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serp. belt replacement ?

f-rice

New CEG'er
Joined
Apr 12, 2003
Messages
22
Location
Charles Town , WV
I need to replace my serp. belt , does anyone have any tricks ? Go at it from the top or bottom ? anything I can remove to make the job easier?
 
Go at it from the top. No need to remove anything. I used a hinged ratchet with a 1 foot piece of pipe on the end of the handle to give me more torque. A serpentine belt tool would make it easier. I also needed a second set of hands. The belt routing is on the strut tower so its idiot proof, or so i would think.
 
A second set of hands is a big help. Just do it in the parking lot at the parts store and borrow their serp belt tool while you're at it.
 
My serp belt tool hit the engine mount so I couldn't pull the tensioner all the way back. 3/8" socket worked on my old car but I dont have enough clearance on my new one to get it down to the hole.
Definitely do it from the top.
 
I remove the wheel and the splash shield. Use a 3/8 breaker bar from underneath. Can't fit a 3/8 ratchet in there.
 
I remove the wheel and the splash shield. Use a 3/8 breaker bar from underneath. Can't fit a 3/8 ratchet in there.
Ive replaced it from both the top and the bottom. the bottom is easier to do by yourself, but obviously it requires you to remove the parts Todras listed. and I can get my 3/8" ratchet in there.
 
If you have a 3/8" flex head ratchet like this you should have no problem doing it from the top. i used a 1' pipe on the handle for more leverage.

i used a flat head screw driver to guide it into the hole on the tensioner. and then to remove it from the hole.
CornwellTool_38FlexHeadRatchet_PTEN_1.png
 
Advance Auto, or whatever store you have there, "borrow" their serp-belt tool (tensioner/breaker bar/whatever). It will hit the engine mount, and so it won't loosen up quite enough for an easy removal, but it's still enough to do this with 1 person.

Lean over the top, under the hood. Just yank off the old one (a flathead screwdriver may help). Lay on the new belt, starting with the very bottom pulleys, then guiding the belt upwards. The new belt will fit a LOT tighter than your old belt. On the very top pulley, I couldn't quite get it with my hands, and pulling up, so I just used the same flathead screwdriver to CAREFULLY lever the belt up and onto the top pulley kinda like the putting a tire on a rim with crowbars. Then just ease it along 1 groove at a time until it fits properly over the top pulley.

The new serp belt had crosswise groves built into it, along with the lengthwise teeth. I dunno, supposed to be better design. Sounds cooler when running.
 
When doing my 3L I just went out and bought one. Napa had the only one that does it all. I can't remember the price but I have used it at least a dozen times since I bought it. Comes in a nice case too.

25002.jpg
 
Advance Auto, or whatever store you have there, "borrow" their serp-belt tool (tensioner/breaker bar/whatever). It will hit the engine mount, and so it won't loosen up quite enough for an easy removal, but it's still enough to do this with 1 person.

Lean over the top, under the hood. Just yank off the old one (a flathead screwdriver may help). Lay on the new belt, starting with the very bottom pulleys, then guiding the belt upwards. The new belt will fit a LOT tighter than your old belt. On the very top pulley, I couldn't quite get it with my hands, and pulling up, so I just used the same flathead screwdriver to CAREFULLY lever the belt up and onto the top pulley kinda like the putting a tire on a rim with crowbars. Then just ease it along 1 groove at a time until it fits properly over the top pulley.

The new serp belt had crosswise groves built into it, along with the lengthwise teeth. I dunno, supposed to be better design. Sounds cooler when running.

I know this is an old thread, but it's the only one where someone's done it without the belt tool. Rather than a screwdriver, I saw a Youtube video where a rag was used. Just get it under the belt and pull up. Seems to be a workable solution.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0W4VgrYLhIo
 
I just did mine a couple weeks ago. My little 3/8" breaker bar was too thick for the tensioner, so I tried different ratchets from my box until I found one thin enough to fit. You don't get a lot of leverage, so you have to push pretty hard, but it worked fine. There's no room in there for a cheater pipe either. I just threaded it on the pulleys via the sticker. Last one I did before that was on my 4.6L Crown Vic...you use a 1/2" breaker bar and it takes 30 seconds lol.
 
I managed to slip a 3/8" breaker bar in the tensioner, but only by putting the square end at a 45 degree angle and jimmying it in. I did most of the belt threading from the top but had to get underneath for one pulley.
 
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