCoog, you guys save many SVT's and keep them from the JY.
 
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